Tag: Bavaria

• Leavenworth, Washington

  Posted at 1:38 PM by Brittany, on June 7, 2021

  It’s no secret I miss Bavaria. Sure – I miss the landscape, and the ease of access to endless adventures, but I also have a soul tie to this state. I worked through a lot of self discovery and growth during my time living in Bavaria, and Germany as a whole is more than just a travel destination for me. I don’t think anyone truly understands how moving to another country changes you unless they’ve experienced it for themselves.

  Needless to say, when a weekend trip to Leavenworth was suggested to me (aka the Bavaria of Washington) I said yes quicker than the blink of an eye.

  

  

  

  Upon arrival we snagged a coffee at the Bavarian themed Starbucks before having a sit by the river behind our hotel.

  

  

  I was immediately transported to the Loisach while sitting here, a river I spent so many hours biking next to, and I can’t describe how wholesome this moment felt for me. I often told people in Germany how similar Washington was to the landscape and climate of Bavaria, and Leavenworth really seals the deal with that.

  I could have sat by this river for hours, and that’s exactly what we did.

  

  

  After spending ample time by the river, and exploring a bit around town, it was time to check into the hotel. While perusing options for places to stay in Leavenworth, my initial instinct was an Air B&B. When I discovered most of the Air B&B’s were within the $200-$400 a night price range, I redirected my search. I don’t love staying in hotels, because I like having a kitchen to make my own meals, but after stumbling onto LOGE hotel I quickly made an exception.

  When you read a review that says: “if REI created a hotel”, you know you’re in for a treat.

  

  

  For starters, the staff at LOGE were all incredibly welcoming, friendly, upbeat, and I immediately envisioned myself working with them. The hotel cafe (which doubled as the front desk) was completely my speed, and I would happily pick up my barista apron to peddle lattes in Leavenworth all day. The ambiance of the lobby was adorable, and I immediately knew I was going to enjoy my stay.

  This hotel has the communal atmosphere of a hostel, but with the class and privacy of a hotel.

  The rooms come equipped with gear for guests to use (at no charge), and this gear can also be purchased if guests decide they like the product. What an excellent marketing technique. Our room had a hammock, headlamp, hats, a cooler, snacks, games, a Rumpl blanket, and more. If you’re a lover of the outdoors and appreciate more of a simplistic sleep environment, this is the hotel for you.

  

  

  Side note: I didn’t notice the hammock wasn’t locked into place, and I definitely face planted after attempting to climb into it. Thankfully it was over the bed.

  This hotel also had the nicest communal showers I have ever seen in all my years of travel. I paid more to have a private shower, but had I been alone I would have gone for the cheaper room and used these communal showers.

  

  Check in complete, it was time for an evening hike. When choosing hikes for this quick weekend getaway, I was mindful of a few things: time, location, popularity, and elevation. I wanted to experience the mountains, but I didn’t want hiking to suck up the entirety of the trip. I chose two relatively popular trails, but we hiked them during “off times” to ensure minimal human contact.

  First up: Icicle Ridge Trail – a five and a half mile round trip hike, with an elevation gain of 1870 feet. I haven’t don’t many hikes lately with elevation, and despite the fatigue I had the view at the top was well worth the climb. This trail is popular for its wildflowers, and it’s close proximity to the city center. We saw a total of around nine people the entire two hours it took to hike, and for a popular hike I would call that win.

  

  

  This hike knocked the life out of me and I was hopeful for a good nights sleep, but I had no such luck. Dehydration, too much sun exposure, and a room that was too hot made for a very poor nights sleep. Nothing a coffee can’t (temporarily) fix. After lying awake for hours, having a casual morning, we payed visit to Starbucks again around 0700 before walking through the city center in the early morning light.

  The day we arrived we walked around in the early afternoon, and the town was bustling with people. I adore waking up in a new city earlier than most to experience the town before it comes to life.

  

  

  

  What I love most about this city center is how authentic it feels. Traditional German towns are small, with a pedestrian only zone, filled with random shops, bakeries, eateries, and a park if you’re lucky. The small park in Leavenworth was adorable, and had me remising on all the summer nights I’d spent listening to Musik im Park (free park concerts) in Garmisch.

  

  Once the world started coming back to life, we packed up our things, checked out of our hotel, and headed on one more hike before making the trek back home. Hike number two had a similar name, but with a very different trail. Icicle Gorge Trail is a 4.5 mile loop with only 387′ elevation. This trail was about a 30 minute drive from the city, with some of the most beautiful driving views I have seen in a long time.

  The trail was very mild, a welcomed reprieve from the previous hike. Had I slept better I think I would have enjoyed myself more, but I was so unbelievably tired on this hike. Thankfully I was still able to appreciate the views, and I can see why this is an equally popular trail. Accessible for anyone, this trail hugs the river weaving in and out of tree covered woods to open fields.

  

  

  

  This hike took us equally as long to complete (granted we ran down most of the previous trail), despite being a mile shorter with little to no elevation. I was wrecked by the end of this hike, but I would do it all over again. I have become much more mindful of my physical activity as I have gotten older, something I have to do in order to keep my Sjogrens at bay, but sometimes the discomfort is worth the temporary joy. I no longer spiral when I feel a flare up coming, and I no longer avoid the things that cause them (except food, I try to avoid those triggers 90% of my days.)

  I cannot avoid life just to keep my body in its happy place.

  

  

  And just like that, the quick and somewhat last minute trip to Leavenworth had come to an end. I plan to revisit again this summer, hopefully with more hikes and more nostalgia. I had been to Leavenworth before, and I knew I would want to revisit after living in Bavaria, but I had no idea how connected I would feel to this tiny town this time around.

  Oh, but I do have one complaint…how the hell can you justify having ONE restaurant with half of a chicken on the menu, and sell it for $20. Absolutely erroneous.

  Gone are my days of eating half chickens, roasted Bavarian style, for €3.50.

  

  Q: Are there any towns you have visited that left you wanting more?

