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    • Brașov, România – Pt. 1

      Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on May 1, 2020

      The final stop on my Romanian tour, was to the Transylvanian town of Brasov. Brasov is considered to be the heart of Romania. It is one of the most important economic and cultural cities in the country. Settled along one of the oldest trade routes between Wallachia, Moldavia and Transylvania, this beautiful city is full of history, mystery, and traditions.

      The drive to Brasov crosses the Carpathian Mountains through the Timis and Prahova valleys. The city is placed in the inner Carpathian curve, at the foot of Tampa Mountain.

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      Our Air B & B in Brasov couldn’t have been more perfect. A five minute walk from the market, five minute walk from Tampa Mountain, and a ten minute walk to the center of town. Not to mention the interior was aesthetically pleasing and cozy.

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      We arrived in Brasov around 1400, and unlike our arrival in Bucharest, I wanted to explore the area right away. My roommate stayed back and enjoyed the apartment to herself for a bit, and I headed towards Tampa Mountain. I wanted to get an idea of where the trail was that led to the Brasov Sign, a popular hiking destination (think Hollywood- but Brasov.)

      I found the trail, as well as another furry friend. Brasov was no exception to the “cats are everywhere” rule, and I was living for it.

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      Brasov sign on the hill.

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      As you can see in the above photo, Brasov is a walled in city. The path along the base of Tampa Mountain provides a sizeable view of the medieval protective barrier. I have been to a handful of walled in cities, but Brasov is one of the most in tact I have seen (along with Rothenburg.)

      Upon first glance from a slight elevation, Brasov’s walled in buildings looked overwhelming, but upon exploration I quickly learned it was an easy city to navigate.

      After my premature exploration, I settled into our Air B & B for the evening to prepare for the following day. We had two days in Brasov, and we originally planned to do a free walking tour with the same company we tagged along with in Bucharest, however we caught the company on their last day for the unforeseeable future while in Bucharest.

      Thankfully we found Diana, (a local woman) through another website who was giving free walking tours, and she did a great job. 

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      View of city from one corner of the wall.

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      Before we met up with the tour we stopped by a local coffee shop for a hit of caffeine, which was conveniently located next to a local bakery, where we stopped for a hit of sugar. The americano at Velo Coffee was good, but the barista who made it was great. A beautiful Romanian man as kind as butter is smooth.

      The decorations inside of Velo were just my style, and if I were a local I could easily sit inside for hours working on blog posts.

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      I literally had no idea what this cake was, some kind of chocolate coconut called “Negresa”, and it was divine.

      Our tour began in The Council Square, a beautiful location where I later enjoyed an authentic Romanian dinner. We arrived early with time to kill, and noticed there was a smaller, but just as beautiful branch of Cărturești Carusel across from the square.

      We went in for a glance, and I was transported back to the fairytale land of adventure and mystery.

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      Council Square

      Unsure of how the turnout for our tour would be, I was pleasantly surprised to discover a total of eleven people accompanying Diana for two hours walking around the interior and exterior walls of Brasov. Diana talked about things we had already learned, like communism, the three regions of Romania, and Romania’s most popular dishes.

      Overall, it was nice to have someone guide us in and out of the streets with specific history that related to Brasov, and Diana was one of the kindest people I have ever met. She invited us to ask her questions both before and after the tour (in her own spare time) with regard to Brasov. We were lucky to find her for this tour and as with everything else we experienced, her tours ended shortly after our visit due to the Coronavirus.

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      One of my favorite places on our tour was a street I later visited for a second time on my own to fully soak in the experience, called Strada Sforii (or Rope Street.) This is the most narrow street in Brasov, and was originally used as a corridor for firemen to use. Now the street is simply a tourist attraction filled with multicolored walls, and “so and so was here” like graffiti.

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      Other honorable mentions during this walking tour of the city were all the walls of graffiti, which added a type of charm. Brasov was worlds different from Bucharest with regard to the residual “run down” vibe of the communist times. Brasov has a medieval feel, with less sketchy buildings that look as if they could collapse with the force of a sneeze.

      And of course, no tour would be complete without the sighting of more Romanian felines. 

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      Our tour ended in time for me to grab a bite to eat before heading up Tampa Mountain for a closer look at the Brasov sign. More on that and on our final morning in Brasov before heading back to Bucharest in my next post. 🙂

      Q: Do you find graffiti charming, or destructive? 

      brittany

      | 15 Comments Tagged Brasov, Brittanys Life Abroad, Romania
    • Transylvania Tour

      Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on April 28, 2020

      After spending some time in Bucharest, my roommate and I went off on an adventure north to Transylvania. I, like most people, associate Romania with Transylvania – the mystical home of Dracula the legendary vampire, created by author Bram Stoker in his 1897 novel of the same name.

      Though Dracula is a purely fictional creation, Stoker named his infamous character after a real person who happened to have a taste for blood: Vlad III, Prince of Wallachia or as he is better known: Vlad the Impaler. The morbid nickname is a testament to the Wallachian prince’s favorite way of dispensing of his enemies.

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      I would argue the real Dracula’s taste for blood was much worse than the fictional character. According to one of our tour-guides in Bucharest, Vlad would take a stake, coat it with pigs fat, and impale his victims between the buttocks. I will spare you the details, as they are quite gruesome, but if you are up for the cringe you can read more in this article.

