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    • Linderhof Palace

      Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on April 13, 2020

      I’ve found myself with (a lot of) extra free time lately, and while some days I don’t leave my room, other days I go on extensive (to me) bike rides around Bavaria. The weather lately has been exceptional, dare I say hot even, making the choice to get outside that much easier.

      I’ve ridden my bike many places around where I live, but now I’m starting to go further.

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      I decided last week to ride my bike to Linderhof Palace, the lesser known stepsister to the popular Neuschwanstein Castle. King Ludwig II of Bavaria never finished building Neuschwanstein before he mysteriously died, however Linderhof was completed, and it was in this palace where he actually lived.

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      Ludwig was an extreme introvert, to the point of having his meals delivered using a pulley system from floors below just so he didn’t have to see anyone. I think he would have thrived during this time of social isolation, however at the time his escape from reality lifestyle cost him his sanity, and ultimately his life.

      Despite his unique progression (or lack there of) into power, his fantasy world brought to life these two amazing palaces which were said to be funded by the tax paying community. I can understand the disdain towards him from the town folks, but today hundreds of thousands of visitors come to admire these architectural masterpieces.

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      Due to the current lockdown in Bavaria (and in many places all over the world), Linderhof is not open to the public. However, Bavaria (and Germany as a whole) has contained the Corona virus appropriately enough to allow those of us who live here the freedom to go outdoors for sports activities.

      So long as we’re alone, or with those we live with. For me bike rides are almost always solo activities. 

      I am finding that my love of outdoor sports is fluid. It changes as I change, and that’s ok. I once loved running outdoors, which then changed to a love for hiking, and has changed once again to a love for biking. This doesn’t mean I don’t still enjoy the aforementioned activities (although running and I really struggle to get along these days), but I much prefer biking. Especially when it’s warm outside. 

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      Fortunately for me, King Ludwig II loved the mountains, and loved to be tucked into his own pocket of the alps. Linderhof is surrounded by amazing views, and I can see why he chose this location to isolate himself. With the current isolation going on, I’d choose a place like this to spend my time too.

      Linderhof is not in prime shape during the winter months, and although it was technically spring when I stopped by, it was still looking pretty rough. The outside of the actual palace is gorgeous, and I can only imagine what the inside looks like, but the outer grounds (known for the flowers and the garden) was less than stellar. 

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      Renovations are being done to the grounds, which are larger than I expected them to be. The palace itself is apart of a park area with walking paths, tree canopies, and fountains to unwind next to. I’ve been told middle to late spring is the best time to visit because the gardens are in full bloom, but photos of the palace in the fall intrigue me more.

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      Source (spring)

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      Source (fall)

      The above photos are what Linderhof looks like in her prime, alas when I visited it was a complete 180. I didn’t go expecting to see elaborate landscapes though, I went to see the palace itself, and to enjoy a long beautiful bike ride. I rode 34 miles this day, and it was a wonderful adventure through parts of Bavaria I hadn’t been.

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      I have said it once, and I will say it again – the freedom that a bicycle provides is unlike anything else. Sure, driving is great, but there is a kind of exhilaration that accompanies being on two wheels in a new to me location, with the wind in my hair. My travels have all been well worth the money, but this bike was the best investment I made last year. Second to my IRA of course. 😉

      Q: What does social isolation look like where you live? Are you able to go outside in nature?

      brittany

      | 23 Comments Tagged Bavaria, Biking, Brittanys Life Abroad, Europe, Linderhof Palace
    • Colmar, France

      Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on April 8, 2020

      After a lovely day in Strasbourg, my pal and I had one more day in France for our weekend getaway, and we decided to drive the hour south to Colmar before heading back to Germany. Colmar is renowned for its superbly preserved old town, adorned with timber-framed wood houses that reflect an exceptional blend of Germanic and French architecture.

      Have I mentioned how much I love this style of housing?

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      The weather on this day was a moody mix of wind and sprinkles, but neither of us were phased by this. When traveling, learning to roll with whatever is thrown your way makes things more enjoyable. Plus, most people aren’t traveling during the winter months so the trade off for poor weather is less humans.

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      We had no plan for this afternoon of wandering, so we parked the car and set off for a few hours of exploration. Our first stop was to La Petite Venise, or Little Venice, to admire the houses on the canal. These houses sit on the Lauch river and are said to have been houses for fishermen and boaters once upon a time.

      Now, they are the perfect houses to add to a vision board. 

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      A small walk along the pleasant Quai de la Poissonnerie leads to St Peter’s bridge where we had a beautiful view over “Little Venice.” From the bridge heading back down the cobblestone streets of Quai de la Poissonnerie we found a large brass colored building dating back to 1865. This building used to be a shopping hall, and is now a covered market known as Marché couvert.

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      Path towards market.

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      Market on the right.

      I wasn’t aware of this market until we passed by and I glanced inside the window. This indoor market (completely renovated in 2010), is home to many stalls selling local products, fruit and vegetables, and a bar with an amazing terrace (which seems to float on the Lauch River.) You can see the terrace surrounded by a red wall in the above photo.

      I can only imagine how popular the terrace is in the warmer months. 

      We hadn’t had breakfast yet, and this covered market was the perfect place to stop for a bite. Inside, the people were just waking up and it was apparent everyone wandering the stalls were locals and not tourists. Everyone knew what they wanted, and were having friendly chats with the stall owners. We made a full lap before finding the stalls we wanted to stop at.

      Breakfast goals were simple: bread, butter, jam, coffee.

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      The stall owners spoke very little English, but they were all very kind. We sat at the stall where we ordered coffee and each ate our entire baguette (and more than half this circle of local butter!) Bread makes me very brain foggy, but when in France it’s worth it.

      I remember the exact feeling of calm I had sitting inside this market focusing on nothing more than my baguette and americano.

