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  • Tag: Olympic Mountains

    • Glines Canyon Spillway Overlook

      Posted at 11:00 AM by Brittany, on March 27, 2023

      A handful of weeks ago one of my coworkers talked about a recent hike she had done, and it was a place I had never heard of. The photos she shared were beautiful, and I knew it was a trail I wanted to experience for myself. What I didn’t know was the backstory of this trail, and how I would find myself in some type of post apocalyptic looking landscape that fueled my spirit for adventure in more ways than one.

      Get ready for a brief history lesson. Just a few paragraphs, bear with me.

      The Glines Canyon Overlook provides a modern view of what used to be one of two dams providing energy for the Olympic Power Company – which in turn helped to provide energy for a pulp mill based out of Port Angeles, Washington. The dam was supplied by The Elwha River, which happened to be home to some of the richest runs of salmon outside of Alaska. This second dam was finished in 1927, and business was booming, but without a fish passage within the walls of the dam the salmon were left with just five miles of accessible habitat from the mouth of the river.

      That doesn’t leave much room for baby making spawning grounds.

      Inside of canyon with old parts of the dam walls.

      It took decades to make any kind of change, but by 1980 the salmon population was threatened all across the PNW, and by 1992 the issue was settled by passing The Elwha River Ecosystem and Fisheries Restoration Act. This allowed full control over both the Glines Canyon Dam and The Elwha Dam (the other of the two) to be granted to the US Department of Interior. They could then enact the necessary actions for restoration of The Elwha River fisheries.

      The Elwha Dam was removed in 2011, and the Glines Canyon Dam in 2014. The previous lake like body of water held back by the dam is now a rushing river through an old concrete slab. The dam’s have been removed, but the restoration process is still ongoing. The National Park Service is continually working with a local tribe and other partners to ensure The Elwha River is fully restored. OK, history lesson over…

      Overlook view.

      SO. What does all this dam salmon talk have to do with my hike? What was once a fully functioning and drivable road to view the overlook of the old Glines Canyon Dam – is now a skeleton of its former self. In 2015 a section of this road was washed out due to a storm, and while restoration attempts were made, this section of the road is completely inaccessible by car to this day.

      If you want to see the overlook, you are going to have to walk (or bike.)

      While I knew we would be walking on a road to get to the overlook, I had no idea it was because the road had been washed out. The hike starts at the Madison Falls parking area, and a short, moderately steep bypass trail took us around the washed out section. This is the only area of the hike within the woods adjacent to the road, but I enjoyed walking on the old road significantly more. Strictly for the abandoned buildings and overgrown brush.

      Hence the apocalyptic vibes.

      Unoccupied Elwha Ranger Station

      One of many surrounding abandoned buildings.

      Old signage next to two vehicles unable to exit back to civilization.

      We spent some time wandering around the old abandoned camp ground and NPS buildings before continuing on towards the overlook. This felt like a minor step back in time, and while the washout and the dam deconstruction were relatively recent, this was a unique walk through some historical spaces. The river was beautiful shades of blue and green and the road went on for miles.

      The road continues on past the overlook, most notably to the Olympic Hot Springs, but my old lady body was having terrible back pain on this hike, so we called it at the overlook.

      Supermodel in the wild.

      Once we made it to the overlook we pulled out our camp chairs to sit and savor the view. There are still multiple interactive signs to read up there, as well as an old speaker box that plays the remnants of a womans voice giving historical information. The audio is chopped, and seems to repeat the same words, adding to the slightly creepy yet fascinating vibe.

      This is an adventure that will stick with me for a while. The hike which could technically be more of a walk only covers around 800 feet of elevation and we walked 8 miles total, but the background and unexpected ghost town we were able to discover made this one of the most unique experiences I have had in a while. Either I need to get out more, or this was truly one for the books.

      Next time, I want to bring my bike. I can only imagine what other discoveries I can uncover with two wheels. Getting it through the bypass trail will be my only hurdle. A challenge I will happily accept.

      Ghost town gas.

      I am thankful spring has sprung, and I am hopeful with the warmer days I can embark on more of these new to me adventures in my home state. I wonder if and when the washed out road will be fixed, or if The Elwha Ranger Station will be used again in the future. I’m stoked I was able to see it in its current state, anything inaccessible by car is all the more worth seeing when you arrive.