  

  | 31 Comments Tagged Bavaria, Hiking, Leavenworth, PNW, Travel, Washington

• One Month in America

  Posted at 7:10 AM by Brittany, on October 29, 2020

  I have been back in America for a little over a month now, and to say the transition was smooth like butter would be false. Physically my flight home was uneventful, I managed to weasel my way back into my home country unscathed during this chaotic pandemic, but emotionally I am not feeling whole.

  I left Germany a week earlier than planned due to an outbreak of Coronavirus at the hotel I was working. 20+ staff members tested positive, and after receiving a negative result I felt the need to get out. I have never been so thankful to be a recluse. (The spread occurred during a night of partying amongst my irresponsible peers.)

  I managed one last long bike ride before I left, something I wouldn’t realize how badly I needed until after I returned home.

  

  The most stressful part about moving, aside from the emotional turmoil, was deconstructing, packaging, and shipping my bike. I had wanted to attempt taking the bike apart on my own, but when I couldn’t remove the pedals (the easiest part) I began to panic.

  I contemplated leaving the bike, I have a tendency to quit when I get overwhelmed.

  By the grace of God my housing manager came to my rescue and not only helped me take it apart (he had to call for backup with the pedals), but he helped me box it and then drove me to the post office. In typical Brittany fashion I didn’t know how to handle this act of kindness.

  I continuously offered to pay him, and thanked him endlessly.

  

  There are many things I am not good at, and accepting help without some form of payment in return is one of them. I feel like a bother when someone goes out of their way to help me, and this was a good test for me to just accept the act of kindness.

  With the bike boxed and shipped I was able to enjoy my final day in Bavaria.

  

  

  I wish I could say leaving Garmisch was easy. I wish I could say coming home felt like walking into a warm hug, or drinking a cup of my favorite coffee, but it wasn’t and it didn’t. I am thankful and fortunate to be with my family right now, and I am so happy to see them, but my heart aches for a life in Bavaria.

  Leaving Germany was a hard decision. My job was not a good fit for me, the environment in which I was living was toxic, and being away from my family in the midst of the American chaos was hard. I knew deep down I needed to take a step back and reevaluate what was next for me.

  Now that I am back, the numbness that had slowly begun to develop within the last year has grown.

  

  I have been aware of the missing piece to my emotional puzzle for a while now, but I am still searching for it. I am taking each day as it comes and finding pockets of joy along the way. Biking was once my therapy, and this is what I miss the most about Bavaria. When my bike made it to America I nearly cried. Just like seeing an old friend.

  And to think I almost left her behind…

  

  Sadly the bike paths here are…well…non existent. I know there are some out there, but I am not finding anything comparable to Bavaria. I have accepted that biking here will be different, but my motivation to ride has been at an all time low. I currently live near endless roads filled with cars, something of a damper with regard to biking.

  Change is never easy, but we go through the motions nonetheless. I know how easy it is to fall into a slump, so I have been keeping myself busy in order to combat too much down time. All the while honoring my emotions – the good, the bad, and even the ugly.

  I have spent time with an old pal, a comfort comparable to biking. We walk, we talk, we hike, we do fall activities.

  

  

  

  I have spent time with family, we share meals, we do fall activities, we sit in silence with each other.

  

  

  I have spent time in the mountains, gone on walks with my sister, read books, and journaled my thoughts.

  

  

  I got a job, because despite the fact I had planned to just “be” for a minute upon my return, the American society will forever be embedded in my soul and I felt like a bum being back for a week without a job.

  These things keep me busy until I figure out what’s next. Or maybe this is what’s next. I don’t know. What I do know is the act of not knowing is normal. Accepting this is the first step to emotional freedom. I am here, I am well, I am blessed, and I am alive.

  

  I miss Germany everyday. Something about returning to my hometown always makes me feel a bit stagnant. It’s not that the town is terrible, I’ve just outgrown it. It’s not my town, but at this rate I don’t know if I really have “a town.” My town is wherever I happen to be at this moment in time.

  I will forever be thankful for my last six months in Germany. Without the shutdowns and restrictions I never would have biked as much as I did. I may be on a temporary biking break, but this will be a sport I carry with me for life. At the end of the day words cannot describe how happy I am to be away from the toxic work/living environment, and to be back with my cat.

  It’s not all sad news over here.

  Q: How are you holding up? I know we’re also still in a pandemic, which only adds to the emotional turmoil. We’re all in this together. 

  

  | 36 Comments Tagged Bavaria, Brittanys Life Abroad, Change, Fall

• Schloss Elmau und Das Kranzbach

  Posted at 5:00 AM by Brittany, on September 21, 2020

  A few months ago I rode my bike to the final town on my “must bike to” list, and during that adventure I discovered another area I wanted to bike to. I should know that a list like this is impossible to truly have an end, especially in an area like Bavaria. My energy was limited when I originally discovered this new location, so I tucked it into my brain archives for another day.

  Fast forward three months, while trying to decide where to bike on a day off, this location was revived from the archives.

  

  This beautiful building is called Schloss Elmau, “a magical sanctuary of the Bavarian alps”, and let me tell you…this place is indeed a magical sanctuary. I had heard of this resort and wellness center from some of my colleagues, but I had no idea what to expect.

  I needed a destination for my bike ride, and this seemed like a good fit. The ride to the resort climbs a decent hill, and I was a bit of a sweaty mess by the time I arrived. I thought for certain the people would notice how out of place I looked, but once I walked around the corner from the front of the building I was quickly sucked into another world.

  

  From the front of the resort I would have never guessed how vast the backside was. This location has seemingly endless land, and just when you think the land ends it drops down and there is more. Pools, yoga sanctuaries, lawn chairs, restaurants, a children’s park, tennis courts, and miles of mountain views.

  I knew nothing of this place, but quickly discovered this was the location of the 2015 G7 Summit – which means nothing to me other than world leaders from multiple countries (including my home country) came here to meet and discuss important topics. Naturally I had to find the bench Obama sat on while having an important looking conversation with Angela Merkel.

