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  • Tag: Scotland

    • On the Banks of Loch Lomond

      Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on March 9, 2020

      Day two in Scotland was dedicated to touring around the western Highlands. I had submerged myself in the Highlands October of 2018 when I walked the West Highland Way (something I daydream of often), but this time I let someone else show me around. My friend Pam and I chose to do a full day guided tour, which was very convenient and a lot of fun.

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      Typically I like to have complete control over where I go, and I rent a car when I visit new places, but this was a nice change of pace. I had zero stress, and our tour guide Mike was a fun Scottish man with loads of information. His driving was a bit scary at times, but that’s another story. Our tour started at 0800 in Edinburgh, and we finished just before 1700.

      Our first stop was Doune Castle, a famous filming location for movies and television. Likely the most known movie filmed here was Monty Python and the Holy Grail. The Netflix series Outlander was also filmed here, as well as Game of Thrones. Basically Scotland has some epic landscapes and castles, and Hollywood has capitalized on it.

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      After wandering the castle and the nearby river path for an hour, we moved onward towards the Highlands. We made a quick stop to view Kilchurn Castle, sitting across from us on the edge of Loch Awe. We could only view this castle from afar, but it was awe-worthy indeed. A perfect name for the location.

      My photo is terrible, so I will include a professional shot. 

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      Source

      Our next stop was in a quaint little town called Inveraray. Here is where we stopped for lunch, but I brought my lunch with me which allowed me more time to explore. Pam and I parted ways for a bit at this stop, and I headed towards Inveraray Castle for a close up view. The castle was closed, but I was still able to view it from the gate.

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      Sometimes I daydream about what it was like to live in a castle in the medieval days. 

      Inveraray sits on the shores of Loch Fyne (who comes up with these names? They’re great!) and although our time spent here was during a wave of snow and wind I thoroughly enjoyed wandering this small town. After the castle I walked along the water, up to the old jail, and popped into the few shops that were open.

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      From Inveraray we began to climb. The winding roads went up, up, up leading us to a popular viewpoint known as “Rest and Be Thankful.” This spot is quite literally named as a place where travelers in olden times would stop, rest, and be thankful that they had reached the top of their steep climb, before continuing on to their destination.

      Sounds much like modern day hiking. Except hiking is less: “I must move onward for my survival,” and more: “I climb hills because I like to see the world from up high.”

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      I am not a person that typically gravitates towards snow, but the Highlands in the winter hold a magical beauty that can only be fully appreciated in person. The white contrast makes the greens, the browns, and the reds POP. The landscape is constantly changing providing constant visual stimulation.

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      Our final stop before heading back to Edinburgh was to a town called Luss, on the “Bonnie, Bonnie Banks” of Loch Lomond. Our tour guide Mike told us the history of the song Loch Lomond, which is actually quite sad. The song stems back to the Jacobite Uprising and is said to be about two soldiers, one destined for execution.

      According to Mike, the soldiers were brothers. One was scheduled for execution and at the last minute his brother volunteered to be killed so his brother could return to his family. The words: “ye’ll tak’ the high road and I’ll tak’ the low road” is saying that you will return alive, and I will return in spirit.

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      All this talk about death had me needing an emotional boost (that and it was nearing 1600), and my belly was asking me for a hit of carbs and sugar. We had 45 minutes to wander around Luss and I initially tried to find some Heilan Coo’s, but I ended up finding a small cafe with the best scones. The prize wining component?

      Clotted cream. 

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      I ate it all. Every last bit, including the butter. I ate the butter by the chunks because I didn’t dare waste it. The sugar rush that came from this decision was a bit intense, but boy was it tasty. We arrived back in Edinburgh around 1800, and I balanced out my sugar hit with some grilled chicken, hummus, and veggies from the grocery.