      Q: What’s your most recent unique adventure?

      | 35 Comments Tagged Glines Canyon, Hiking, Olympic Mountains, PNW
    • Mount Angeles

      Posted at 5:00 AM by Brittany, on August 15, 2022

      One of my pals just bought a new Subaru Outback. Naturally when one buys an adventure mobile such as this, adventure is put onto the radar almost immediately. I was happy to oblige when she asked me to go for a hike with her, and we had plans to go for a mild, chill elevation hike last week just to get the feet moving.

      Then the tables turned and I couldn’t have been more pleased with the outcome.

      I have been craving, longing for, pining and whining to get my feet onto an epic hike all summer, and I finally did just that. I haven’t always been the best at last minute changes to a plan, I like to have an idea of what I need to prepare for, but as I have gotten older I have been working on morphing more into a human like flubber so that I can bend and roll with what’s thrown my way.

      A work in progress, but a progress nonetheless.

      A group of pals from work had a hike in the works, and when they asked me to join I didn’t think twice. It helped that I was in the peak energy and social phase of my cycle (ladies, I cannot stress enough tracking your cycle and knowing how your body works throughout the entirety of it!) We planned to meet at 0600 for an early start at the Hurricane Ridge location of Olympic National Park.

      This area fills up quick on weekends, so an early start is a must.

      Our plan was to hike Mount Angeles, a new to me trail with recent bear sightings and a scramble at the summit. What could possibly go wrong? Fortunately for us nothing went wrong, and the trail was mosey and mild for the first couple miles, allowing the entire group to stick together. When we started the hike we could see our destination at the end, although in the beginning I had no idea the curved peak was our summit.

      There were six of us total, and we kept a nice pace walking along chatting about the awe and wonder around us, the possibility of wildlife sightings, and the amount of sunscreen our pal Chris had accidentally put on. His entire body looked like the face of a mime. At least he would not be getting burned. We eventually came to a fork where the left had a drastically steep start, and we were not sure if it was the correct path despite the map telling us it was.

      So we went right instead.

      After ten minutes of going down, down, down, we realized we had gone onto a different path heading to a different destination, and four out of six of us decided we wanted to go back and try the path to the left. We headed back to the fork, waved goodbye to the other two, while four remaining hikers trekked on into the wilderness, hopeful for new sights, sounds, and smells.

      I had the idea of a “scramble” in my head, but I wasn’t sure what exactly that entailed. The four of us slowly made our way up the mountain and it was certainly more steep than the first half of the hike, but nothing was unmanageable. We took it slow and only one person passed us coming down. I asked if he made it up the scramble and he said yes.

      He advised to keep to the left, that it was longer but easier, and while I appreciated the input I didn’t anticipate I would be crawling up a rock wall.

      The closer we got the more we realized the landscape difference between what we had been hiking and what must be the scramble portion of the trail. We all decided then that we would hike to just below the scramble and call it. We made it to a beautiful open meadow where two of the girls stopped, but I had to touch the trees at the very base of the scramble.

      I had to go the final 100 ft before I no longer felt comfortable.

      As I sat at my chosen summit, the other two decided to join and we all savored the views before turning back to the parking lot. The summit provides a panoramic view of the entire range around us, but I was happy with the views we had. The climb was a little too vertical for me with no designated path. Maybe one day I will enjoy the idea of a scramble. I would be fine crawling up, it’s the coming back down that scares me.

      After admiring some local marmots, we made our way back to the fork where we hoped to find the other two members of our party. Turns out our hour and a half detour was a bit longer than everyone expected and the other two made their way back to the parking lot. The views from the lot were just as awe inspiring meaning everyone left happy that day. This hike was just what I needed to bring my soul to life, even if just for a few hours.

      I’m thankful for good friends with a zest for life, and I cannot wait for more adventures in my friends new Subaru.

      Q: Would you crawl up the scramble?

      | 27 Comments Tagged Hiking, Mount Angeles, Olympic Mountains, PNW, REI
    • Duckabush River Trail

      Posted at 5:00 AM by Brittany, on March 1, 2021

      When I first started hiking more consistently in 2014, I spent most of my time exploring the Cascades of Washington State. I dabbled a bit in the Olympics, but not nearly as much as the Cascades. My first consistent hiking partner lived in Seattle, an area much closer to the Cascades, so I would meet him in the city and we would go from there.