  

  

  The bench is a bit weathered now, and there are some lawn chairs with orange umbrellas in the distance, but this is the bench. I sat and waited to see if I felt any kind of powerful surge, but decided to go lay on one of those lawn chairs when nothing happened. I arrived around 1400 in the afternoon, and there were plenty of other humans out and about enjoying the amenities of this beautiful resort. 

  I rested on the lawn chair for about 30 minutes before leaving to head back home. I spent a few of those 30 minutes looking up how much a room cost, because I’d love to take my mom here someday, and with the two night minimum I had better start selling my soul in order to sleep here. You’d better believe if I am spending upwards of 600 euros to stay here that I will be spending all day on the property. 

  

  The ride up to Elmau passes by another smaller but equally impressive resort called Das Kranzbach. I encourage you to look at these websites if just to gawk at the amazing photos. The surrounding trees and mountains are like something out of a nature book. This resort, being a bit smaller, was more my speed. The exterior building was like a building out of a fairy tale. 

  I have a deep love for the staircase tops of these German buildings. 

  

  

  These resorts hold a special place in my heart because they were my last “new location” bike ride in Bavaria. I embarked on a few more rides after this, but to places I had been before. Nothing quite compares to the first time riding around the corner while discovering a new place. I will be forever thankful for the last six months of my time in Germany, biking like I had never biked before. 

  

  Q: Would you spend 600 euros for two nights in a mountain resort?

  

  | 19 Comments Tagged Bavaria, Bike Ride, Brittanys Life Abroad

• Murnau Meilen

  Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on June 22, 2020

  Has anyone noticed the alliterations I have attempted for some of my titles the last few months? Todays post is a German alliteration meaning “Murnau miles.” Murnau is a town in Bavaria I have blogged about before, and although I biked to Staffelsee about two months ago (which is the lake right next to Murnau) I hadn’t yet biked directly to Murnau.

  A friend of mine reached out to me a bit ago asking me if I’d consider biking to Murnau, because she was in need of a magnet for her boyfriend. Due to the Coronavirus restrictions with her job she was unable to leave town. I had no immediate plans to bike to Murnau, but after she asked me the seed was planted.

  

  I took about three weeks off from biking longer distances after my previous longer biking adventure (which was less than ideal.) I was feeling refreshed after this break and decided it was time to go for another bike ride further than my usual 20 or so miles round trip. While trying to decide where to go, my friends request popped into my head.

  I set my sights on Murnau, packed a bag full of water and snacks, and off I went. 

  The ride towards Murnau follows a path I had done before, but eventually comes to a fork. I had previously followed the fork to the right, but Murnau was to the left. Per usual, as I approached new territory my excitement grew and my energy surged. I had also just seen two naked men standing and chatting in the river enjoying a beer.

  New bike path, or naked men responsible for energy surge? One may never know. (Also, I only saw backsides…so this story is definitely PG-13.)

  

  Not the men, but same river.

  I wish I could say my desire to do a good deed and buy my friend (honestly she is more of an acquaintance) a magnet was the sole reason I wanted to bike to Murnau, but that would be a lie. It was a good initial reason, but the icing on the cake was when I decided I could also visit my favorite coffee roaster.

  I discovered the Murnauer Kaffeerösterei a handful of months ago when I bought a bag of beans from my local grocery.

  I’m a big fan of buying local coffee, but the first time I tried a blend from this company I didn’t like it. The coffee was too bright for me, and while the tasting notes were predominantly flavors I enjoy, there was a citrus note in the mix which I should have known I wouldn’t like. I gave the company another shot when I saw a Latin American blend – Nossa Senhora Brasilien.

  Tasting notes of nuts and chocolate – absolute perfection. 

  

  This coffee has been my favorite coffee in all of Europe thus far. It’s so good I have a hard time not drinking a cup every morning, even on the days when my body tells me she doesn’t want coffee. I knew the roaster was in Murnau, but I didn’t think about actually going to see it until I went for this ride.

  The path to Murnau is fairly flat, and passes by rivers, small towns, livestock, and open rolling hills. My favorite. 

  I arrived in Murnau after an hour and 45 minutes, walked around the city center, bought a magnet, and then headed down to Staffelsee to soak my feet. It was a warm afternoon and I momentarily thought about going for a swim in my birthday suit (inspired by my river friends), but there were too many people around. Although it’s legal to be nude in public here, my modesty always wins.

  After I sat by the lake for a while, I headed to the roastery. 

  

  I didn’t plan to drink any coffee, it was already 1500 and if I drink coffee after noon I have a hard time sleeping, but I still wanted to see where all the magic happens. The building was a small trailer like building, similar to what might be seen if two shipping containers were made into a coffee shop. It was cute, with just the right amount of outdoor seating.

  I went inside to browse the merchandise, and I was surprised by how many people I saw. I thought about buying a mug, and I sat staring at it for 15 minutes (I wish I were joking, pray you’re never with me when I’m considering purchasing something) before deciding against it. I was going to buy a bag of coffee, but they were all whole bean.

  I am sure they grind the coffee for you, however I felt oddly intimidated by the language barrier with all the people around. I’m usually fine – but this day I decided I didn’t want to ask. 

  

  I plan to return sometime for a morning cup at this adorable roastery, and maybe then I’ll buy some beans. If not, I always have my local grocer. The ride back to Garmisch was beautiful, but when I got about an hour away from home the weather changed for the worse. Torrential downpour, accompanied by thunder and lightening.

  I have never biked so fast on flat ground in my life. 

  I prayed out loud over and over as if I were meditating on a mantra, asking God to keep the lightening away from my bike. I made it out of the storm unscathed, and I was exhausted by the time I got home. I managed 40 miles round trip by the time I made it back, and although I was tired I enjoyed every moment of this ride.

  Except for the stretch of ill weather. 

  

  In typical Bavarian fashion, the weather flipped a switch at the drop of a hat. I wonder if the cows ever complain about this climate. I usually love it, as long as I’m not miles from home on a bike. This ride was my final long ride before returning to work full time (the hotel I work at opened last Monday), and it was the perfect way to bid adieu to a chill work schedule.