      Dracula history aside, Bran Castle (in the town of Bran) is a must see. The castle sits atop a hill looking over the city below, and the inner courtyard is one of the loveliest I’ve seen. The town itself is quite small, and the castle is what brings in most people. We were lucky we visited Bran on the day we did, because the next day the castle closed due to the Coronavirus.

      Our walking tour in Bucharest also had to close the day after we partook. We were literally one day ahead of everything closing. 

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      As a result of Corona starting to spread, there were little to no tourists in any of the cities we visited in Romania. Going in March likely helped as well, March is not a hugely popular travel month. Dracula’s castle was the only thing “I had to see” when I decided to visit Romania, and I am thankful I made it just in time.

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      The path leading towards the castle takes you through a mini market of sorts, with vendors selling local products like cheese and meat, as well as handmade items. This was something I noticed driving into Transylvania, handfuls of vendors along the sides of the road selling items like honey, alcohol, and trinkets.

      I saw three cats and three dogs in Bran. The dogs were in a pack, and the cats were each on their own (naturally – which is why cats are my spirit animal.) My favorite cat was the below photographed scowling puss who was going in and out of the castle restaurant like he owned the place.

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      Bran Castle was a bucket list visit for me, but arguably superior to Bran is Peleș Castle, a Neo-Renaissance castle in the Carpathian Mountains, near Sinaia. Sinaia is technically about 31 miles from Transylvania – but it’s close enough to be included in this post. Peleș Castle was the summer home of King Carol I (whom I briefly mentioned in my previous post) and I have never, ever, seen ANYTHING like it.

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      The town of Sinaia is a mountain town, and this town convinced me I needed to return to Romania someday for hiking. The castle is tucked into the mountainous woods, with an immaculate view of the surrounding landscapes. I regrettably didn’t go inside this castle, because we visited Peleș Castle before going to Bran, and I didn’t want to miss my opportunity to go inside Bran.

      In hindsight, we would have had time for both, but alles gut. 

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      King Carol I

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      I did spend more time wandering the exterior of Peleș than Bran, which felt endless. The grounds are also home to Pelisor Castle, a smaller version of Peleș with more of a German texture style if you ask me. Peleș also has a bit of German influence with the criss cross lines on the exterior. Only makes sense with a German king.

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      Both castles were 10/10 visits, and the moment time travel is figured out I plan to go back to King Carol I times to visit his summer home with him. I did say he was a babe after all, and Peleș Castle is almost as beautiful as he was. 😉

      Q: What’s the most unique castle you’ve ever visited (or seen in photographs if you haven’t been to a castle?) Peleș Castle is officially the most unique castle I’ve seen thus far.

      brittany

      | 17 Comments Tagged Bran Castle, Brittanys Life Abroad, Dracula, Europe, Peleș Castle, Romania, Transylvania
    • București, România

      Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on April 25, 2020

      I was fortunate enough to squeeze in one final trip before the world started to shut down in the middle of March, and my last adventure was to Romania. I know I have said certain countries weren’t on my radar before, but really and truly I never imagined I would visit Romania. I can confidently say I will return, solely for the purpose of getting lost in the mountains, but today we will talk about Romania’s capital city, Bucharest.

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      We’ll start at the beginning, when my roommate and I left our room at 0500 to catch a bus to the Munich airport. I didn’t sleep well the night before, and my body ended up having a bit of a Sjögren’s flare with all the travel. Thankfully our Air B & B in Romania (pictured above) was an amazing sight for tired eyes.

      But before we made it to the Air B & B, we had to get our rental car.

      This was a comical encounter – as we had asked for a small car and were given a van. A VAN. My roommate was the first driver on this trip, but navigating a somewhat busy city in a small bus was something that triggered anxiety in us both. Me as a passenger, her as a driver. Thankfully we found our Air B & B fairly easily and decided to spend the remainder of the day inside – sleeping.

      Pro tip: don’t just pick a cheap place to sleep, pick a place you actually want to be inside just incase you arrive and need to rest.

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      We had one full day in Bucharest (after our arrival day), so our plan was to tag along with two free walking tours. One in the morning, and one in the afternoon. Walking tours are my favorite way to see a city when I have limited time. Bucharest is full of history, but one of the first things we noticed about this city was how run down it looked.

      In the early 20th century, Bucharest came to be known as the “Paris of the east” thanks to its Art Nouveau architecture and grand municipal buildings, often French-designed. This architecture is now mixed with utilitarian buildings left behind from decades of communist rule. 2019 marked 30 years since the Romanian Revolution in 1989, when Romanian leaders Nicolae and Elena Ceaușescu were assassinated on Christmas Day. 

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      I knew nothing about Romania before I arrived, and I left with more knowledge than I would have learned in any of my school classes. I’ll save the history lesson for the Google, and instead show you some of the highlights from the two walking tours. Our Air B & B was about a 30 minute walk from the city, and after asking a Romanian police woman where to go (she spoke no English, but was very kind) we found our way to the city.

      We passed by the Romanian Orthodox Church, which we later discovered is the bane of Bucharest’s existence. Bucharest has churches everywhere, and this project is costing the tax payers money they would rather be spending on hospitals, roads, schools, etc. Alas, the church continues to have construction costing more and more $$$.

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      Our first walking tour covered the general history of Bucharest, but the majority of this tour took us to see some of the many churches throughout the city. During the communist times, churches were lifted by engineers and moved, often to places that were hidden. We saw one church that was squeezed between and slightly behind other buildings.