      Pam and I gathered our picnic style dinner, and ate in an area we designated as “our spot” of the hotel we were staying while reminiscing about the long, but wonderful day. Another unforgettable memory for the mind book. I have no affiliation with Rabbie’s Tours, but I would highly recommend them if you’re ever in the U.K. They’re professional, efficient, affordable, and informative!

      Next up: Edinburgh highlights.

      Q: Would you rather drive yourself around a new area, or allow a tour guide to take you places? As I said, I prefer driving myself, but this was a nice change of pace! 

      brittany

      | 12 Comments Tagged Brittanys Life Abroad, Highlands, Scotland
    • Stirling, Scotland

      Posted at 2:00 PM by Brittany, on March 3, 2020

      The U.K. continues to hold a piece of my soul that no other country has quite grasped yet. Maybe it’s the friendly people, maybe it’s the beautiful countrysides, maybe it’s the amazing accents, or maybe it’s the lack of a language barrier that captivates me. Whatever it may be, I continue to feel more alive in the U.K. than anywhere in Europe.

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      For my birthday this year I took a trip to Scotland (my second time to this amazing country) and met up with my near and dear friend Pam from back home. We struggled for a bit when trying to decide on a meeting place, but after she suggested spending a few days in Scotland I knew it would be a good time.

      I had reservations about visiting Scotland in February, but the weather turned out to be mostly ok. Aside from a four hour flight delay when trying to leave Munich due to a storm rolling through the U.K. I arrived at our hotel around midnight and was ready for a good nights sleep. Another prime example that travel is not always luxurious.

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      We were to spend four nights in Edinburgh, and use this city as our home base. From here we took day trips outside of the city – starting with a trip to Stirling. I had been to Edinburgh before, but only for seven hours. I knew I’d like to return, and this was a great time to do so. I had not been to Stirling before, so I was excited to see something new.

      But first, breakfast. 

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      Side note: I tried haggis for the first time and I am not a fan. Give me black pudding all day long, but keep the haggis away. BLECH.

      Sterling is a short 45 min train ride from Edinburgh, and with a belly full of goodness (except for the haggis) we set off on our first adventure. The weather was moderate, with a rolling rotation of rain, sun, wind, and snow. This seemed to be the theme of the entire week. I didn’t hate it though.

      Our goal for the morning was a visit to Stirling Castle, but first we weaved and bobbed through the streets and cemetery of the town.

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      Stirling Castle up on the hill.

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      We were able to tag along with a free guided tour of the castle (included in our entry ticket) and the most adorable little Scottish girl walked us around and chatted about the history. I could have listened to her speak all day.

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      After a proper castle tour it was time for one of the most important activities in the U.K…tea/coffee and scones!

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      I am a SUCKER for a good scone with butter and jam, and it’s worth the repercussions every.single.time. We sat inside the castle cafe waiting for a batch of rain to pass, and soon enough the sun came out. Rain, sun, wind, snow.

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      We staying in Sterling for about five hours before heading back to Edinburgh for the remainder of the day. By the time we got back, the snow started to fall. Rain, sun, wind, snow. This first adventure set the tone for the remainder of the week…slow moving. A reminder of how I used to travel before moving to Europe.

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      Snow fall back in Edinburgh.

      Upon arrival back in Edinburgh, Pam took me on a walking tour around the city (she used to visit Edinburgh often as a flight attendant) to areas I hadn’t seen on my previous trip. We ended the day with dinner at Byron, a restaurant I had been to. This place is a good option for those with allergies/who need customization.

      I try to balance eating whatever I want with “ok but you also have allergies so chill out” when I travel. It doesn’t always work out. LOL.

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      Next up: a day trip to the Highlands.

      Q: Where is a place in the world that makes your soul come to life?

      brittany

      | 23 Comments Tagged Brittanys Life Abroad, Castle, Scotland, United Kingdom
    • Glasgow and Edinburgh, Scotland

      Posted at 5:00 AM by Brittany, on December 3, 2018

      After a few days on the Isle of Skye, it was time to make our way back down south to Glasgow. From here we would take the train to Edinburgh and see as much as we could in the limited time we had. We took the train from Fort William to Glasgow, but before we left we stopped at the most amazing cafe. The Wildcat is an all vegan cafe right in the heart of the Fort William city center. An unexpected stop, but worthy of mentioning.