  I’m thankful my body felt so great on this bike ride. I never take for granted all that I am able to accomplish these days, and the difficult rides make the smoother rides that much more enjoyable. ❤

  Q: Have you ever gotten stuck in a storm with no option but to keep going? I thought about stopping in somewhere if the lightening got too bad.

  

  | 17 Comments Tagged Bavaria, Biking, Brittanys Life Abroad, Germany, Murnau

• Kamikaze Kramer

  Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on June 18, 2020

  Kamikaze – “having or showing reckless disregard for safety or personal welfare.”

  Yea, that sounds about right. Where do I even being…

  Last September, my friend (and former roommate) MaryBeth and I decided to hike one of the mountains behind where we live. As I mentioned in this post, I had been eyeing this mountain since the day I arrived so we decided it was finally time. If you read the post I linked, you will know our attempt was unsuccessful, so we decided to try summiting the mountain from the other side – hoping it would be less scary.

  Spoiler: It was not.

  

  Cross marks the summit.

  I’ll start from the beginning. The day we gave the Kramer a second chance was beautiful. The sun was shining, the temperatures were warm, and it was a complete 180 in weather from our first attempt. I was feeling good, my body was ready, and I was excited to see a new to me route (the Kramer literally has never ending trails.)

  The route we chose this time was a bit longer in distance, but was supposed to be less sketchy once closer to the top. This route also has a well known Hütte called Stepbergalm a little over halfway up, and we had both been wanting to see it/grab a bite or a drink. The day we hiked was the day the Hütte reopened after a temporary closure due to the Coronavirus.

  Everything was lining up – it was going to be a great day…

  

  Stepbergalm – 1592 m

  

  The hike to the Stepbergalm took us about 2 hours and 20 minutes. The trail up was beautiful and moderately inclined. I never felt unsafe, and my anxiety was low. I was smiling, and singing, and relishing in the beauty of the mountains surrounding me.

  

  I was also savoring this time with MaryBeth. I knew she would be moving out soon, and this was likely our last hike together in Garmisch. She moved to Ulm a couple weeks after this hike, which is just a short two hour-ish train ride from Garmisch. I plan to visit her before I move back to the states, and hope for one more weekend getaway together.

  

  

  MaryBeth was nothing short of a blessing to me while living in Germany. She was not only my roommate, but my best friend. She got me through difficult times at work, difficult times at “home,” and was an all around amazing adventure partner. We managed to travel to six countries together, and I know we will be travel buddies for life.

  Divagations aside, back to the story.

  Upon arrival at the Stepbergalm, we sat and savored a snack before completing the final push towards the cross at the summit. The estimated time to the summit was an hour and 45 minutes from the Stepbergalm. I was still feeling great, and was confident we would summit with ease.

  And thennnn the rocks got larger and looser and I suddenly regretted denying the use of hiking poles. 

  

  This guy died on my birthday in 1930 – is this some kind of bad omen?

  Going up with loose rock isn’t usually an issue, it’s coming back down that makes me nervous. Naturally when going up, all I can think about is how stressful it will be to come back down. We reached a section of the trail that was surrounded by trees without any sudden drop offs, so imminent death was not a concern, but I was still getting anxious.

  We passed the section of large loose rocks and falsely believed we were in the clear. The path flattened out for a bit, and although the trail was thin, it was stable. We began laughing again, we settled into a comfortable pace, we savored the views we were starting to see, but then as quickly as it returned my ataraxia was swept back under the rug.

  

  

  

  We saw the cross off in the distance, but something in my gut told me this was not going to be a cake walk to the summit. The slim path was now becoming a roller coaster like track of ups and downs and the loose gravel was back. I suddenly became very aware of how high I was, and how unsafe I was starting to feel. Kamikaze Kramer.

  We quickly learned it didn’t matter which route we took to the top, they were all equipped with a frightening trail towards the final push. Our pace slowed to a crawl, and at one point I was literally immobile, clinging to a large rock. I began laughing, similar to the beginning stages of hysteria, and told MaryBeth I wasn’t sure I could keep moving.

  

  

  I managed to push past my rock of safety, but my body was shaking as if I had spent all night out in the cold. I don’t often feel this amount of fear when I am hiking, but all I could think about was how one wrong step would send me slipping, and the exiguous trail left me envisioning the worst.

  And then, just when we thought it couldn’t get any worse we saw her. The sheer rock wall to the summit. Fully equipped with loose gravel. The summit was surrounded by people, and I wondered if any of them had to revert back to infancy like MaryBeth and I while crawling up the side of a mountain.

  I could feel the eyes of those at the summit watching me move at the pace of a sloth, and I wondered if they could sense my fear. If we had been a different species of animal they would have been able to smell my freight from miles away.

  

  We decided to skip the sheer rock wall, and promptly sat at the base of the final stretch. I once again had no desire to “touch the cross” indicating I reached the summit. We had reached the elevation of the summit, and as far as I am concerned we summited. We sat at the base of the cross for a good ten minutes anticipating the descent.

  We sat at the base of the cross because we were both too fearful to move back down what we had just gone up. 

  I prayed for us (yeah, we were that scared) and off we went. I scooted on my butt for the portion of the trail that has a sharp drop with loose rocks, and when I found my way back to my rock of safety I felt relief. I struggled more going up, and MaryBeth struggled more going down. She became immobile at one point, but eventually mustered the courage to continue.

  

  We finally made it back to the first sketchy path just past the Stepbergalm and after seeing the summit I no longer thought this area was sketchy. My perspective was immediately altered. We made it to the Stepbergalm just as they were closing, and our hopes of having a post hike drink blew away with the wind between the trees.

  We sat on the hill by the Stepbergalm to eat some food, and to mentally prepare for the two and a half hours of hiking we had left. 

  

  At this point I managed to switch my laughter from hysterical to “what the hell did we just do.” I couldn’t help but wonder why no one else I’ve spoken to has been phased by the sketchiness of the summit. Were we the only two people to find this hike terrifying at the top? I never realized how afraid of heights I was until this hike.