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      How people can lift and move an entire building is beyond me, but they did this many times in Bucharest, specifically in order to make room for the Parliament building which is the second bane of Bucharest’s existence (and the second largest administrative building in the world.) The electricity cost to keep this building running, in rooms people don’t even use is astounding.

      Before his assassination, the Romanian leader wanted the Parliament building built to specific standards, which meant apartments and churches needed to be moved to make room. The apartments on the street leading up to the parliament were literally lifted and moved just slightly to make the path wider. Insert eye roll here, what a waste of funds.

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      Parliament

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      Of all the churches we saw, the most memorable was the Church of Saint Anthony. This church is the oldest in Bucharest, but what made this church so memorable was the story behind what happens here on Tuesday’s. Saint Anthony is the finder of lost things, and the saint of small requests, so on Tuesday’s people line up outside of the building to ask Saint Anthony for lost items.

      On Tuesday EVENINGS, women line up to ask Saint Anthony for love. We happened to pass by on a Tuesday and were able to see the line out the door. I should have come back that evening to ask for an Irishman.

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      After our first tour, we had a few hours to kill before our second tour. We headed towards Cărturești, aka one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world. Walking into this bookstore felt like walking into a fairytale. I’ve never seen anything like it.

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      I could have spent hours in there with a good book and a hot cup of coffee.

      As we made our way towards tour number two, we ran into a small friend. If there is anywhere in the world I belong the most it would be in Romania, simply for the amount of stray animals. The number of cats we saw was unimaginable, and all of them friendly.

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      I tried to feed her some of my salmon, but she wasn’t having it. 

      Tour two covered more of the communist history of the city, and our adorable tour guide named Serban was a plethora of knowledge. I thoroughly enjoyed learning about this subject. Serban took us through neighborhoods with bullet holes in the tops of buildings, past buildings that were used as old decoys without anyone actually living inside, and gave us a history lesson about King Carol I, Romania’s first king.

      King Carol I was German, and he was a was a babe.

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      King Carol I and his successors in the three right circular photos.

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      Source

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      Modern building built out of the shell of an old building on right.

      We weaved in and out of alleyways, saw “hidden” apartment buildings, and talked about the three United Principalities of Romania before Romania became…Romania. These were Transylvania, Moldavia and Wallachia (which became the basis for the Kingdom of Romania.) We also walked underneath buildings that were literally crumbling due to the fact the Romanian government has left all these buildings as they are.

      These dangerous alleyways had a unique beauty…as long as we walked quickly. 

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      My first impression of Bucharest was not favorable, but after this day of history and exploration I saw the charm. However, one day here was enough for me and I’m glad we spent more time in our other cities. Next up: two times the castles, two times the fun.

      Q: Have you been to a city where you prematurely judged the book by its cover?

      brittany

      | 13 Comments Tagged Brittanys Life Abroad, Bucharest, Europe, Romania, Walking Tour
    • Linderhof Palace

      Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on April 13, 2020

      I’ve found myself with (a lot of) extra free time lately, and while some days I don’t leave my room, other days I go on extensive (to me) bike rides around Bavaria. The weather lately has been exceptional, dare I say hot even, making the choice to get outside that much easier.

      I’ve ridden my bike many places around where I live, but now I’m starting to go further.

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      I decided last week to ride my bike to Linderhof Palace, the lesser known stepsister to the popular Neuschwanstein Castle. King Ludwig II of Bavaria never finished building Neuschwanstein before he mysteriously died, however Linderhof was completed, and it was in this palace where he actually lived.

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      Ludwig was an extreme introvert, to the point of having his meals delivered using a pulley system from floors below just so he didn’t have to see anyone. I think he would have thrived during this time of social isolation, however at the time his escape from reality lifestyle cost him his sanity, and ultimately his life.

      Despite his unique progression (or lack there of) into power, his fantasy world brought to life these two amazing palaces which were said to be funded by the tax paying community. I can understand the disdain towards him from the town folks, but today hundreds of thousands of visitors come to admire these architectural masterpieces.

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      Due to the current lockdown in Bavaria (and in many places all over the world), Linderhof is not open to the public. However, Bavaria (and Germany as a whole) has contained the Corona virus appropriately enough to allow those of us who live here the freedom to go outdoors for sports activities.

      So long as we’re alone, or with those we live with. For me bike rides are almost always solo activities. 

      I am finding that my love of outdoor sports is fluid. It changes as I change, and that’s ok. I once loved running outdoors, which then changed to a love for hiking, and has changed once again to a love for biking. This doesn’t mean I don’t still enjoy the aforementioned activities (although running and I really struggle to get along these days), but I much prefer biking. Especially when it’s warm outside. 

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      Fortunately for me, King Ludwig II loved the mountains, and loved to be tucked into his own pocket of the alps. Linderhof is surrounded by amazing views, and I can see why he chose this location to isolate himself. With the current isolation going on, I’d choose a place like this to spend my time too.

      Linderhof is not in prime shape during the winter months, and although it was technically spring when I stopped by, it was still looking pretty rough. The outside of the actual palace is gorgeous, and I can only imagine what the inside looks like, but the outer grounds (known for the flowers and the garden) was less than stellar. 

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      Renovations are being done to the grounds, which are larger than I expected them to be. The palace itself is part of a park area with walking paths, tree canopies, and fountains to unwind next to. I’ve been told middle to late spring is the best time to visit because the gardens are in full bloom, but photos of the palace in the fall intrigue me more.