      After breakfast we wandered around the streets and shops for a couple more hours before starting the drive back to Germany. We spent just the first half of our day in Colmar, which was enough time for us. One day is enough for this town, and perhaps I will return someday in the nicer weather to enjoy a cup of coffee on the covered market terrace.

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      When driving home, our GPS ended up taking us into Switzerland (I didn’t adjust the route option) which added an extra hour onto our drive back (whoops.) We had a good laugh about this detour, and thankfully the weather held up for the entirety of the drive.

      Strasbourg was enjoyable for its size and walkability, and Colmar was enjoyable for the same reasons, but in a different way. Comar is smaller, but far less touristy (even in the off season.) Both towns are beautiful, and have awe worthy architecture.

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      France continues to surprise me. Aside from a designated trip to Paris and Normandy in January, my other visits have been sporadic one or two day pop ins. In the future I would love to dedicate a week or more to exploring more of the country. Until then, I will daydream of fresh baguettes and locally churned butter. Ohh to be French.

      Q: Baguettes with butter and jam, or croissants? 

      brittany

      | 23 Comments Tagged Baguettes, Brittanys Life Abroad, Coffee, Colmar, Europe, France
    • Strasbourg, France

      Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on April 1, 2020

      At the end of February, one of my pals and I took a weekend trip to Strasbourg, France. I have visited France three times since living in Germany, and I have to admit before moving to Europe, France was never a country high on my list of places to visit. While Paris wasn’t really my cup of tea (big cities usually aren’t), I was blown away by the French countryside, and the small town of Strasbourg was just what I hoped it would be and more.

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      My friend and I both have February birthdays (hers is the day after mine!) and we hadn’t traveled together since last April, so we requested to have one of our weekends fall on the same two days. We rented a car, and I drove us the 3.5 hrs west. Strasbourg is right on the border of Germany, so the houses have a heavy German influence.

      I adore the German/Saxon style architecture, and perhaps this is why I loved this little town so much.

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      We drove to Strasbourg after work on our Friday, and arrived just in time to get a good nights rest. We found an Air B & B within 30 minutes walking distance, and right next to the tram. This was a nice balance of options, and we ended up walking into town, and decided to take the tram back in the evening. We woke early the following morning and headed towards the city for a day of exploration.

      We started our day at a local boulangerie for coffee and breakfast, and as we sat inside eating we heard nothing but French as the locals hurried in for their baguettes and espresso. Of all the countries I have visited, France was the one I felt most nervous asking if they speak English. I’ve heard that the French don’t like American’s, but as I said before I have been three times now and never once did I feel like a bother.

      Even in Paris! Crushing stereotypes when traveling is one of my favorite things to do. 

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      After savoring the local hustle and bustle of the boulangerie, we set off to wander the town by foot. We wandered inside the Strasbourg Cathedral, and then headed towards La Petite France, an adorable part of town on the canal. The morning weather was cool with an overcast, but by the early afternoon the clouds broke and the sun came out in full force.

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      Cathedral before the sun.

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      Cathedral after the sun.

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      La Petite France

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      La Petite France felt like a village straight out of Beauty and the Beast, and I expected a portly baker to come around the corner offering baguettes to passerby’s.

      After gawking at the adorable German style houses again, we wandered towards Parc de l’Orangerie. This is Strasbourg’s oldest park, with 24 hectares full of paths for jogging, walking, or bird watching. Yes bird watching. I thought I walked into an Alfred Hitchcock movie when I saw nest, after nest, after nest of stork homes.

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      This was literally one of the most bizarre things I have ever seen, and as we kept walking through the park we eventually stumbled upon a small farm/zoo. This was even more bizarre. Part of the small farm is dedicated to the stork rehabilitation. The stork, threatened by extinction, was successfully reintroduced to the region’s natural environment.

      The rest of the zoo held random animals from all over the world. I couldn’t understand the signs, as they were all in French, but I believe these animals were endangered and the zoo was meant to be beneficial to the species. This is what I told myself at least, I don’t like the idea of a zoo unless there is no other option for the animals.

      After this bizarre experience, we headed back towards the city center for a cup of coffee and a moment of rest. 

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      We sat outside a cafe in front of the cathedral listening to street performers and watching the tourists and locals pass by. I find myself finally slowing down more when I travel, and this has helped me to appreciate the places I visit. People watching and sitting amongst the locals is one of my favorite things to do in a new to me city.

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      After coffee and people watching my pal and I split off for a few hours of solo exploration. I love traveling with people who also enjoy spending time alone, it makes for the perfect balance of social time and alone time. I spent my time weaving in and out of streets I hadn’t seen, and ended my time climbing to the top of the cathedral.

      The tower climb is 330 steps high, and has views all the way to the Black Forest in Germany.

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      Despite the fact that I ate a small pizza and a pastry for breakfast (aka gluten and dairy city) I was on a roll of indulging in all the foods I’m allergic to and just kept the party train going for dinner. Strasbourg is in a region of France called Alsace, and this region is famous for something called Flammkuchen.

      Flammkuchen is a thinly rolled dough in an oval or rectangular shape similar to a flatbread, and is topped with fromage blanc or crème fraîche, thin-sliced onions and lardons. The toppings can vary slightly, but I kept mine mostly traditional with the addition of sauerkraut because…health.

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      Although I ate the entire thing, this isn’t something I would order again. The crème fraîche had an odd bite and the combo of flavors wasn’t something I preferred. I’m glad I tried it though, and we went to a local college hangout for dinner with a happy hour on Flammkuchen (and beer) so I only paid 5 euros for this.

      After dinner we made our way back to the Air B & B, walking along the canal towards the tram. We spent about 8-9 hours slowly wandering around Strasbourg which was the perfect amount of time. These close by towns make for a perfect weekend getaway.

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      Q: What’s a stereotype about another culture you crushed after experiencing the culture firsthand?

      brittany

      | 10 Comments Tagged Bakery, Brittanys Life Abroad, Europe, France, Strasbourg, Travel Abroad
    • How Are You…Really?

      Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on March 24, 2020

      I have two trips I want to share – one from the end of February, and one from just a week and a half ago, but in light of what’s going on right now in the world I think I will save those and write a post about “real” life. Before all this corona stuff I was wanting to write a little life update anyway, but I just continued to have travel posts (wow, rough life) and never got around to posting a feelings and emotions post.

      So grab a cuppa coffee, and let’s chat about the nitty gritty. 

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      This past winter hit me harder than I anticipated it would. We all struggle a bit more during the winter months, but I think being in a place where I don’t have family, and only have a couple friends to lean on made it harder for me. January marked one year of living in Germany, and while the time flew fast, it also moved like molasses at the same time.

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      One of the few snow falls this winter.

      I think it goes hand in hand with me loosening my diet (and gaining 15 pounds) causing some extra loneliness and more isolation, mixed with the dark months and less movement. I still traveled once a month, but even the travel felt wrong. I know I am not alone in the winter blues, I am just hoping I can shake them soon.

      In September I made a goal to eat more food, move my body less, and free my mind a bit in an attempt to correct a five year struggle with hypothalamic amenorrhea. In layman’s terms that means I didn’t have a period for five years. I was determined to balance my hormones and get my period back, and in December it came back.

      Eating what I wanted was OK at first, but I’ve been feeling really unwell for a while now. Food allergies are food allergies despite the motive for eating more freely. 

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      I’m stoked that I have had a consistent period for five months now, but I need to find a better way to accomplish this. I knew I was playing with fire by being extra loose with my diet, but my body can only handle so much. Food aside, I think ultimately it’s time for me to move on from working in a fast paced, high stress environment.

      My body just doesn’t like this type of work, nor does my mind.

      Due to the corona virus the hotel I work at has officially shut down for a month, but I anticipate it will be closed longer than a month. I also anticipate going back to the states soon, and at first this saddened me, but I feel ready. I can’t seem to shake this funk I am in and I think my body is telling me it’s burned out, and it’s time for a rest.

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      With spring just around the corner, the weather in Bavaria has been amazing. It bounces between sun and clouds, but the sun has been dominating lately. I’ve been trying to get outside more and ride my bike, especially because I don’t know how much longer I have to enjoy these amazing bike paths.

      Sometimes getting on my bike and zoning out for a few hours is the medicine I need for the day. 

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      I’m still working (minimal hours) doing tasks that can be done with a closed resort. Thankfully my parents taught me the power of saving money and I am in no way hurting for funds, but I am finding myself with a lot more free time. Free time is ok, but when it’s paired with social distancing it becomes harder.

      Even for an introvert like me. 

      It’s an odd reality for me, I thrive being alone, but the rules and restrictions that come with this pandemic (rightfully so) have me craving human connections more than normal. I’m really trying to sit with the discomfort that is coming during this time instead of masking it with food. I’ve been having counseling sessions with the U.S. chaplain that works nearby, and they have been so helpful for me.

      Of course, biking always helps too.

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      My bike was likely one of the best purchases I made while living in Germany, it quickly became my best friend and opened so many doors for me while I was “home” in Garmisch. I don’t run anymore, and while I still hike it doesn’t happen as much. Biking has been a lower impact way for me to still move my body without causing a Sjogren’s flare up.

      The flare ups still happen, but far less often from this kind of movement. 

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      At the end of the day, I am feeling weird. I know a big change is coming and that’s hard for me to deal with. The last year of living this lifestyle has been nothing short of life changing, and soon I will leave the only people who understand what I’ve been through. I deal with this often, because most people don’t pick up their lives and move so nomadically like I do, but just because I am used to it doesn’t make it any easier.

      On the flip side I am excited to start traveling the right way again. Never will I ever travel like I have the last year. I regret nothing, but the quickness and fast turn around of the travels I have done were too much. Being on a trip, and stressing about planning another trip is just ridiculous. There is such a thing as “too much” even with traveling.

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      With that said, I am obviously not traveling right now with corona running rampant all over the world. I am literally taking one day at a time, enjoying the area I live at the base of the alps, and trying to find small pockets of peace throughout each day. I feel really empty right now, more so after the world started to shut down, but this is part of life.

      We can’t have the highs without the lows. 

      I miss my family more than I thought I would, and I am wanting to go home. I feel like I am in a catch 22 because I want to go, but I also don’t want to travel overseas. I literally feel stuck, and while I know I am safe where I am I worry about something happening to my family. I’ve not experienced this type of emptiness in regards to my family since I was young, and I’m not sure how to process my emotions.

      For now, I have my Garmisch family to lean on. From 6ft away. 🙂

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      Photo taken just before the social distance rule.

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      ON A LIGHTER and completely unrelated note, at the end of February I went out after dark and the world didn’t stop turning. It was time for Fasching in Germany, and this year I decided to go out and dance with the locals. I even drank some gin. Who am I? You can read more about the Fasching history here.

      Along with the celebration, people dress up similar to Halloween. My roommate MaryBeth and I went to the thrift store two days before the event, found two hats, and went as Balto and Pikachu. I think my new calling is to be a professional face painter.

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      This was meant to show off my painting skills, and I don’t know how it turned into this.

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      Thankful for these humans in these weird, unknown times. This late night celebration made me feel like I felt when I was in my early 20’s. I felt free, and I realized I can and should do what I can to keep my body healthy, but I cannot live in a bubble. Sometimes we have to let our hair down (maybe a bad analogy for my hair…) and live life.

      We never know when the life as we know it will drastically change. 

      My sessions with the chaplain are challenging me to tell people how I feel…really. This will be a continuous work in progress for me, but this blog has always been a safe space for me to spill my heart. Thank you to those who have continued to read my rambles, writing truly is cathartic for me and when people read what I have to say I feel heard…really.

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      Bavaria is on lockdown, but we can still bike and hike alone. I’ve had years of practice with this.