  Needless to say, I will never hike this mountain again, and I no longer have a desire to hike the Zugspitze (Germanys tallest mountain, which is also in my backyard.) I have realized my preferred hiking is the kind where I don’t feel my life is in danger. I don’t enjoy kamikaze hiking!

  Most people wouldn’t be as dramatic as I have been in this post, but these were my feelings throughout this hike. 

  

  The views from the “safe” part near the summit were mind-blowing, and the valley where the Stepbergalm lives is like something out of the Sound of Music. I would happily hike to the Stepbergalm again, just to sit and savor the valley, but 10/10 would not do the summit ever again.

  As I get older I have become more in tune with my intuition and my “gut voice” when I feel unsafe. This hike had my gut doing backflips like a gold medal gymnast, and I was happy to skip the last 5 minutes of this hike. I regret nothing, and this is now a comical memory I become overly dramatic about when discussing with my peers.

  I’ll never forget the Kamikaze Kramer.

  Q: Would you need to go right next to the cross to consider this a summit, or would you still feel you completed the hike without the final few steps?

  

  | 29 Comments Tagged Bavaria, Brittanys Life Abroad, Hiking, Kramer

• Early Morning Confessions

  Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on June 11, 2020

  1. There is an old farm house I have passed many times when I go for bike rides, in the middle of a beautiful open field. Every time I pass by, I see a little old German man sitting with his goats. He has a beer in his hand, a straw hat on his head, and weeks worth of filth overalls on his tiny frame. He is the most adorable depiction of Bavaria.

  I passed by recently and gave him a quick “German nod” of hello (it’s such a common way to acknowledge people here) and it made my day. 

  

  Of course the one time I take a photo, he is on the other side. But also I would not have been so bold had he been sitting there with the goats on his green bench.

  2. I am notorious for taking scissors to the back of my head when I start to feel my hair flipping. Quarantine was no exception, and I snipped a good amount of hair from the bottom. It’s never even, and it always looks terrible.

  When I finally got a haircut, the woman who snipped my hair was laughing and making fun of me in her native language (I believe she is middle eastern), but it was great. She’s veracious with her gestures towards me, but it’s all in good fun. I have had my hair cut by her twice now, and it’s never a dull time despite the intense language barriers.

  3. For someone who used to be so hyper-focused on exercise being a form of achievement, never slowing down to smell the roses, I am proud of how I often approach biking these days. I have to be mindful of my intentions still, but even if my intentions aren’t pure I have no problem hopping off my bike for a moment to snap a photo.

  And if I see a cat? It’s game over and I am off my bike for at least five minutes. 

  

  

  Or livestock…basically if I see an animal I have the potential of touching I am off and trying to summon them to me.

  

  4. I don’t eat bread much, or any grains really (unless I want to suffer the consequences), but I have been eating a lot of nut butters lately. They’re hit or miss for me, but I try to put them on something so I don’t get lost with my spoon in the jar. I put them on weird things. My latest enjoyment is smothering hardboiled eggs or potatoes with cashew butter.

  5. I have mentioned this before, but I really, really enjoy cemeteries. I don’t know what it is about them, but the peaceful energy brings such stillness to my soul. Sometimes I will go to one near where I live and just sit.

  

  

  

  Getting some major fall vibes here.

  6. I am a new member of the seasonal allergies club, and I would like my money back. I have never had these before, but I have now experienced the non stop watering/itchy eyes, itchy nose, and intense sneezing. I made it to 31 before the darkness came.

  7. When I first moved to Germany, I told myself I would hike the tallest mountain in the country – which happens to be in my backyard. A year and some change later I still have not hiked the Zugspitze, and my interest has faded. Mountains in Germany are crazy, and there are too many sheer rock walls for my liking.

  And a Klettersteig? Count me out. 

  

  8. I haven’t been to the dentist in over two years. Thankfully I have always had a healthy smile (except for that root canal I got because of an unknown gaping hole in my jaw which turned out to be a mandibular cyst), but two years without a cleaning is too long. I have an appointment next month.

  9. My roommate MaryBeth has moved on to her next chapter of life, and I miss her terribly. She is still in Germany, so if I get the itch and the time off I can still go see her, but it’s not the same. I am thankful for all our adventures together, including our last few hikes, bike rides, and coffee dates.

  

  

  Seen on our ride: “Stay healthy.”

  

  “Happy Easter 2020.”

  

  Final photo with this trifecta, now it’s just Laura (green and blue stripes) and I!

  

  

  Last coffee date in our room, in a bricki!

  10. In my last EMC post I talked about how I cleaned my bike and oiled my chain. This time I talk about how I tightened and readjusted my bike breaks. Me, I, myself. I YouTubed it and fixed them and I feel like a bike boss.

  Q: What’s your confession?

  

  | 25 Comments Tagged Bavaria, Brittanys Life Abroad, Coffee, Early Morning Confessions, Germany

• Mind Over Matter to Mittenwald

  Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on June 8, 2020

  I created a mental check list of places I wanted to bike during my last few months living in Germany, and I have officially completed this list. Anything else is extra, and at this point I am feeling a bit ambivalent about biking long distances. It’s not that I don’t enjoy my long bike rides, they have been indescribably wonderful, but I found myself feeling a bit dogmatic with regard to biking.

  I had to go far, or the bike ride wasn’t “worthy.” How quickly I can fall back into addictive behaviors that damage both my physical and mental wellbeing. 

  

  I am thankful for my ability to recognize this behavior, but I usually have to slip off track momentarily to noice. I went for a bike ride a few weeks ago to a town called Mittenwald, when I noticed my motives for the bike ride were skewed. I didn’t want to bike to Mittenwald so I could see the town, I had seen it twice prior, I wanted to bike to Mittenwald to challenge myself physically.

  A physical challenge in and of itself is by no means a negative desire, however the day I chose to embark on this adventure was a day I wasn’t feeling my best. It was a day I should have listened better to my body telling me she was tired, and that she didn’t want to go for a long bike ride. It was a day I ate too much peanut butter with my breakfast – and suddenly my inner food critic began screaming at me to move my body.