      Occasionally he would come to my side of the water where the Olympics are, but we both felt more of a draw towards the Cascades.

      Then my hiking partner moved, I couldn’t find any other willing participants, and I began hiking alone. My mountain range of choice was still the Cascades, because somehow I felt more comfortable hiking there alone. In the beginning of my solo hiking endeavors I spent a lot of time on trails I was already familiar with, but eventually explored some new to me trails as well.

      Fast forward many years, and I have spent more time in the Olympics this past month than I did in all of 2014.

      I have managed to weasel my way into a somewhat consistent group of hiking pals, and these adventures have quickly become a highlight of my week. I have recently seen three new areas of the Olympics, places I would never go if I were alone. There is something deep, and vast about the Olympics.

      This isn’t a bad thing, but there is an eerie energy about these mossy trees and muddy trails that give the feeling of complete isolation.

      In a group setting the strong sound of a raging river, or the absolute silence of wide open woods is welcomed. Alone, these auditory stimulations are a quick reminder of just how small we are in these endless mountains of trees and terrain. I have shared a few photos from my hikes the last month in previous posts, but today I share a proper trail report.

      The latest mountain adventure took my pals and I to the Duckabush River Trail, a 10.5 mile moderately rated hike deep in the heart of the Olympics. The early bird not only catches the worm, but also catches a good parking spot. Although hiking in the winter months on less populated trails will also help with that. All of the hikes I’ve done the last month have had little to no other humans around for miles.

      I’m stoked to have friends who also believe in the power of an early start, it can be like pulling an abscessed tooth with some people convincing them to get a head start.

      This trail starts out mostly flat with a bit of a down hill grade, weaving in and out of large lichen covered trees and a few small stream crossings. Despite the fact we were hiking in February, the trail conditions were excellent. Nothing a good pair of waterproof shoes cannot combat. It’s somewhat comical to think I have been hiking for as long as I have, and only recently purchased a pair of waterproof shoes.

      I still wear trail runners though, because I am adamantine with footwear and cannot commit to the extreme discomfort of a hiking boot.

      The weather was moody and wet for the first half of our hike, and despite the trail name there was only a small section that hugged parallel with the river. The terrain was ever-changing and the cooler temps were a welcomed reprieve when we reached some quick, but steep switchbacks bringing us to an expansive view of the valley below.

      I’m much quicker when the external temperature is cold, I give off heat like a personal portable furnace.

      Our first vantage point was a large rock fit for baby Simba, and we stopped to appreciate the view. After the switchbacks to this rock the trail is moderate again, moving onto the backside of the mountain we had just climbed. Endless rows of burned trees guided us down towards our destination next to the river. We encountered a small amount of snow on the backside of the hike, but nothing my Salomon trail runners couldn’t handle.

      Upon arrival at the river we sat and savored a snack before making the trek back to the car.

      The sit at the river brought my core temperature lower than comfortable, and I was quite chilly as we ate our snacks. As if by the Grace of God when we started our walk back the clouds dispersed and the sun came out to play. We were much quicker on the way back, per usual, and managed to finish the hike in a little over six hours. I appreciate the desire to stop and savor the views along the way, as well as the focus to get back to the car after we’ve seen all there is to see.

      This group of pals reminds me of the three solid guy friends I hiked with regularly while I was living in Yellowstone, one of which was my absolute savior during those intense but amazing months in the wilderness.

      When the spring and summer months arrive, I plan to spend more time in the Cascades. The sweeping peaks of those mountains are a welcomed challenge, one that will remind me of how fortunate I am to have found a balance in living life with an autoimmune disease. Each day brings forth new challenges, but I have dialed down what I need in order to keep up with these three hooligans, or any others I embark into the mountains with.

      Until then, I will relish in these lowland hikes through the woods of the Olympics. A forest unlike any other I have seen.