      I know everyone is struggling from this limbo we’re in right now, but it helps to know I’m not alone. For now, I am still in Germany and don’t know when I will be coming home. One day, one hour, one minute at a time.

      Q: How are you…really?

      brittany

      | 29 Comments Tagged Biking, Brittanys Life Abroad, Fasching, Garmisch, Hiking
    • Exploring Edinburgh

      Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on March 16, 2020

      Day three in Scotland was spent exploring Edinburgh. I visited some new to me places, as well as places I had been before. Pam and I started the day with a tour of the Palace of Holyroodhouse, a new to me location where the Queen spends her time when she is in Scotland. The weather was nice while walking to Holyrood, and continued to stay nice with breaks of sun when we finished with our tour.

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      From here I ventured off solo to climb up to Arthurs Seat, something I wanted to do last time I visited Edinburgh, but did not have time for. I gave myself a window of three hours, which turned out to be two hours too many. The sky was clear as I began heading up the hill, but the higher I got the sketchier the path became.

      There were spots of thick ice, so I literally grabbed onto bushes and climbed up the sides of the path. This seems to be a theme for me. 

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      Then with the snap of a finger, the weather changed for the worse. I was more than halfway to the top and I’m too stubborn to quit, so I kept going. By the time I made it to the top the snow was so heavy I felt like I was in a small blizzard. Had I not been surrounded by handfuls of other idiots like me, I would have been more concerned.

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      Needless to say, I didn’t have a summit view and I didn’t stay at the top longer than a minute. I snapped a photo of the summit marker and quickly scooted back down unsure if the weather would continue to get worse. When I say scooted, I literally mean scooted. I crab walked down the path sliding as I went and laughing to myself imagining how ridiculous I looked.

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      Alas, in typical Scotland weather fashion the storm blew through in less than an hour, and the remainder of the day was dry with sun breaks. I was annoyed at first, but then I realized this just gave me yet another excuse to return to Scotland. As if I needed a reason to return, I’ll go back and climb this again in nicer weather.

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      After this true Scottish adventure, I headed back towards the Royal Mile to find Pam. We (and by we I mean ME) needed Kaffee und Kuchen, aka a German afternoon tradition of coffee and cake. I knew exactly where I wanted to go, it was a place I had been once before.

      A place with delicious cake, hot espresso, and one of the birthplaces of a famous novel series you might have heard of. 

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      The Elephant House is a fun cafe in Edinburgh, known for being one of the birthplaces of Harry Potter. I came for the history of the cafe, and stayed for the delicious cake. After filling our veins with sugar and caffeine we spent more time walking around the city.

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      Around 1600 Pam and I split off again and I ventured towards Calton Hill to watch the sunset.

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      For dinner, Pam and I had another grocery store picnic date in the hotel we were staying. My dinner included grilled chicken, veggies, and hummus, as well as a new to me food that Pam bought for me on our way to The Elephant House earlier in the day. I’d heard of Scotch Eggs before, but wasn’t sure what they were exactly.

      After being in the U.K for four days without consuming ANY black pudding, this was the perfect opportunity. 

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      Basically this is a hard boiled egg, wrapped in black pudding, and fried. Wow. Just wow. This was literally one of the best things I have ever eaten. My tastebuds danced like sugar plum faeries. (I’ve been doing better lately eating any and everything and handling the repercussions without spiraling. I used to get extreme anxiety if I felt my autoimmune disease flare up from something I ate, but now I just let it pass. It always passes.)

      This was a great trip to Scotland with even better company, and a perfect way to welcome turning 31. I hope to continue the tradition of spending my third decade of life in Europe for my birthday. 

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      I’m still just as in love with the U.K as I was the first time I visited in 2017. Something about this area of Europe makes me feel calm, and this trip was a long time coming for my friend Pam and I. Sometimes the universe brings people into your life you’d never expect, and Pam is that person for me. What started as a “business relationship” (I watch her adorable kitty) turned into a friendship I will cherish forever.

      Thank you to Pam for spending my birthday with me, and for coming all the way to Scotland. 

      Q: Do you have an unexpected friendship like Pam and I? 

      brittany

      | 20 Comments Tagged Brittanys Life Abroad, Coffee, Edinburgh, Harry Potter, Hiking
    • On the Banks of Loch Lomond

      Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on March 9, 2020

      Day two in Scotland was dedicated to touring around the western Highlands. I had submerged myself in the Highlands October of 2018 when I walked the West Highland Way (something I daydream of often), but this time I let someone else show me around. My friend Pam and I chose to do a full day guided tour, which was very convenient and a lot of fun.

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      Typically I like to have complete control over where I go, and I rent a car when I visit new places, but this was a nice change of pace. I had zero stress, and our tour guide Mike was a fun Scottish man with loads of information. His driving was a bit scary at times, but that’s another story. Our tour started at 0800 in Edinburgh, and we finished just before 1700.

      Our first stop was Doune Castle, a famous filming location for movies and television. Likely the most known movie filmed here was Monty Python and the Holy Grail. The Netflix series Outlander was also filmed here, as well as Game of Thrones. Basically Scotland has some epic landscapes and castles, and Hollywood has capitalized on it.

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      After wandering the castle and the nearby river path for an hour, we moved onward towards the Highlands. We made a quick stop to view Kilchurn Castle, sitting across from us on the edge of Loch Awe. We could only view this castle from afar, but it was awe-worthy indeed. A perfect name for the location.

      My photo is terrible, so I will include a professional shot. 

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      Source

      Our next stop was in a quaint little town called Inveraray. Here is where we stopped for lunch, but I brought my lunch with me which allowed me more time to explore. Pam and I parted ways for a bit at this stop, and I headed towards Inveraray Castle for a close up view. The castle was closed, but I was still able to view it from the gate.

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      Sometimes I daydream about what it was like to live in a castle in the medieval days. 