  

  I sometimes wonder if the little disordered devil on my shoulder will ever fully retire, or if I will always have recurring thoughts of needing to “make up” for something I have eaten through exercise. I am lightyears away from where I used to be, but I still struggle sometimes. For most people, having a dedicated workout routine is sought after, it’s praised, but for me it can be more destructive for my body because I push too hard.

  Alas, the anxiety of stillness kicked in, and off I went.

  The ride to Mittenwald was beautiful. I rode on new bike paths I hadn’t seen before, and I felt the surge of energy I get when I find new landscapes. This was great for a while, but at one point the distance of this bike ride proved to be further than I expected. I began feeling fatigued, but I didn’t want to quit. I felt like biking far had become my “go to” while I was on leave from work. What else was I going to do with my day?

  Heaven forbid I actually just…rest. 

  

  The first time I visited Mittenwald was March 2019. I attended a Fasching celebration that was supposed to be family friendly, yet I found myself terrified by the children running around cracking whips in traditional Fasching masks.

  I did however enjoy the most elaborate tea experience including a tea light and a timer.

  The second time I visited Mittenwald was December 2019. I came for their Christkindlmarkt, where I drank a glass of Glühwein, ate goulash out of a bread bowl, and split eine bratwurst mit mein Freund. All in less than an hour. I didn’t feel so hot after.

  

  

  This bike ride was the third time I visited Mittenwald. It took me four hours round trip to bike 37 miles, with 2935ft of elevation gain (kill me.) What I got this day was attacked by the above pictured cat and a raging post bike ride headache. It’s safe to say Mittenwald and I have a love hate relationship, and third time was not the charm.

  I love the beauty of the town, but hate how my body feels every time I leave (my own doing. Except the creepy kids.) 

  I never regret a bike ride, they always show me new places and/or teach me something. I had to learn an uncomfortable lesson on the ride home. I chose to bike back a different route, which ended up taking me higher in elevation than the route I took into Mittenwald. I was annoyed, exhausted, and anxious.

  

  I knew I had pushed my body too hard and I was scared of the repercussions (I really hate feeling out of commission for days.) These thoughts made it difficult to enjoy the surrounding views as I was biking home. I took an amazing bike path, with endless rolling hills, but I was so preoccupied with my mind I had a hard time stopping to smell the roses.

  Not to mention my body kept telling me “I told you so” when I was struggling up the hills. 

  I had to dig deep into the mind over matter thought process to get myself back home. I told myself on this ride, that I was done biking just to bike. I need to ensure I feel well enough to endure the miles, and I need to ensure my mind is well enough to appreciate the discoveries. I don’t regret biking to Mittenwald, but I do wish I had waited until I was in a better physical and mental space before I did it.

  

  My headache lasted nearly 24 hours, which was to be expected (despite drinking extra water.) My fatigue was at a high the next few days, but I made sure to rest. I sometimes forget that I will never be able to live my life the way I used to when I was elevating my heart rate to its max capacity all the time.

  I took about three weeks off from riding longer distances after this ride. I know my happy place is somewhere between 15-35 miles at one time. I have also resumed working, which was a choice I made when I realized my two months of LWOP were starting to come at a cost.

  I know myself, and the desire to go, go, go with too much free time is inescapable. I either push myself too far, or I fall prey to negative thoughts.

  

  My time away from work was amazing, and I am thankful for all the adventures I was able to embark on in those two months. My plan for my final few months in Germany is to continue biking, but never to force it. I don’t want biking to become my enemy.

  This post is not to say I won’t push myself again before I leave, my human nature makes me akratic at times, it’s just a reminder to myself and anyone who needs to hear it that we remember to listen to our bodies more. I think one long bike ride per week is much more sustainable than every day/every other day. 🙂

  Q: Do you ever push your body when you know you should rest? I suppose for “normal” people this wouldn’t be a big deal…but I often ignore that my body is not “normal.”

  

  | 26 Comments Tagged Bavaria, Biking, Brittanys Life Abroad, Mittenwald

• 88 Kilometers to Kochel (am See)

  Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on June 1, 2020

  Last April I took a train to a lake in Bavaria I wanted to visit after seeing a photo of it online. Upon my arrival in Germany, I wanted a baseline knowledge of places near where I live that I could visit on a day off. I looked up “must see” places, and Kochel am See was on the list.

  Kochel is the name of the town, and “am See” is essentially saying “at the lake.”

  

  When I visited this lake for the first time last year, I hadn’t yet purchased my bike. It took me a couple more weeks to pull the trigger on my trusty steed, an investment I originally struggled to make. As I have said time and time again – I cannot imagine my life in Germany without my bike.

  A short while after I bought Frosty (my bike) I had thoughts of what it would be like to bike to Kochel. It wasn’t close by any means, but it wasn’t so far that it was unattainable. I tucked the thought into the back of my mind for a looonnngg winter of cold and dreary weather.

  As soon as the brightness of spring started to come back, so too did my suppressed “stay down in the basement” thoughts of biking to Kochel. 

  

  It wasn’t that I didn’t want to return to visit the lake, it was that the mileage (or kilometers if you’re not a behind the times American like me) intimidated me. The self doubt was running rampant in my mind spouting grawlix like phrases of negativity.

  I avoided the bike ride to Kochel, favoring closer/more comfortable distances instead. These shorter, but equally laudable rides were necessary for me to send my self sabotaging mindset to the gutter where it belonged. It was time to destroy the narrative I had created in my mind.

  

  I had two options with regard to biking to Kochel: I could go as far as comfortable and turn around (or worst case if for some reason my bike exploded or my leg got mauled by a rogue centaur, I could take a train home), or I could stay in my comfort zone telling myself “you can’t do it.”

  I decided to play my cards with the possibility of seeing a centaur. 

  

  I chose a day I knew would have sun, but when I started it was cold. Brutally cold. I wanted to turn around many times, until I made it to an area of the bike path I’d not been before. Something about new territory always sparks a flame in my brain similar to the adrenaline one might feel when lifting a car off of a horse.