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      Source (spring)

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      Source (fall)

      The above photos are what Linderhof looks like in her prime, alas when I visited it was a complete 180. I didn’t go expecting to see elaborate landscapes though, I went to see the palace itself, and to enjoy a long beautiful bike ride. I rode 34 miles this day, and it was a wonderful adventure through parts of Bavaria I hadn’t been.

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      I have said it once, and I will say it again – the freedom that a bicycle provides is unlike anything else. Sure, driving is great, but there is a kind of exhilaration that accompanies being on two wheels in a new to me location, with the wind in my hair. My travels have all been well worth the money, but this bike was the best investment I made last year. Second to my IRA of course. 😉

      Q: What does social isolation look like where you live? Are you able to go outside in nature?

      brittany

      | 23 Comments Tagged Bavaria, Biking, Brittanys Life Abroad, Europe, Linderhof Palace
    • Colmar, France

      Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on April 8, 2020

      After a lovely day in Strasbourg, my pal and I had one more day in France for our weekend getaway, and we decided to drive the hour south to Colmar before heading back to Germany. Colmar is renowned for its superbly preserved old town, adorned with timber-framed wood houses that reflect an exceptional blend of Germanic and French architecture.

      Have I mentioned how much I love this style of housing?

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      The weather on this day was a moody mix of wind and sprinkles, but neither of us were phased by this. When traveling, learning to roll with whatever is thrown your way makes things more enjoyable. Plus, most people aren’t traveling during the winter months so the trade off for poor weather is less humans.

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      We had no plan for this afternoon of wandering, so we parked the car and set off for a few hours of exploration. Our first stop was to La Petite Venise, or Little Venice, to admire the houses on the canal. These houses sit on the Lauch river and are said to have been houses for fishermen and boaters once upon a time.

      Now, they are the perfect houses to add to a vision board. 

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      A small walk along the pleasant Quai de la Poissonnerie leads to St Peter’s bridge where we had a beautiful view over “Little Venice.” From the bridge heading back down the cobblestone streets of Quai de la Poissonnerie we found a large brass colored building dating back to 1865. This building used to be a shopping hall, and is now a covered market known as Marché couvert.

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      Path towards market.

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      Market on the right.

      I wasn’t aware of this market until we passed by and I glanced inside the window. This indoor market (completely renovated in 2010), is home to many stalls selling local products, fruit and vegetables, and a bar with an amazing terrace (which seems to float on the Lauch River.) You can see the terrace surrounded by a red wall in the above photo.

      I can only imagine how popular the terrace is in the warmer months. 

      We hadn’t had breakfast yet, and this covered market was the perfect place to stop for a bite. Inside, the people were just waking up and it was apparent everyone wandering the stalls were locals and not tourists. Everyone knew what they wanted, and were having friendly chats with the stall owners. We made a full lap before finding the stalls we wanted to stop at.

      Breakfast goals were simple: bread, butter, jam, coffee.

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      The stall owners spoke very little English, but they were all very kind. We sat at the stall where we ordered coffee and each ate our entire baguette (and more than half this circle of local butter!) Bread makes me very brain foggy, but when in France it’s worth it.

      I remember the exact feeling of calm I had sitting inside this market focusing on nothing more than my baguette and americano.

      After breakfast we wandered around the streets and shops for a couple more hours before starting the drive back to Germany. We spent just the first half of our day in Colmar, which was enough time for us. One day is enough for this town, and perhaps I will return someday in the nicer weather to enjoy a cup of coffee on the covered market terrace.

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      When driving home, our GPS ended up taking us into Switzerland (I didn’t adjust the route option) which added an extra hour onto our drive back (whoops.) We had a good laugh about this detour, and thankfully the weather held up for the entirety of the drive.

      Strasbourg was enjoyable for its size and walkability, and Colmar was enjoyable for the same reasons, but in a different way. Comar is smaller, but far less touristy (even in the off season.) Both towns are beautiful, and have awe worthy architecture.

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      France continues to surprise me. Aside from a designated trip to Paris and Normandy in January, my other visits have been sporadic one or two day pop ins. In the future I would love to dedicate a week or more to exploring more of the country. Until then, I will daydream of fresh baguettes and locally churned butter. Ohh to be French.

      Q: Baguettes with butter and jam, or croissants? 

      brittany

      | 23 Comments Tagged Baguettes, Brittanys Life Abroad, Coffee, Colmar, Europe, France
    • Strasbourg, France

      Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on April 1, 2020

      At the end of February, one of my pals and I took a weekend trip to Strasbourg, France. I have visited France three times since living in Germany, and I have to admit before moving to Europe, France was never a country high on my list of places to visit. While Paris wasn’t really my cup of tea (big cities usually aren’t), I was blown away by the French countryside, and the small town of Strasbourg was just what I hoped it would be and more.

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      My friend and I both have February birthdays (hers is the day after mine!) and we hadn’t traveled together since last April, so we requested to have one of our weekends fall on the same two days. We rented a car, and I drove us the 3.5 hrs west. Strasbourg is right on the border of Germany, so the houses have a heavy German influence.

      I adore the German/Saxon style architecture, and perhaps this is why I loved this little town so much.

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      We drove to Strasbourg after work on our Friday, and arrived just in time to get a good nights rest. We found an Air B & B within 30 minutes walking distance, and right next to the tram. This was a nice balance of options, and we ended up walking into town, and decided to take the tram back in the evening. We woke early the following morning and headed towards the city for a day of exploration.