      Inveraray sits on the shores of Loch Fyne (who comes up with these names? They’re great!) and although our time spent here was during a wave of snow and wind I thoroughly enjoyed wandering this small town. After the castle I walked along the water, up to the old jail, and popped into the few shops that were open.

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      From Inveraray we began to climb. The winding roads went up, up, up leading us to a popular viewpoint known as “Rest and Be Thankful.” This spot is quite literally named as a place where travelers in olden times would stop, rest, and be thankful that they had reached the top of their steep climb, before continuing on to their destination.

      Sounds much like modern day hiking. Except hiking is less: “I must move onward for my survival,” and more: “I climb hills because I like to see the world from up high.”

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      I am not a person that typically gravitates towards snow, but the Highlands in the winter hold a magical beauty that can only be fully appreciated in person. The white contrast makes the greens, the browns, and the reds POP. The landscape is constantly changing providing constant visual stimulation.

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      Our final stop before heading back to Edinburgh was to a town called Luss, on the “Bonnie, Bonnie Banks” of Loch Lomond. Our tour guide Mike told us the history of the song Loch Lomond, which is actually quite sad. The song stems back to the Jacobite Uprising and is said to be about two soldiers, one destined for execution.

      According to Mike, the soldiers were brothers. One was scheduled for execution and at the last minute his brother volunteered to be killed so his brother could return to his family. The words: “ye’ll tak’ the high road and I’ll tak’ the low road” is saying that you will return alive, and I will return in spirit.

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      All this talk about death had me needing an emotional boost (that and it was nearing 1600), and my belly was asking me for a hit of carbs and sugar. We had 45 minutes to wander around Luss and I initially tried to find some Heilan Coo’s, but I ended up finding a small cafe with the best scones. The prize wining component?

      Clotted cream. 

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      I ate it all. Every last bit, including the butter. I ate the butter by the chunks because I didn’t dare waste it. The sugar rush that came from this decision was a bit intense, but boy was it tasty. We arrived back in Edinburgh around 1800, and I balanced out my sugar hit with some grilled chicken, hummus, and veggies from the grocery.

      Pam and I gathered our picnic style dinner, and ate in an area we designated as “our spot” of the hotel we were staying while reminiscing about the long, but wonderful day. Another unforgettable memory for the mind book. I have no affiliation with Rabbie’s Tours, but I would highly recommend them if you’re ever in the U.K. They’re professional, efficient, affordable, and informative!

      Next up: Edinburgh highlights.

      Q: Would you rather drive yourself around a new area, or allow a tour guide to take you places? As I said, I prefer driving myself, but this was a nice change of pace! 

      brittany

      | 12 Comments Tagged Brittanys Life Abroad, Highlands, Scotland
    • Stirling, Scotland

      Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on March 3, 2020

      The U.K. continues to hold a piece of my soul that no other country has quite grasped yet. Maybe it’s the friendly people, maybe it’s the beautiful countrysides, maybe it’s the amazing accents, or maybe it’s the lack of a language barrier that captivates me. Whatever it may be, I continue to feel more alive in the U.K. than anywhere in Europe.

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      For my birthday this year I took a trip to Scotland (my second time to this amazing country) and met up with my near and dear friend Pam from back home. We struggled for a bit when trying to decide on a meeting place, but after she suggested spending a few days in Scotland I knew it would be a good time.

      I had reservations about visiting Scotland in February, but the weather turned out to be mostly ok. Aside from a four hour flight delay when trying to leave Munich due to a storm rolling through the U.K. I arrived at our hotel around midnight and was ready for a good nights sleep. Another prime example that travel is not always luxurious.

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      We were to spend four nights in Edinburgh, and use this city as our home base. From here we took day trips outside of the city – starting with a trip to Stirling. I had been to Edinburgh before, but only for seven hours. I knew I’d like to return, and this was a great time to do so. I had not been to Stirling before, so I was excited to see something new.

      But first, breakfast. 

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      Side note: I tried haggis for the first time and I am not a fan. Give me black pudding all day long, but keep the haggis away. BLECH.

      Sterling is a short 45 min train ride from Edinburgh, and with a belly full of goodness (except for the haggis) we set off on our first adventure. The weather was moderate, with a rolling rotation of rain, sun, wind, and snow. This seemed to be the theme of the entire week. I didn’t hate it though.

      Our goal for the morning was a visit to Stirling Castle, but first we weaved and bobbed through the streets and cemetery of the town.

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      Stirling Castle up on the hill.

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      We were able to tag along with a free guided tour of the castle (included in our entry ticket) and the most adorable little Scottish girl walked us around and chatted about the history. I could have listened to her speak all day.

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      After a proper castle tour it was time for one of the most important activities in the U.K…tea/coffee and scones!

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      I am a SUCKER for a good scone with butter and jam, and it’s worth the repercussions every.single.time. We sat inside the castle cafe waiting for a batch of rain to pass, and soon enough the sun came out. Rain, sun, wind, snow.

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      We staying in Sterling for about five hours before heading back to Edinburgh for the remainder of the day. By the time we got back, the snow started to fall. Rain, sun, wind, snow. This first adventure set the tone for the remainder of the week…slow moving. A reminder of how I used to travel before moving to Europe.

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      Snow fall back in Edinburgh.

      Upon arrival back in Edinburgh, Pam took me on a walking tour around the city (she used to visit Edinburgh often as a flight attendant) to areas I hadn’t seen on my previous trip. We ended the day with dinner at Byron, a restaurant I had been to. This place is a good option for those with allergies/who need customization.

      I try to balance eating whatever I want with “ok but you also have allergies so chill out” when I travel. It doesn’t always work out. LOL.

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      Next up: a day trip to the Highlands.

      Q: Where is a place in the world that makes your soul come to life?

      brittany

      | 23 Comments Tagged Brittanys Life Abroad, Castle, Scotland, United Kingdom
    • Hallstatt, Austria

      Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on February 7, 2020

      90% of my posts the last year have been of my travels, and while this has been great, I do miss writing angsty, messy, real life posts. It’s hard to deviate from travel posts when I have so many places I want to share, but I am hoping to squeeze in more “this is what I am feeling” posts soon. Today is not that day, today I share my recent day trip to Hallstatt.