  And by someone, I mean Superman. And by a horse, I mean anyone in distress. You get the idea. 

  As if planned, the moment I found a new to me bike path the sun came out. You can’t make this stuff up folks! My doubts were washed away, and I continued to tell myself “you can always turn around.” I know my personality, and I am stubborn as hell so turning around is usually not an option – but just telling myself it was (and believing it), was all I needed.

  

  The path to Kochel was beautiful, as all of the paths in Bavaria are, and I felt rejuvenated in my solitude riding through new to me locations. I made it to the lake and was feeling great (to the lake was about 25 miles, a distance I cover almost daily – so it was nothing new…yet.)

  I sat and enjoyed the view, savored a snack, and enjoyed the warm sun on my skin.

  Before biking back to Garmisch, I explored some of the surrounding areas as well. I was already there, and knew I likely wouldn’t be back so I wanted to see some other new to me places. I stopped by the town next door called Schlehdorf, to get a closer look at Cohaus Kloster Schlehdorf, aka the town monastery.

  

  I also rode a few extra miles to see another smaller, and much less impressive lake called Eichsee. 

  

  After Eichsee it was time to head home, so I settled into the two hour ride ahead. Overall I felt strong, and I felt good. It wasn’t until around mile 45 I started to slow down. I was about ten miles from home, so I took a break by the river and ate the rest of my snacks.

  I knew the remaining ten miles would be trance like, I had ridden them many times.  I zoned out in an attempt to make them less uncomfortable. 

  

  I made it home, and my total milage for the day was 54 miles, or 88 kilometers. I was elated. It wasn’t the distance, or the lake, or the day full of adventure that brought such a warmth to my heart, it was the proof that I AM MY OWN WORST CRITIC. I put this ride off for months because the distance intimidated me, I told myself it was too much for my body, when really I have all the tools to make this activity possible.

  The tools for me are different than the tools are for you, or for Sally, or Shaun. Life with an autoimmune disease is unpredictable and it takes attention to detail to make these goals a reality. Proper nutrition, proper hydration, proper rest, and a proper pace. These are boundaries we all have, they just vary person to person.

  

  Some days I wake up and I know right away a 55 mile bike ride (I rounded up) is not an option – and that’s ok, but what’s not ok is never trying because I assume my body can’t do something. What’s not ok is forgetting all the good days I have because I’m dwelling on the not so good (physically) days.

  The strength of your mind determines the quality of your life, and my life felt pretty high class after crushing this goal. The lake was not the goal for this day, the goal was to push myself further away from my black and white thinking, and to remind myself I don’t have to go fast – I just have to go. I’ll never know what I can do unless I try.

  It just so happened that this day was also my one year anniversary with Frosty. I think we celebrated well, don’t you? 🙂

  Q: Can you think of a time you surprised yourself with your capabilities?

  

  | 20 Comments Tagged Bavaria, Biking, Brittanys Life Abroad, Frosty, Kochel, Life

• A Tale of Two Trails

  Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on May 25, 2020

  Is anyone sick of my biking stories lately? Thanks to all the free time I have had the past two months, biking has become a daily activity for me. I am in for a rude awakening when I leave Germany and no longer have access to the biking paths here. I am trying my damnedest not to think about the future lack of trails, and enjoy the current moments.

  Last month I went for two notable bike rides, both of which pushed my limits a bit. I tend to get stuck in habitual patterns of what is comfortable, but I wanted to challenge myself so I chose two routes I had done last fall (when I was in better shape) to ride again. One of the routes I never actually biked the entire way, I instead found a hiking trail and walked my bike up the giant hill (twice.)

  I was too intimidated by the giant hill.

  

  We’ll start with the story of the easier ride. I typically bike the same path everyday to my favorite area, but I knew I wanted to go somewhere different. I wanted a slight challenge of a hill to bring out my inner “Little Engine that Could.” I decided to bike to Geroldsee, a beautiful lake with amazing mountain views.

  

  

  

  Looking at those photos I wonder how this place is even real. I parked my bike at the hut in the last photo, and climbed partway up a hill to get a better view of the mountains behind the lake. The hill to Geroldsee is a decent elevation grade, but it’s never as bad as I anticipate it will be. I don’t rush, I take it low and slow, and this keeps me at a comfortable heart rate.

  Something has clicked in my mindset the past couple months, and I have more confidence in who I am and what my abilities are. I no longer feel anxious going at my own pace.

  

  

  I sat at the lake for quite some time, a little more than 30 minutes, and I let myself get lost in the views. A few people passed me as I sat on a nearby bench, and we exchanged greetings as they continued on the path. I prefer biking alone, but when I see other people out and about it gives me the comfort of being with others.

  A woman on a horse also rode by – a surprising, but not unexpected view. 

  

  

  My ride home took me soaring down the hill I climbed, but not before passing by some furry friends. I felt strong, as I often do after I complete something I thought would be hard. I am learning to let go of the perfectionism, which I really tested on my next bike ride – the one with the big hill.

  

  My second notable ride was to a monastery I’ve visited twice. As I mentioned before, each time I had biked here in the past I avoided the long, winding, mountain road and found a back route meant more for hiking instead. The hiking trail is shorter, as it’s more of a direct route, but that also means it’s significantly steeper.

  It’s near impossible to bike up the hiking route (for me) so I would always walk my bike up this section. It takes me around 50 minutes depending on my energy, but something in me this day told me to try and bike up the mountain road. I put my perfectionism away (my mind would say something like: “this is a big hill and if you can’t complete all of it you’ll have wasted your effort”), and I told myself if I only make it partway, it is still an accomplishment.

  

  Not only did I make it the entire way, but the time it took to bike up was comparable with the time it took when I walked my bike up the hiking path (and seemed easier.) The road is long, and there were moments I thought I was close when I wasn’t, but it was far easier than I expected. The cars zooming past me were scarier than the hill itself.

  Another low and slow climb. Three men passed me, and one woman, but I didn’t care.