      We started our day at a local boulangerie for coffee and breakfast, and as we sat inside eating we heard nothing but French as the locals hurried in for their baguettes and espresso. Of all the countries I have visited, France was the one I felt most nervous asking if they speak English. I’ve heard that the French don’t like American’s, but as I said before I have been three times now and never once did I feel like a bother.

      Even in Paris! Crushing stereotypes when traveling is one of my favorite things to do. 

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      After savoring the local hustle and bustle of the boulangerie, we set off to wander the town by foot. We wandered inside the Strasbourg Cathedral, and then headed towards La Petite France, an adorable part of town on the canal. The morning weather was cool with an overcast, but by the early afternoon the clouds broke and the sun came out in full force.

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      Cathedral before the sun.

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      Cathedral after the sun.

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      La Petite France

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      La Petite France felt like a village straight out of Beauty and the Beast, and I expected a portly baker to come around the corner offering baguettes to passerby’s.

      After gawking at the adorable German style houses again, we wandered towards Parc de l’Orangerie. This is Strasbourg’s oldest park, with 24 hectares full of paths for jogging, walking, or bird watching. Yes bird watching. I thought I walked into an Alfred Hitchcock movie when I saw nest, after nest, after nest of stork homes.

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      This was literally one of the most bizarre things I have ever seen, and as we kept walking through the park we eventually stumbled upon a small farm/zoo. This was even more bizarre. Part of the small farm is dedicated to the stork rehabilitation. The stork, threatened by extinction, was successfully reintroduced to the region’s natural environment.

      The rest of the zoo held random animals from all over the world. I couldn’t understand the signs, as they were all in French, but I believe these animals were endangered and the zoo was meant to be beneficial to the species. This is what I told myself at least, I don’t like the idea of a zoo unless there is no other option for the animals.

      After this bizarre experience, we headed back towards the city center for a cup of coffee and a moment of rest. 

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      We sat outside a cafe in front of the cathedral listening to street performers and watching the tourists and locals pass by. I find myself finally slowing down more when I travel, and this has helped me to appreciate the places I visit. People watching and sitting amongst the locals is one of my favorite things to do in a new to me city.

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      After coffee and people watching my pal and I split off for a few hours of solo exploration. I love traveling with people who also enjoy spending time alone, it makes for the perfect balance of social time and alone time. I spent my time weaving in and out of streets I hadn’t seen, and ended my time climbing to the top of the cathedral.

      The tower climb is 330 steps high, and has views all the way to the Black Forest in Germany.

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      Despite the fact that I ate a small pizza and a pastry for breakfast (aka gluten and dairy city) I was on a roll of indulging in all the foods I’m allergic to and just kept the party train going for dinner. Strasbourg is in a region of France called Alsace, and this region is famous for something called Flammkuchen.

      Flammkuchen is a thinly rolled dough in an oval or rectangular shape similar to a flatbread, and is topped with fromage blanc or crème fraîche, thin-sliced onions and lardons. The toppings can vary slightly, but I kept mine mostly traditional with the addition of sauerkraut because…health.

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      Although I ate the entire thing, this isn’t something I would order again. The crème fraîche had an odd bite and the combo of flavors wasn’t something I preferred. I’m glad I tried it though, and we went to a local college hangout for dinner with a happy hour on Flammkuchen (and beer) so I only paid 5 euros for this.

      After dinner we made our way back to the Air B & B, walking along the canal towards the tram. We spent about 8-9 hours slowly wandering around Strasbourg which was the perfect amount of time. These close by towns make for a perfect weekend getaway.

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      Q: What’s a stereotype about another culture you crushed after experiencing the culture firsthand?

      brittany

      | 10 Comments Tagged Bakery, Brittanys Life Abroad, Europe, France, Strasbourg, Travel Abroad
    • How Are You…Really?

      Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on March 24, 2020

      I have two trips I want to share – one from the end of February, and one from just a week and a half ago, but in light of what’s going on right now in the world I think I will save those and write a post about “real” life. Before all this corona stuff I was wanting to write a little life update anyway, but I just continued to have travel posts (wow, rough life) and never got around to posting a feelings and emotions post.

      So grab a cuppa coffee, and let’s chat about the nitty gritty. 

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      This past winter hit me harder than I anticipated it would. We all struggle a bit more during the winter months, but I think being in a place where I don’t have family, and only have a couple friends to lean on made it harder for me. January marked one year of living in Germany, and while the time flew fast, it also moved like molasses at the same time.

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      One of the few snow falls this winter.

      I think it goes hand in hand with me loosening my diet (and gaining 15 pounds) causing some extra loneliness and more isolation, mixed with the dark months and less movement. I still traveled once a month, but even the travel felt wrong. I know I am not alone in the winter blues, I am just hoping I can shake them soon.

      In September I made a goal to eat more food, move my body less, and free my mind a bit in an attempt to correct a five year struggle with hypothalamic amenorrhea. In layman’s terms that means I didn’t have a period for five years. I was determined to balance my hormones and get my period back, and in December it came back.

      Eating what I wanted was OK at first, but I’ve been feeling really unwell for a while now. Food allergies are food allergies despite the motive for eating more freely. 

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      I’m stoked that I have had a consistent period for five months now, but I need to find a better way to accomplish this. I knew I was playing with fire by being extra loose with my diet, but my body can only handle so much. Food aside, I think ultimately it’s time for me to move on from working in a fast paced, high stress environment.