      Q: Are you a fan of winter hiking?

      | 27 Comments Tagged Hiking, Olympic Mountains, PNW, Washington
    • Lena Lake – Getting My Feet Wet

      Posted at 5:00 AM by Brittany, on April 19, 2017

      Lately my hiking adventures have taken me places I’ve already been before. There’s nothing wrong with this, but I have missed the excitement that comes with seeing a new trail for the first time. When I go on solo hikes I prefer going to trails I am familiar with, but sometimes a hike with a friend is what the soul needs.

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      My favorite way to catch up with friends is by submerging ourselves in the woods. Jessica and I headed to the Olympic Mountains a couple weeks ago and hiked our way to Lena Lake. This trail is popular, due it its gentle elevation gain (only 1300′) and beautiful lake, but I was jazzed to find it wasn’t overly packed.

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      The hike is 7.2 miles RT, and thanks to the ease of the climb it only took us about three hours. I enjoyed the hike so much I went back the following weekend for a solo hike. What I love most about the Olympic Mountains is that even when you find yourself at a popular trail, you are fully submerged in the woods and can go miles without seeing anyone else.

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      These are a common find in the Olympics. Not sure what the story is. 

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      I was amazed to find how much the trail changed in one week. When Jessica and I went there was water covering nearly 80% of the trail. I was fortunate for my waterproof shoes, although they gave me a gnarly blister. Nothing a bunch of ferns can’t help.

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      When I went back for my solo adventure the water was nearly gone, and the areas of rushing rapids had completely dried up. This makes me so excited for summer hikes. The perfect trail for getting back in hiking shape, this trail allowed me to get my feet wet literally and metaphorically.

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      This is from the first hike, on the second hike all that water was GONE. Like magic.

      The first half of the trail brought us on a winding series of switch backs. The colors of green were so intensely vibrant and lush, thanks to our long and wet winter here in Washington. I was in awe of the freshness they provided the air, my lungs couldn’t get enough.

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      Once we passed this bridge (which I was obsessed with) the switchbacks became less prominent as we climbed closer and closer to the lake. A handful of people were at the lake each time I went, and when I’m on a solo hike the sight of other humans is appreciated.

      The first trip to the lake we found snow atop the far off trees. 

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      The following week the snow was nearly gone. Seven days later, seven days closer to summer, seven days worth of higher temperatures. Above photos are the first week, below shot is the following week.

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      Oh look, no snow! 

      Jessica and I spent a solid chunk of time at the lake while we waited for her Jet Boil to heat some water. While we waited, we made friends with the locals. I’ve only ever had a Grey Jay close to my hands once, and there was an apple core between us.

      imageimage

      This time, I tried to let them land on my palm, but I panicked and they flew off. The result was an extremely flattering photo of me. We can’t all be modern day Snow White’s.

      Maybe next time. 

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      I felt the talons wrap around my fingers, and I impulsively screamed. I had no control over the sounds. Or this face.

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      This hike was great, definitely one to add to the list for all types of hikers. Perfect balance of nature and sweat. I’ll be back for both solo and accompanied hikes. For real adventure seekers, the trail continues onto Upper Lena Lake, a 14 mile RT (3900′ gain) trail, as well as to The Brothers, a 13.2 RT (6050′ gain – woof) trail.

      Next time I go I’d like to camp at Upper Lena. Stay tuned for that adventure. 

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      Q: Would you let a Gray Jay land on your hand? 

      brittany

      | 56 Comments Tagged Explore, Gray Jay, Hike, Lena Lake, Olympic Mountains
    • Talapus and Olallie Lakes

      Posted at 5:00 AM by Brittany, on October 27, 2016

      Washington has had rain on the radar for the last week or so, but on the not so rare occasion the forecast is wrong (aka it’s always wrong) I take advantage of the incorrect report. Last weekend, October decided to play nice and remind me why it’s my favorite month.

      Crisp and cold air, with bright shining sun.

      Where’s the best place to go on a chilly yet sunny day? The mountains, for a lake hike. One lake is like a pancake, two lakes is like a waffle. I like waffles more than pancakes so when I find a hike that gives me not only one lake, but TWO within the adventure I’m sold!

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      Social media never ceases to amaze me in its ability to bring people together. After many months of following each other on Instagram, Cailey and I met in real life a few weeks ago. She was just the spunky, upbeat hiking companion I was looking for, and she and I embarked on this quest together.