  I didn’t feel less than because they were faster than me, I felt strong because I was one of them – a biker biking up a big ass hill and not stopping. The pace doesn’t matter, the effort is what matters. The ride up raised my body temperature, and the cool interior of the monastery was a welcomed reprieve. I sat alone in stillness admiring the ornate interior, thanking God for allowing my body to do what it did.

  

  

  I know I say it often, but it’s my life and something that is always buzzing in the background, but when I get into a balanced groove with my health I appreciate things more than I ever did before. Without the darkness, we can never truly appreciate the light. I truly believe this break from a stressful job has worked wonders for me.

  I spent some time foraging for dandelion greens in the surrounding mountains, and couldn’t slap the smile off my face. 

  

  The ride down was likely scarier than the ride up because I don’t like going down hills fast. My max speed was 43MPH, and speeding makes me feel as if I’ve lost control. I don’t ride my breaks, but I certainly pump them often. Going down is similar to going up, I go at my own pace.

  It might sound silly, but these physical accomplishments have been monumental for me. I attribute my body feeling well to being in a balance due to having limited stress in my life at the moment. I have my days, but sleeping, eating well, and moving my body intuitively is giving me confidence in other areas of my life, not just with my physical activities. I just need to keep the momentum going when inevitable stress comes back into my life.

  These two bike rides inspired me to complete my longest ride to date, which I continued to put off because I doubted myself. More on that in my next post! 🙂

  Q: Do you overanalyze like I do, or do you have an easy time going with the flow?

  

  | 38 Comments Tagged Bavaria, Biking, Brittanys Life Abroad

• Staffelsee Spin

  Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on May 7, 2020

  Some days my body is so fatigued the only thing that will get me going is a cup of coffee and an entire chocolate bar. I feel so worn out from just existing that my body feels like it has aged decades overnight (not to say there aren’t some extremely spry elderly women!)  And some days my body feels good, light, and full of energy.

  Two days after my bike ride to Linderhof I had a surge of energy and ran with it, errr biked with it.

  

  I woke up the morning of this ride and pulled open my map. I looked for something close enough to bike to, but far enough that I hadn’t been yet. I found a wetland area I never realized existed called Murnauer Moos and chose this as my destination.

  I packed my bag, and set off for an adventure.

  

  The first part of this ride is one I have done many times, and it has become almost meditative for me. Biking as a whole is often something I do when I need to shut my brain off, or when I need to process something. I can easily get on my bike and zone out for hours.

  This is sort of what happened on this day.

  The only things that brought me back to reality were my stomach pangs, and my need for direction after I left the area I was familiar with. My fuel of choice lately when biking or hiking longer distances has been potatoes, chicken breasts, apples, and hardboiled eggs. I’m amazed at the difference in energy I have when I keep it simple.

  

  As I found my way onto the above photographed road I was in awe of my surroundings. I’ve lived in Bavaria for 16 months, yet I continue to find new nooks and crannies that make me feel like I just moved here. I could have ridden a never-ending stretch of this road for hours.

  The Murnauer Moos ended up being a bit further than I expected, but I had all day and didn’t sweat it (didn’t figuratively sweat it, I was most definitely literally sweating it.) I eventually found the wetland trails, and the path was flat and windy with endless mountain views. I was a bit surprised how many other humans I saw out and about on the wetland trails, but it was nice.

  

  After about 30 minutes on this path, I came to a sign pointing in multiple different directions. On the sign was a distance and estimated time of arrival for the town of Murnau, as well as a nearby lake called Staffelsee. Before deciding on the Murnauer Moos, I thought about biking to Murnau/Staffelsee, but worried it would be too far.

  Sometimes I worry about going too far from home and exhausting myself. I often have more energy than I give myself credit for, but I also fear overexerting myself because this often leads to an immune flare up. I tend to get so wrapped up in my ride, and I can easily get hours away from home, which means I’ll have to have energy to get back.

  

  I used to hike on empty all the time because I didn’t think I needed to eat food to refuel (what a concept.) I’ve since learned to fuel as I go, but I still worry at times I will crash and then be stuck too far from home. I realize I’m dramatic, but these are the things I think about. These are the things I HAVE to think about.

  I get a little less anxious when the world is functioning normally, but with Covid I worry about trains running normally, and the language barrier always makes things a bit awkward. Alas, living my life in fear will get me no where, and when I saw that I was only about 40 minutes from the lake I decided to keep going.

  

  Just around the corner from this church was a trail that ended up being a 3 mile round trip walk to the lake. I was feeling stubborn and my mind needed an official end destination for the day, so the lake ended up being the destination. Despite my aforementioned anxiety about getting too far, I also like to push the limits of my ability because it makes me feel in control of my autoimmune disease.

  Not the smartest, but I’m human what can I say.

  

  I made it to the lake, and I have to admit the area I walked to was a bit anticlimactic. I could have done without this extra trek, but I was proud of the distance I covered. I was anxious when it came time to turn around, but I ended up surprising myself with the energy I still had. This tends to be the case, I self doubt far too often.

  I rode 45 miles round trip, which is the longest bike ride I’ve done thus far. It’s no Seattle to Portland (which I would love to do sometime), but it’s a start. 

  

  1hr 57min is a joke. It took me three hours to get to the bench.

  If this ride taught me anything, aside from how beautiful Bavaria is, it’s that I am my own worst critic. I am capable of more than I give myself credit for, and while I do try to honor my body and its needs, sometimes pushing the limits is necessary for mental peace. This adventure came with a cost, and I was one with my bed the following day, but in the end it was worth it.

  This is what life with an autoimmune disease is like, we must carefully choose activities,  foods, and stressors. If we make a choice we know will result in discomfort we have to accept this and weigh whether the action is worth the pain. I’m still learning to navigate the balance of choosing activities I know will cause me to be out of commission for a bit, but at the end of the day I would rather have one epic day with two down days, than no epic days at all.

  Q: Would you rather go a distance you know you can complete round trip, or push your limits and go further than you think you’re capable of? I often find I am always capable…even if it hurts. 

  

  | 32 Comments Tagged Bavaria, Biking, Brittanys Life Abroad, Germany

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