      My body just doesn’t like this type of work, nor does my mind.

      Due to the corona virus the hotel I work at has officially shut down for a month, but I anticipate it will be closed longer than a month. I also anticipate going back to the states soon, and at first this saddened me, but I feel ready. I can’t seem to shake this funk I am in and I think my body is telling me it’s burned out, and it’s time for a rest.

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      With spring just around the corner, the weather in Bavaria has been amazing. It bounces between sun and clouds, but the sun has been dominating lately. I’ve been trying to get outside more and ride my bike, especially because I don’t know how much longer I have to enjoy these amazing bike paths.

      Sometimes getting on my bike and zoning out for a few hours is the medicine I need for the day. 

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      I’m still working (minimal hours) doing tasks that can be done with a closed resort. Thankfully my parents taught me the power of saving money and I am in no way hurting for funds, but I am finding myself with a lot more free time. Free time is ok, but when it’s paired with social distancing it becomes harder.

      Even for an introvert like me. 

      It’s an odd reality for me, I thrive being alone, but the rules and restrictions that come with this pandemic (rightfully so) have me craving human connections more than normal. I’m really trying to sit with the discomfort that is coming during this time instead of masking it with food. I’ve been having counseling sessions with the U.S. chaplain that works nearby, and they have been so helpful for me.

      Of course, biking always helps too.

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      My bike was likely one of the best purchases I made while living in Germany, it quickly became my best friend and opened so many doors for me while I was “home” in Garmisch. I don’t run anymore, and while I still hike it doesn’t happen as much. Biking has been a lower impact way for me to still move my body without causing a Sjogren’s flare up.

      The flare ups still happen, but far less often from this kind of movement. 

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      At the end of the day, I am feeling weird. I know a big change is coming and that’s hard for me to deal with. The last year of living this lifestyle has been nothing short of life changing, and soon I will leave the only people who understand what I’ve been through. I deal with this often, because most people don’t pick up their lives and move so nomadically like I do, but just because I am used to it doesn’t make it any easier.

      On the flip side I am excited to start traveling the right way again. Never will I ever travel like I have the last year. I regret nothing, but the quickness and fast turn around of the travels I have done were too much. Being on a trip, and stressing about planning another trip is just ridiculous. There is such a thing as “too much” even with traveling.

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      With that said, I am obviously not traveling right now with corona running rampant all over the world. I am literally taking one day at a time, enjoying the area I live at the base of the alps, and trying to find small pockets of peace throughout each day. I feel really empty right now, more so after the world started to shut down, but this is part of life.

      We can’t have the highs without the lows. 

      I miss my family more than I thought I would, and I am wanting to go home. I feel like I am in a catch 22 because I want to go, but I also don’t want to travel overseas. I literally feel stuck, and while I know I am safe where I am I worry about something happening to my family. I’ve not experienced this type of emptiness in regards to my family since I was young, and I’m not sure how to process my emotions.

      For now, I have my Garmisch family to lean on. From 6ft away. 🙂

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      Photo taken just before the social distance rule.

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      ON A LIGHTER and completely unrelated note, at the end of February I went out after dark and the world didn’t stop turning. It was time for Fasching in Germany, and this year I decided to go out and dance with the locals. I even drank some gin. Who am I? You can read more about the Fasching history here.

      Along with the celebration, people dress up similar to Halloween. My roommate MaryBeth and I went to the thrift store two days before the event, found two hats, and went as Balto and Pikachu. I think my new calling is to be a professional face painter.

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      This was meant to show off my painting skills, and I don’t know how it turned into this.

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      Thankful for these humans in these weird, unknown times. This late night celebration made me feel like I felt when I was in my early 20’s. I felt free, and I realized I can and should do what I can to keep my body healthy, but I cannot live in a bubble. Sometimes we have to let our hair down (maybe a bad analogy for my hair…) and live life.

      We never know when the life as we know it will drastically change. 

      My sessions with the chaplain are challenging me to tell people how I feel…really. This will be a continuous work in progress for me, but this blog has always been a safe space for me to spill my heart. Thank you to those who have continued to read my rambles, writing truly is cathartic for me and when people read what I have to say I feel heard…really.

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      Bavaria is on lockdown, but we can still bike and hike alone. I’ve had years of practice with this.

      I know everyone is struggling from this limbo we’re in right now, but it helps to know I’m not alone. For now, I am still in Germany and don’t know when I will be coming home. One day, one hour, one minute at a time.

      Q: How are you…really?

      brittany

      | 29 Comments Tagged Biking, Brittanys Life Abroad, Fasching, Garmisch, Hiking
    • Exploring Edinburgh

      Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on March 16, 2020

      Day three in Scotland was spent exploring Edinburgh. I visited some new to me places, as well as places I had been before. Pam and I started the day with a tour of the Palace of Holyroodhouse, a new to me location where the Queen spends her time when she is in Scotland. The weather was nice while walking to Holyrood, and continued to stay nice with breaks of sun when we finished with our tour.

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      From here I ventured off solo to climb up to Arthurs Seat, something I wanted to do last time I visited Edinburgh, but did not have time for. I gave myself a window of three hours, which turned out to be two hours too many. The sky was clear as I began heading up the hill, but the higher I got the sketchier the path became.

      There were spots of thick ice, so I literally grabbed onto bushes and climbed up the sides of the path. This seems to be a theme for me. 