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      Did I mention how amazing Washington is during the fall? This trail was very mild, which was a welcomed change from some of my typical hikes. 6.2 total miles and a modest 1,200ft elevation gain allowed my mental focus to soak in the trees around me and digest the conversations about food, dogs, and life.

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      It didn’t take long to arrive at the first lake, and it showed up sooner than expected. I almost didn’t see it tucked down to the left of the trail, but after walking towards the opening trees I was enamored.

      A horseshoe like view with a dip in the middle of the mountain gave an awe worthy sight. A man and woman were to the left of us, enjoying a snack with their dog. If it weren’t for them, I’d not have realized this was the first lake. Often times on these hikes there are mini “lake like” bodies of water scattered among the trail, and I almost mistook this for one of those.

      img_1050-1

      In order to get the above photo I had to billy goat my way across a handful of wet logs. I saw my life flash before my eyes multiple times, and by my life I mean my body soaked from lake water. #worthit. I’ve perfected the billy goat, reminds me of this adventure…

      img_1059-1

      Another mile and some change up the path led to the other lake of the day. One thing I love about this area of trails is that there are many paths that intertwine together, making for endless possibilities. I had to laugh when I saw the sign that pointed towards Pratt Lake, also known as “the lake I thought I may die at.” #dramatic

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      I plan to go back to Pratt Lake someday, but this trip was dedicated to finding Olallie Lake. At no point on this hike did I loose my breath to the point of not being able to speak, but my heart rate elevated a few times and my clothes needed a good wash when I came home.

      I sweat at the drop of a hat.

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      Sunshine says summer, jacket says fall. 

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      A beautiful day in the mountains with exceptional company. Filling my lungs with the open air and surrounding my sights with green sets me up for a week of success.

      Q: Would you balance on rickety logs to get a better photo?

      atterned-n

      | 46 Comments Tagged Explore, Hike, Lake, Olallie Lake, Olympic Mountains, PNW, Talapus Lake
    • Mount Zion

      Posted at 6:30 AM by Brittany, on April 12, 2016

      After searching for Mount Zion on the Google, I discovered this is a hugely popular name for a mountain. There is a Mount Zion in Illinois, Michigan, Georgia, California, Washington, and Jerusalem. While I’d rather have explored the hills of the latter location, I ventured to none other than Mount Zion in Washington.

      img_7876-1

      A new to me climb, this short and relatively easy hike was somewhat hard to find. I always make a pit stop at the ranger station and ask for directions to unfamiliar territories, and to use the bathroom. I drink a lot of water.

      img_7879-1

      The head ranger was on a bike run to the post office (small town living – I love it) and the ranger left behind was new. Like, brand new. He was unfamiliar with the area so I tried my best at following a drawn map, but as a woman I prefer verbal directions with step by step turns. Trying to follow drawn out lines and squiggles is like trying to decipher what Jabba the Hutt is saying without subtitles.

      img_7878-1

      After an hour of driving the area (and finding lovely sights along the way) we finally found our destination.

      This climb will be a fantastic addition to my solo hike list. The trail follows a ridge like edge with views of the surrounding mountains, all while maintaining a secluded canopy from the trees. The final view is only visible to those that can channel their inner billy goat. A scramble up a semi awkward rock provides a beautiful panoramic view of the surrounding hills.

      Oh me, oh my.

      img_7875-1

      Life doesn’t always go smooth, and we usually don’t have written directions for how things are supposed to be done. Life maps often look like a series of hieroglyphics and I was born in an era that uses words over pictures.

      Instead of focusing on the troubles of getting lost, it’s up to us to focus on the journey along the way. All we have is now, so why dwell on what we don’t have?

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      Post climb and life reflection I had a void in my stomach that could be filled by none other than Vietnamese food. My third time in one week. I have no shame.

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      My theme for this week is to stop focusing on problems I cannot fix. Without hoops of fire to jump through life would be rather boring, don’t you think?

      Q: Do you choose to enjoy the journey, or focus too much on the future? I’m all about the now.

      b

      | 67 Comments Tagged Explore, Hike, Mount Zion, Olympic Mountains, Vegan
    • Mount Walker – Summer Sun

      Posted at 6:44 AM by Brittany, on June 12, 2015

      The weather in Washington is starting to look like summer. The days are hot, and the lack of AC in most places means for sticky, sweaty conditions.