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      Hallstatt is a village in Austria’s mountainous Salzkammergut region. Nestled into the base of the alps, this tiny village is thought to have been inhabited by people of the Neolithic age due to the rich salt deposits inside the mountains. Regardless of who first settled in this adorable town, I knew I wanted to visit for myself. Tourists from all over flock to Hallstatt, and for good reason – it’s beautiful!

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      My roommate Marybeth and I discovered we had a day off together, and decided to rent a car and drive the three ish hours to Hallstatt for a day trip adventure. Visiting in February meant a few things: less people, cheaper car rental, less open shops, less people to fight for attention from a local cat, and very, very cold/wet weather.

      As stated in one of my Instagram posts: Das Wetter war sehr kalt, aber Hallstatt ist schön.

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      “The weather was very cold, but Hallstatt is beautiful.”

      We left Garmisch around 7am, and arrived in Hallstatt shortly after 10am. When driving into the town, there are multiple options for parking in designated lots. Parking was easy to find, and cost us under 10 euros for seven hours of exploring. We were among few other tourists visiting, allowing us to wander the streets of the small town with ease.

      Visitors can also arrive by train, and then take a short ferry ride from one side of the lake to the city center. 

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      The city center of Hallstatt is small, and easy enough to walk from one end to the other in under an hour. We stretched our time by walking up to one of the town churches, enjoying the view, walking up to a small vantage point, and of course: drinking coffee.

      Our goal for the day was simple: wander aimlessly, see what we find, and drink coffee. 

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      To the church.

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      Views from church, of another church.

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      Trail up the mountain.

      We didn’t go far up the trail by the church, partly because we were unsure of where it went (though I had a pretty good idea), but also because we didn’t have extra time for random exploration. We had discovered an ancient salt mine at the top of the mountain that we planned to visit after exploring the city center for a bit.

      I suspect the trail eventually led to the salt mine, but that’s a discovery for a later day. 

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      Partway up the trail – both churches.

      After walking around for about an hour an a half, we decided to warm our bones with some coffee. By this time it was close to noon, meaning all the other tourists (albeit there were far less than in the summer) wanted coffee and food as well. This meant the few restaurants and cafes open were busy.

      We settle on a hotel cafe, where I enjoyed a delicious Americano and Marybeth indulged in a cappuccino. 

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      After a coffee break, we made our way back towards the beginning of the city center to buy a souvenir. I don’t often find souvenirs that speak to me, but both Marybeth and I saw something that captured our hearts. Two tiny piggybanks, one with mountains for me, and one with coffee for her (mountain fund and coffee fund!)

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      Mountain pig not pictured, but these are his friends and they’re all SO CUTE!

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      And a stop in the soap shop.

      The weather was wet and moody, making for beautiful overcast photos. I made the mistake of wearing my trail shoes, and my feet were soaked shortly after we arrived. I’m no stranger to wet feet, but there is a stark difference when feet are both wet AND cold. Thankfully there was plenty of visual stimulation to keep me distracted, and then…a CAT.

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      After extreme disinterest from the cat, we made our way to the salt mine. A mountain trail leading to the top is available all year, but the woman at the ticket desk strongly advised against walking up this time of year. She looked at me like I was crazy for even asking. Instead we rode the funicular for an extra 18 euros.

      Upon arrival at the top the trail did have visible ice, so perhaps it was for the best. 

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      The salt mine tour was nothing special, in fact I didn’t much care for it (too many video presentations, didn’t look at any salt, mostly talked about an old bridge found inside and how salt is extracted…things I could have Googled.) However, the experience was worth it for the matching pajama/prison uniforms we had to wear.

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      These outfits allowed us to slide down a salt mine slide like children at the park. 

      After the tour it was 4pm, and time to head home. The lack of feeling in my toes had become too distracting, and the rumbles in our bellies heard the loud calls of the food we had waiting for us in the car. I wanted to start driving back to Garmisch before dark to beat the frigid temperatures on the road, however as we were heading down the mountain it began to snow.

      Snow and I are not friends, especially when I am driving a car (a low to the ground sports Mercedes at that) so needless to say I was tense until I saw the temperature gauge jump from 1 degree to 3.5 degrees (Celsius.) The rain was endless until we arrived back to Garmisch, allowing us to walk home after dropping off the car.

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      Hallstatt is the perfect day trip, making this UNESCO World Heritage Site a must see for travel lovers. I recommend visiting in the off season, to avoid the masses, but maybe wait until after winter. If you do go during peak season, you risk this type of atmosphere. Tourists aside, a visit to this town when the sun is shining on the lake is still on my list.

      Q: Would you rather walk up the hill to the top of the mountain, or take the funicular? 

      brittany

      | 26 Comments Tagged Austria, Brittanys Life Abroad, Hallstatt, Mountain Town, Travel Abroad, Wanderlust
    • Normandie, France

      Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on January 27, 2020

      Traveling has been the most beneficial way for me to learn about Europe, about history, and about geography. Case in point: all this time, I thought Normandie (or Normandy for us English speakers) was the name of a town in France. The town where historical events took place during WWII. Come to find out, Normandie is actually a state made up of many towns.

      I don’t claim to be geographically inclined. 

      When booking our trip to Paris, Marybeth (my roommate) and I decided we also wanted to visit Normandie to see the beaches where the D-Day landings took place. Have I mentioned I love WWII history? We booked a bed and breakfast close to the beaches, and I am still daydreaming about the carb coma I endured the morning before our beach adventures.

      Imagine a basket of breads including (homemade) croissants, rolls, and baguettes, next to a back up basket of more croissants, rolls, and baguettes.