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      Then with the snap of a finger, the weather changed for the worse. I was more than halfway to the top and I’m too stubborn to quit, so I kept going. By the time I made it to the top the snow was so heavy I felt like I was in a small blizzard. Had I not been surrounded by handfuls of other idiots like me, I would have been more concerned.

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      Needless to say, I didn’t have a summit view and I didn’t stay at the top longer than a minute. I snapped a photo of the summit marker and quickly scooted back down unsure if the weather would continue to get worse. When I say scooted, I literally mean scooted. I crab walked down the path sliding as I went and laughing to myself imagining how ridiculous I looked.

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      Alas, in typical Scotland weather fashion the storm blew through in less than an hour, and the remainder of the day was dry with sun breaks. I was annoyed at first, but then I realized this just gave me yet another excuse to return to Scotland. As if I needed a reason to return, I’ll go back and climb this again in nicer weather.

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      After this true Scottish adventure, I headed back towards the Royal Mile to find Pam. We (and by we I mean ME) needed Kaffee und Kuchen, aka a German afternoon tradition of coffee and cake. I knew exactly where I wanted to go, it was a place I had been once before.

      A place with delicious cake, hot espresso, and one of the birthplaces of a famous novel series you might have heard of. 

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      The Elephant House is a fun cafe in Edinburgh, known for being one of the birthplaces of Harry Potter. I came for the history of the cafe, and stayed for the delicious cake. After filling our veins with sugar and caffeine we spent more time walking around the city.

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      Around 1600 Pam and I split off again and I ventured towards Calton Hill to watch the sunset.

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      For dinner, Pam and I had another grocery store picnic date in the hotel we were staying. My dinner included grilled chicken, veggies, and hummus, as well as a new to me food that Pam bought for me on our way to The Elephant House earlier in the day. I’d heard of Scotch Eggs before, but wasn’t sure what they were exactly.

      After being in the U.K for four days without consuming ANY black pudding, this was the perfect opportunity. 

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      Basically this is a hard boiled egg, wrapped in black pudding, and fried. Wow. Just wow. This was literally one of the best things I have ever eaten. My tastebuds danced like sugar plum faeries. (I’ve been doing better lately eating any and everything and handling the repercussions without spiraling. I used to get extreme anxiety if I felt my autoimmune disease flare up from something I ate, but now I just let it pass. It always passes.)

      This was a great trip to Scotland with even better company, and a perfect way to welcome turning 31. I hope to continue the tradition of spending my third decade of life in Europe for my birthday. 

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      I’m still just as in love with the U.K as I was the first time I visited in 2017. Something about this area of Europe makes me feel calm, and this trip was a long time coming for my friend Pam and I. Sometimes the universe brings people into your life you’d never expect, and Pam is that person for me. What started as a “business relationship” (I watch her adorable kitty) turned into a friendship I will cherish forever.

      Thank you to Pam for spending my birthday with me, and for coming all the way to Scotland. 

      Q: Do you have an unexpected friendship like Pam and I? 

      brittany

      | 20 Comments Tagged Brittanys Life Abroad, Coffee, Edinburgh, Harry Potter, Hiking
    • On the Banks of Loch Lomond

      Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on March 9, 2020

      Day two in Scotland was dedicated to touring around the western Highlands. I had submerged myself in the Highlands October of 2018 when I walked the West Highland Way (something I daydream of often), but this time I let someone else show me around. My friend Pam and I chose to do a full day guided tour, which was very convenient and a lot of fun.

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      Typically I like to have complete control over where I go, and I rent a car when I visit new places, but this was a nice change of pace. I had zero stress, and our tour guide Mike was a fun Scottish man with loads of information. His driving was a bit scary at times, but that’s another story. Our tour started at 0800 in Edinburgh, and we finished just before 1700.

      Our first stop was Doune Castle, a famous filming location for movies and television. Likely the most known movie filmed here was Monty Python and the Holy Grail. The Netflix series Outlander was also filmed here, as well as Game of Thrones. Basically Scotland has some epic landscapes and castles, and Hollywood has capitalized on it.

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      After wandering the castle and the nearby river path for an hour, we moved onward towards the Highlands. We made a quick stop to view Kilchurn Castle, sitting across from us on the edge of Loch Awe. We could only view this castle from afar, but it was awe-worthy indeed. A perfect name for the location.

      My photo is terrible, so I will include a professional shot. 

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      Source

      Our next stop was in a quaint little town called Inveraray. Here is where we stopped for lunch, but I brought my lunch with me which allowed me more time to explore. Pam and I parted ways for a bit at this stop, and I headed towards Inveraray Castle for a close up view. The castle was closed, but I was still able to view it from the gate.

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      Sometimes I daydream about what it was like to live in a castle in the medieval days. 

      Inveraray sits on the shores of Loch Fyne (who comes up with these names? They’re great!) and although our time spent here was during a wave of snow and wind I thoroughly enjoyed wandering this small town. After the castle I walked along the water, up to the old jail, and popped into the few shops that were open.

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      From Inveraray we began to climb. The winding roads went up, up, up leading us to a popular viewpoint known as “Rest and Be Thankful.” This spot is quite literally named as a place where travelers in olden times would stop, rest, and be thankful that they had reached the top of their steep climb, before continuing on to their destination.

      Sounds much like modern day hiking. Except hiking is less: “I must move onward for my survival,” and more: “I climb hills because I like to see the world from up high.”