      Check that sweat curl of hair. Earned it.

      Check that sweat curl of hair by my face. Earned it.

      My fellow coffee slangin’ brotha from anotha and I escaped to the mountains on Wednesday after work, and by the time we got there it was 80 and humid.

      Thank God for the canopy cover of trees because it was H O T. The once snow capped mountains off yonder were as blue as a Southern crowned pigeon.

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      As always, the view at the top made the steep grade worth ever step. Summer hikes are some of my favorite, simply because they are the most rewarding. Great things in life don’t usually come easy, and hiking is a perfect example of this.

      The hike here at Mount Walker is another one of my favorite solo climbs. If you squint real hard, you may be able to see Mt.Rainier in all her glory in the upper/middle left corner of the photo below. Any hike that highlights her beauty is a favorite of mine.

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      Once upon a midnight dreary I thought I wanted to move away from Washington. How sad that would have been, I cannot imagine myself without these mountains.

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      The journey down the mountain is almost always filled with thoughts of the day, thoughts of the views, and thoughts of food. Actually, the entire hike is usually mixed with thoughts of food let’s be real.

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      I must have been extra hungry coming down this mountain, because my first thought upon seeing the above photo was food related. They look like some kind of red asparagus species, don’t you think? I tried to look it up, but couldn’t quite find it.

      The wild asparagus like plant sparked a fire in my stomach that could not be put out until fed. This inspired the most random food haul.

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      Which turned into this.

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      And the world spins madly on.

      Note to self: Buying a pea shoot plant was the best idea you’ve had all week.

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      Q: What’s the weather like in your neck of the woods?

      b

      | 67 Comments Tagged Explore, Hike, Mount Walker, Olympic Mountains, Vegan, Washington
    • Random Things

      Posted at 9:40 AM by Brittany, on September 5, 2014

      What happens when I have random pictures/things to talk about, but haven’t blogged in a week? You get random pictures tied to random things to talk about. What can I say, I’m living life. I’m also going to Disneyland with this babe in less than a week and about split my pants I’m so excited. Or maybe that’s from the cookies…but I digress.

      — Anniversary Blend has officially been released at Starbucks. Fall is coming, & I am so ready.

      All you haters can just stuff it because summer is done in my book, DONE! Bring on the crunchy leaves, apple pies, Halloween Joe-Joe’s, pumpkin patches, windy runs, and enough squash to fill a dump truck. Which is what I assume my backside will look like from all the Joe-Joe’s and pie I plan to consume. Winter hibernation starts now.

      I'm legit obsessed with this blend. Buy some NOW.

      I’m legit obsessed with this blend. Buy some NOW.

      — Remember that summer biology class I took?

      It left me with a bizarre obsession for any and all species of lichen. Now whenever I spot some on a hike I become entranced as if they have some kind of mind altering properties.

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      Usnea – used for antibiotic and anti-fungal treatments.

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      — I’m ready for fall, but still soaking up tank top hikes.

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      Marmot Pass – 10.6 round trip miles, 6000ft elevation.

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      "Does this look as awkward as if feel?" "yes."

      “Does this look as awkward as if feels?”
      “yes.”

      — I don’t know who Levi is, but he’s got some pretty sweet wheels. I want to go for a ride.

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      — I’ve been sitting on a secret for about 7 weeks now.

      More on this later...

      More on this later…

      — I made this bread, and it basically ruined my life. So good.

      Not my photo, I was much too busy stuffing my suck to take my own.

      Not my photo, I was much too busy stuffing my suck to take my own.

      I apparently didn’t have as much to share as I thought. On that note I’m off to run/eat more bread.

      Q: Who wants to sit on top of a mountain eating chocolate bread and drinking Anniversary Blend with me? Bueller….Bueller…

      atterned-n

      | 57 Comments Tagged Coffee, Explore, Hike, Marmot Pass, Olympic Mountains, Random, Run, Starbucks, Vegan
    • BRITTANY- Self proclaimed minimalistic nomad striving to maintain a balanced, healthy life with good food, long bike rides, deep connections, exploration, and lots of cucumbers.
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