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      The woman that ran this bed and breakfast spoke very little English, but she was as sweet as can be. She also made a damn good cup of coffee. Best coffee I’ve had since moving to Europe, and I don’t say that lightly. To accompany all these gluten filled bites of heaven, she also had fresh cheese with the most unique flavors.

      Just when I thought it couldn’t get any better, she asked if we would like some yogurt.

      Now, I’m not typically a yogurt fan. Yogurt makes my belly do flips, is loaded with sugar (if it tastes any good) and sits on shelves for who knows how long. Despite my typical aversion to yogurt something in my soul told me to say “yes” when she asked if we would like some. She brought out two clear jars (strawberry for me, peach for Marybeth) with a date written on the lid.

      OH my stars does that date signify what I think it signifies?!

      I saw this and asked her: “did you make this yogurt?” With a bright smile she replied: “Yes!” Homemade yogurt, homemade croissants, homemade cheese (this bed and breakfast was on a small farm) and damn good coffee had me feeling a type of elation that I haven’t felt in a while. I made sure to eat an apple too, because balance.

      There are few things in this world that bring me more joy than quality made food.

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      I’m not even ashamed to admit that I felt a genuine sadness when we had to leave too early to enjoy breakfast a second time. We stayed here two nights, but the second morning we had to leave at 0700 (too early for her to make this spread) to drive the four hours back to Paris to catch an afternoon flight. I am still thinking about this travesty.

      Anyway, moving on to the beaches of Normandie.

      On 6 June 1944, an amazing armada of Allied troops (British, American, Canadian and more) landed on Normandie beaches to begin the liberation of Europe from years of Nazi occupation. The planners of this crucial event for European freedom codenamed it D-Day. The Allies divided the 60-mile coastal stretch chosen for the invasion into five sectors, codenamed Sword, Juno, Gold, Omaha and Utah.

      Marybeth and I visited all five of these beaches and I will share them in the order we saw them.

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      #1: Juno Beach – Canadian invasion

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      This beach was about ten minutes from our bed and breakfast, making it stop number one. We arrived in the small town leading towards Juno Beach listening to Bonjour from Beauty and the Beast (it felt appropriate for the country.) The beach was quiet, and not a soul was walking on the sand.

      We walked out on a small boardwalk and I felt a wave of peace wash over my soul as the wind blew through my hair.

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      We spent maybe ten minutes at this area of the beach, and as we were driving to our next destination we stopped at the Canada House – the first house to be liberated during Operation Overlord. This house looks the same now (on the outside) as it did back in 1944. Juno Beach was a great first stop for our beach day. 

       

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      #2: Sword Beach – British invasion

      Stop two was at Sword Beach, where we parked the car at a small back alley parking lot. We couldn’t see any memorials, so we decided to just walk along the beach path for a bit. The weather was bouncing between rain and clear skies, and we had a brief reprieve from the wet skies when we made it to Sword Beach.

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      The houses facing the water were peculiar. They felt very Mrs. Peregrine or Lemony Snicket. They houses were beautiful in a creepy kind of way. No two house looked the same. We admired the houses as we walked the flat path, and found our way to a strip of land that was the exact location of where the British soldiers invaded France.

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      The coolest part about this memorial area was seeing a photo of a specific house from 1944 in a photograph with soldiers walking the pathway, and the exact house still standing in front of us in 2020. The windows were updated, but the house itself was the same. It was as if time stood still, even if just for a moment.

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      Then

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      Now

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      # 3: Gold Beach – British invasion

      Stop three was the center beach, known as Gold Beach. Bristish troops of the 50th infantry division took over this section of the beach and their central location allowed them to help the other beaches around them. The objectives of the 50th Division were to cut the Caen-Bayeux highway, take the small port of Arromanches, link up with the Americans from Omaha Beach to the west at Port-en-Bessin, and link up with the Canadians from Juno Beach to the east.

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      This beach has a museum, but we did not go inside. We discovered visiting the beaches of Normandie in January not only meant little to no tourists, but it also meant most museums related to the locations were closed. I’d rather visit with less people and closed museums, than with lots of people and open museums. That’s what the Google is for.

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      There is an outdoor “museum” of sorts, with plaques of information and small memorials. Recent construction has begun to erect a more formal memorial overlooking Gold Beach, and the construction plans for this place look beautiful. Perhaps one day I will return to see this completed monument.

      The area of Gold Beach we explored was further towards Omaha Beach. The section of this outdoor memorial that was most powerful (to me) was a set of blocks with quotes from a veteran.

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      The weather had taken a rainy turn during our time at Gold Beach, and the longer drive to our next destination was a welcome break from the outdoors. I was blown away by the beauty of the French countryside. I never imagined it to be so green, with a UK like vibe. I want to explore more of the countryside in France because it was breathtaking.

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      #4: Omaha Beach – American invasion 

      First and foremost, I knew the Americans were a part of the allied forces, but I did not know that France had more American pride than some of the neighborhoods in America itself. Living in Europe the last year means I don’t often see American flags, but upon arrival at Omaha Beach the American flags were seemingly endless.

      The sun came out by the time we arrived here, and this stretch of beach was unbelievably beautiful. The sand looked at if it stretched on forever. 

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      We walked towards the tide, and running in the sand and splashing in the puddles had me feeling like a kid. Upon arrival at each beach, I did a quick Google search to discover more about which allied forces were most prominent at each beach. With doing this, I also discovered that at Omaha Beach there was still an old German bunker from 1944.

      This.Was.So.Cool.

      The area we parked the car was further down from the main parking area, and this is where we got out to walk on the beach. We weren’t sure where the bunker was, but I was determined to find it. Lo and behold the bunker was right behind where we parked.

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      We spent the most time at Omaha Beach, which felt appropriate because it was here where the highest amount of casualties took place. Roughly 2400 US soldiers died while invading this sections of the beach. I felt a sense of pride for my country driving and walking around this section, and it was an honor to see how much the French appreciated what the US had done.