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      I am not a person that typically gravitates towards snow, but the Highlands in the winter hold a magical beauty that can only be fully appreciated in person. The white contrast makes the greens, the browns, and the reds POP. The landscape is constantly changing providing constant visual stimulation.

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      Our final stop before heading back to Edinburgh was to a town called Luss, on the “Bonnie, Bonnie Banks” of Loch Lomond. Our tour guide Mike told us the history of the song Loch Lomond, which is actually quite sad. The song stems back to the Jacobite Uprising and is said to be about two soldiers, one destined for execution.

      According to Mike, the soldiers were brothers. One was scheduled for execution and at the last minute his brother volunteered to be killed so his brother could return to his family. The words: “ye’ll tak’ the high road and I’ll tak’ the low road” is saying that you will return alive, and I will return in spirit.

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      All this talk about death had me needing an emotional boost (that and it was nearing 1600), and my belly was asking me for a hit of carbs and sugar. We had 45 minutes to wander around Luss and I initially tried to find some Heilan Coo’s, but I ended up finding a small cafe with the best scones. The prize wining component?

      Clotted cream. 

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      I ate it all. Every last bit, including the butter. I ate the butter by the chunks because I didn’t dare waste it. The sugar rush that came from this decision was a bit intense, but boy was it tasty. We arrived back in Edinburgh around 1800, and I balanced out my sugar hit with some grilled chicken, hummus, and veggies from the grocery.

      Pam and I gathered our picnic style dinner, and ate in an area we designated as “our spot” of the hotel we were staying while reminiscing about the long, but wonderful day. Another unforgettable memory for the mind book. I have no affiliation with Rabbie’s Tours, but I would highly recommend them if you’re ever in the U.K. They’re professional, efficient, affordable, and informative!

      Next up: Edinburgh highlights.

      Q: Would you rather drive yourself around a new area, or allow a tour guide to take you places? As I said, I prefer driving myself, but this was a nice change of pace! 

      brittany

      | 12 Comments Tagged Brittanys Life Abroad, Highlands, Scotland
    • Stirling, Scotland

      Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on March 3, 2020

      The U.K. continues to hold a piece of my soul that no other country has quite grasped yet. Maybe it’s the friendly people, maybe it’s the beautiful countrysides, maybe it’s the amazing accents, or maybe it’s the lack of a language barrier that captivates me. Whatever it may be, I continue to feel more alive in the U.K. than anywhere in Europe.

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      For my birthday this year I took a trip to Scotland (my second time to this amazing country) and met up with my near and dear friend Pam from back home. We struggled for a bit when trying to decide on a meeting place, but after she suggested spending a few days in Scotland I knew it would be a good time.

      I had reservations about visiting Scotland in February, but the weather turned out to be mostly ok. Aside from a four hour flight delay when trying to leave Munich due to a storm rolling through the U.K. I arrived at our hotel around midnight and was ready for a good nights sleep. Another prime example that travel is not always luxurious.

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      We were to spend four nights in Edinburgh, and use this city as our home base. From here we took day trips outside of the city – starting with a trip to Stirling. I had been to Edinburgh before, but only for seven hours. I knew I’d like to return, and this was a great time to do so. I had not been to Stirling before, so I was excited to see something new.

      But first, breakfast. 

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      Side note: I tried haggis for the first time and I am not a fan. Give me black pudding all day long, but keep the haggis away. BLECH.

      Sterling is a short 45 min train ride from Edinburgh, and with a belly full of goodness (except for the haggis) we set off on our first adventure. The weather was moderate, with a rolling rotation of rain, sun, wind, and snow. This seemed to be the theme of the entire week. I didn’t hate it though.

      Our goal for the morning was a visit to Stirling Castle, but first we weaved and bobbed through the streets and cemetery of the town.

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      Stirling Castle up on the hill.

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      We were able to tag along with a free guided tour of the castle (included in our entry ticket) and the most adorable little Scottish girl walked us around and chatted about the history. I could have listened to her speak all day.

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      After a proper castle tour it was time for one of the most important activities in the U.K…tea/coffee and scones!

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      I am a SUCKER for a good scone with butter and jam, and it’s worth the repercussions every.single.time. We sat inside the castle cafe waiting for a batch of rain to pass, and soon enough the sun came out. Rain, sun, wind, snow.

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      We staying in Sterling for about five hours before heading back to Edinburgh for the remainder of the day. By the time we got back, the snow started to fall. Rain, sun, wind, snow. This first adventure set the tone for the remainder of the week…slow moving. A reminder of how I used to travel before moving to Europe.

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      Snow fall back in Edinburgh.

      Upon arrival back in Edinburgh, Pam took me on a walking tour around the city (she used to visit Edinburgh often as a flight attendant) to areas I hadn’t seen on my previous trip. We ended the day with dinner at Byron, a restaurant I had been to. This place is a good option for those with allergies/who need customization.

      I try to balance eating whatever I want with “ok but you also have allergies so chill out” when I travel. It doesn’t always work out. LOL.

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      Next up: a day trip to the Highlands.

      Q: Where is a place in the world that makes your soul come to life?

      brittany

      | 23 Comments Tagged Brittanys Life Abroad, Castle, Scotland, United Kingdom
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    • BRITTANY- Self proclaimed minimalistic nomad striving to maintain a balanced, healthy life with good food, long hikes, deep connections, exploration, and lots of potatoes.
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