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      A wee long black.

      The train from Fort William was simple enough, and we arrived in Glasgow with a few hours of daylight left. I wanted to take a quick stroll around the city center, so I chose Buchanan Street and got a brief taste of Glasgow. We didn’t plan much time in Glasgow, other than using it as a launch pad, but I feel I saw enough for this trip.

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      The real star of the Glasgow show was the hotel, I mean castle we stayed at our first night back in the city. Throughout our trip I chose a handful of hostels because I am cheap as hell, but my friend Sam chose this one. I don’t like spending a lot of money on a place I plan to sleep, but I admit it was worth the price tag.

      We arrived here early enough to be in our mini suite as long as we could. 

      The Sherbrooke Castle Hotel was built in 1896 as a villa for a man, and still has the historical feel of that time frame. The castle is in a neighborhood we called the Beverly Hills of Glasgow, pinky’s up. The staff was wonderful, and the food was exceptional. Our server for the evening was the kindest, most down to earth girl we’d met all trip. She really made our experience wonderful. 10/10 recommend if you want to splurge a little.

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      Cathedral across the street.

      After a leisure morning in the castle and delicious breakfast the following day, we took a taxi to our B&B for the night to drop off our backpacks. We stayed at the Clifton Hotel our final night in Scotland, where we stayed our first night as well. Bags were dropped and we walked the catch a train to Edinburgh for the day. Until this point of the trip, I never quite felt like I was in another country.

      Sure, the castles were amazing and the waterfalls were endless, but the climate in Scotland is a lot like my home state of Washington.

      I’d have moments where I knew I was somewhere else, but ultimately it wasn’t a true feel of another country. Until I arrived in Edinburgh. My only regret for this trip was not making more time to spend in Edinburgh, this city is AH-MAY-ZING. We had a loose schedule for this day, but we knew we needed to go to Edinburgh Castle, and walk the Royal Mile. Upon arrival, we were spit right in front of a beautiful cafe, where I tasted the most amazing coconut milk latte of my life. 

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      Immediately as we walked around the corner towards the castle and onto the Royal Mile I felt it. The buildings were amazing, and the streets were wobbly. The culture was rich (though touristy of course) and the street performers were traditional. The cathedrals were large, and the cafes were quaint. I was in love, and I was excited to wander.

      Admittedly, the Edinburgh Castle was my least favorite spot. While it’s definitely a must see, I found it to be far too touristy, too crowded, and overall the experience felt very commercialized. It was also FAR too big (must be niceee) and I was overwhelmed by all there was to see. I did however find the dungeon area very fascinating, and they have original doors from the 1700’s with prisoners carvings.

      Regardless of my opinion, this is such a place of history in Scotland that it’s a must see, even if just from the outside. 

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      After the castle it was time for a snack. I quickly remembered reading about a cafe in Edinburgh where J.K. Rowling spent many hours writing the beginnings of Harry Potter, and ten minutes later we found ourselves in line at The Elephant House. This cafe is busy, for obvious reasons, and there is no wifi. They have a sign as you walk in that says: “we do not have wifi. Talk to each other. Pretend it’s 1995.” I loved that.

      I also loved the chocolate cake and espresso I consumed, as I daydreamed about what it must have been like to write a book with Edinburgh Castle out the window. The bathrooms in The Elephant House are completely graffitied, with endless praise for J.K. Rowling. It was quite the sight, and reading the words as I relieved myself was entertaining to say the least. This is a definite must see if you’re a HP fan, or if you like a good espresso and cake.

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      After my Isle of Skye splurge, it was game on for “eat whatever I want.” I payed for it when I got home, but YOLO.