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      Les Braves Omaha Beach Memorial – to honor the sons, fathers, and husbands who sacrificed and endangered their lives with the hope of freeing the French.

      #5: Utah Beach – American invasion

      The fifth and final beach we visited of the Normandie beaches was Utah Beach. Utah Beach is the second of the American landing zones, and was the most successful of the five allied beaches in Normandie. Utah Beach has a memorial museum, but this was closed like the one at Gold Beach. Instead we were able to walk around and view the memorials outside.

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      The sun was setting as we made it to the final beach, and we slowly savored the final moments of daylight. It’s hard to imagine what these beaches looked like on D-Day, and it’s hard to imagine what it must have been like to be a soldier fighting for a country that wasn’t my own. A true example of humanity and bravery.

      Visiting these historical war sights have quickly become one of my favorite things about traveling.

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      I say this often, but I think it’s hugely important to remember events like this. Not only to honor those who died, but in an attempt to learn from our mistakes as humans. I may never understand how we as people can do what we do, and sadly the world we currently live in is starting to resemble the world of the past, but my hope is one day I won’t have to fear traveling to certain countries that I am not welcomed because of where I was born.

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      My only regret on this day of beach hopping, is not visiting the American cemetery. I saw the sign for it, but kept on driving. After recently watching Saving Private Ryan (I tend to watch these kinds of movies after visiting the events they were based off of) and seeing what the cemetery looked like I wish I had turned off instead of passing it by.

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      Source

      Normandie was a great end to this recent trip to France, and I only wish I had more time in the countryside. As we waited in the airport before boarding our flight back to Germany, I had to party one more time with baguettes and butter. It wasn’t nearly as good as my Normandie B&B experience, but it did the job.

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      Q: Favorite French style pastry?

      brittany

      | 11 Comments Tagged Brittanys Life Abroad, France, Normandie, WWII
    • Paris, France

      Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on January 22, 2020

      Ah Paris – the land of high fashion, old and beautiful architecture, croissants, and people. Lots, and lots of people. I booked a trip to Paris with only one goal in mind: visit Disneyland Paris. Anything else was extra, and to be honest Paris was so large it overwhelmed me. I didn’t spend much time in the city because after Disney there was only one day left to explore, so perhaps I didn’t give Paris a chance.

      With that said, I don’t see myself returning anytime soon.

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      Maybe it was the absolutely insane central train station where I had to wait multiple times to get onto a train because people were crammed so tight into the doorways the train doors struggled to shut, and when I did manage to get onto a train my backside was pressed up against the crotch of a complete stranger like a sardine in a can – maybe it was the endless tourists that flooded the streets – or maybe it was the aggressive seagulls that tainted my view of Paris (I’m not kidding, these birds were SAVAGE.)

      One may never know why I didn’t fall in love with Paris like all the other souls in this world.

      In all honesty the train situation was so unreal I couldn’t stop laughing. I literally thought I was in an episode of punk’d. There is no way that kind of train cramming can be legal. I had locals laughing with me because I just couldn’t stop. My first mistake on this trip was spending the night in the airport the night/morning of departure. I did this when I traveled to London in October, but I physically cannot do this ever again. I didn’t sleep at all, so our first day was spent sleeping.

      The view from our Air B&B was great though.

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      We chose a place near the Eiffel Tower because this was where we were catching a shuttle to Disneyland from. Come to find out this area of town is very touristy and quite frankly it was ugly. I loved the view from our flat though. After we slept for over thirteen hours, we woke up the day after we arrived and spent eight hours at Disneyland Paris. Read more about that here.

      The day after Disney we had until around 1600 to explore the city, so to maximize time we bought tickets for a hop on, hop off bus. This allowed us to briefly see all the main attractions of Paris. We only got off the bus at two spots: The Louvre, and Notre Dame. I did enjoy the island where Norte Dame lives, and wish I’d had more time there.

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      Mocking our fellow tourists.

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      Bench outside of Shakespeare and Co, one of the coolest bookshops I’ve seen.

      Other notable stops on the bus were the opera house, where the inspiration for Phantom of the Opera originated (ok that was cool), Moulin Rouge, and the Arc de Triomphe. Learning Hitler and his troops marched around this Arc was an interesting piece of historical knowledge.

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      Opera house

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      Everything was so rushed and fast while exploring Paris, I feel like there is a chance my first impression was skewed, but I also know myself and I know I don’t like big cities. I would like to have had time to find a small neighborhood cafe on the outskirts of the shopping and tourists to enjoy a croissant with coffee, alas I had a date with a crammed train to get to the airport to pick up a rental car for the second half of my trip to France.

      More on that in my next post. 

      The morning before we toured around on the bus was quite nice, and we walked to a local bakery for croissants and coffee. On the way we passed an outdoor market where I bought two apples. The man that sold me the apples spoke broken English, enough to ask where we were from. I always tell people I’m from Canada, and he was delighted by this.

      France and Canada are homies. 

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      Next to the bakery where we bought breakfast there was a Starbucks. I haven’t bought a Starbucks since I moved to Europe last January, but I was in need of reliable coffee. It was the best decision I had made in regards to coffee all week. We enjoyed our Air B & B view with quiet stillness the morning before rushing off for the busy day of sightseeing.

      The slow, quiet moments are what I long for when traveling. A lot of the travel I’ve done the last year has been very fast and rushed. It’s the name of the game when you go somewhere once a month with only 5-6 days to do so (including two of those for travel.) I have learned I am better off visiting one place on these trips, but I never do that. I always think I can cram something else into the trip which ends up leaving me exhausted and never really letting my nervous system calm down.

      I learn a lot while traveling, like what I do and don’t like, and I look forward to traveling after I am done working in Germany when I can truly soak in the places I visit. Perhaps these teasers are just to let me know where I’d like to return. All in a days work.

      Q: Have you been to Paris? If so, what did I miss (aside from like…everything.)

      brittany

      | 35 Comments Tagged Brittanys Life Abroad, France, Paris
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