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      View of the castle up on the hill from where we sat.

      The Harry Potter tour doesn’t stop here, Edinburgh has plenty of other HP themed shops and locations. One street in particular is well known for its different colored buildings, and is said to have been the inspiration for Diagon Alley. Even if you’re not a HP fan, Victoria Street is another must see. The buildings alone are a blast. On this street you’ll find shops like The Boy Wizard, and Museum Context, a Harry Potter themed museum.

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      There is so much yes about this photo.

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      After channeling my inner witch, it was time to wander the streets and soak up the culture. We visited St Giles Cathedral, watched street performers, and went into tourist shops. We ended our adventure at Byron for a chicken burger and chips. It was delicious, and our Barcelona bred server was equal parts accommodating as he was charming. I told him I’d be back (for both a meal and his face.)

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      After our meal it was time to head back to the train, which proved to be an adventure in itself. Our platform to get back to Glasgow was changed not once, but twice. We quickly discovered the majority of train riders around us were also tourists and we all had to scramble to find the new platform. It was comical, and we eventually departed the city. Perhaps this was a sign we should have stayed longer.

      There is so much more to see in Edinburgh, the seven hours we were there wasn’t nearly enough time. Until we meet again.

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      The final highlight of my trip to Scotland, was upon arrival back in Glasgow. I had seen a gelato/churro shop as we walked to the train station earlier that day, and despite the fact that it was nearing 10pm I knew I had to have some. So there I was, sitting in the Loop and Scoop (among many other late night sweet tooth’s) consuming the most ingenious flavor combination of my life. Homemade churros, and gelato, what more could you ask for?

      Life was good. Life was really, really good. 

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      Q: Are you a Harry Potter fan? 

      brittany

      | 23 Comments Tagged Castle, Edinburgh, Edinburgh Castle, Glasgow, Harry Potter, Scotland, Victoria Street
    • The Isle of Skye

      Posted at 5:00 AM by Brittany, on November 27, 2018

      With a week left in Scotland after completing the West Highland Way, my friend and I were positioned perfectly to spend a few days on the Isle of Skye. The WHW ended in Fort William, which is relatively close to Skye, so we picked up a rental car from the Fort William train station (within walking distance from our Fort William B&B) and off we went.

      Our first stop was actually not on the Isle of Skye, but a small detour the opposite way to visit the Glenfinnan Viaduct, AKA the bridge for the Harry Potter train. We didn’t get close to the viaduct, but close enough to see it and fan girl for a moment. Across the way is the Glenfinnan Monument, and amazing views over Loch Shiel.

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      Our next location of the day was just before the bridge to Skye, and is the most photographed castle in Scotland (for good reason.) Eilean Donan is rich in history, and has undergone some amazing renovations allowing the public to continue to appreciate its magic. The overcast weather we had on this day added to the experience of what it was like living in this giant castle.

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      After playing princess, we were able to fit one more adventure into day one, and made our way to the Fairy Pools. We were officially on the Isle now, and as we arrived the rain decided to come out to play. I don’t mind driving in the UK, being on the other side of the road felt natural after doing it in Ireland last year, however driving in the rain on backcountry roads made me nervous.

      On the Isle, the backroads are only large enough for one vehicle, and have pull outs along the way for cars to pull over into if you find yourself head on with another vehicle. Before realizing this system I would get anxious if I saw another car coming. Once you get the hang of it it’s not so bad, but I never like driving in heavy rain, even in Washington. The pools were amazing, and worth the gripped steering wheel to arrive. The walk is about a mile and a half roundtrip.

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      Our first night on the Isle we stayed at the Hazelbank B&B, which was VERY nice. The host was amazingly friendly, and she was helpful when we told her about our upcoming plans. She helped us map out an alternate route and offered some local suggestions. The breakfast was delicious too, well worth the extra cost.

      Day two started just a 20 minute drive from our B&B at Neist Point. Neist Point is home to a lighthouse that was built in 1900, which now runs on an automatic system. Neist point is one of the most famous lighthouses in Scotland, also for good reason. The walk to the lighthouse and back is a mere 1.4 miles, but the views are anything but minor. This visit won’t take long, but is worth the stop.

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      The weather was meant to be wet this day, but as we set off to our next destination the sun came out and surprised us. We drove from Neist Point to the Old Man of Storr, which is by far on my list of top three most amazing things/places I’ve seen/been. The drive itself around Skye is enough to feel like another world, but The Storr was on another level.

      Before arriving, we stopped for a snack in the adorable town of Portree – which was a delicious mistake. 

      Those who know me, know that I have a bit of an all or nothing personality. Especially when it comes to food. Because I have to be on my “A game” at all times in order to moderate my autoimmune symptoms, anytime I take a “break” and eat something that doesn’t necessarily make me feel my best I go hard. MacKenzie’s Bakery is true baked good heaven, and I was in trouble the moment I walked in the door. This bakery is a MUST, I repeat MUST visit. The baked goods are amazing, and the prices are stupid low.

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      Things started innocently enough, I bought two treats – a cinnamon donut and the below photographed cream stuffed donut with a cup of black coffee. I stood outside in the sunshine soaking up the instant high I received from the caffeine and sugar, two substances I do not include in my regular diet. Once they were gone, it was game over. I went in and bought three more items, two of which I ate right away.

      I told you, I go hard.

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      Upon arrival at the Old Man of Storr I was so pumped full of sugar and caffeine I needed to get out of the car STAT. I crashed shortly thereafter, but it was worth every painful breath I took climbing up the hill. The ascent to The Storr is not small, but the climb is worth every step. Once you make it to the “top” the possibilities are endless for exploration.

      So many different twists and turns making you feel like you are truly on another planet. In many ways this place reminded me of Skellig Michael in Ireland, but it was still so very different. The walk is 2.36 miles up to the “Old Man” and back, but there is plenty of room for more wandering.

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      After getting lost on planet Storr for a couple hours, we made a quick pit stop at Kilt Rock before making our way to our bunkhouse for the evening. Kilt Rock is a waterfall coming off the side of the cliffs, and is a quick and easy pull off. Our home away from home for the night was called The Cowshed, and was the most modern, adorable bunkhouse I have EVER seen.

      We slept in a POD, which was basically like my tiny house dream home. 

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      Kilt Rock

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      Our third and final day on the Isle of Skye took us first to The Quiraing. This walk is a little over 4 miles round trip, and likely one of the most beautiful places to walk on the Isle. I say likely, because the day we went had the worst weather I have ever seen…like…in my entire life. The rain was one thing at first, but rain quickly turned to downpour, temps quickly dropped, and the wind was STRONG. The wind blew the rain so hard it felt like needles on my face.

      Also, keep in mind I’m still walking everywhere in my Teva’s. 

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      “Excuse me, how do you LIVE with this wind!?”

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      I would like to visit The Quiraing again on a nicer day, to get a better view of the vastness of it. After this “adventure” I was done, but we had one more stop before heading back to Fort William. Armadale Castle ruins reside on a preserved estate, but are unsafe for people to walk into. Of all the castles I’ve seen thus far, this was the first one that I was unable to walk close to.

      Personally, I’d have been OK to skip this one. Perhaps I was just too cold and wet, but I didn’t find it worth the stop. 

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      And just like that, our quick trip to the Isle of Skye had come to an end. We made our way back to Fort William to drop off our car at the train station (this was a great set up, literally just left the keys with the train employees) and walked back to our B&B. We stayed at the same B&B we had stayed upon arrival in Fort William the first time, and our host was even more enjoyable the second time.

      Oh, and how could I forget one the highlight of Skye? HEILAN COO’S! 

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      Q: Of all the places listed above, which one would you like to visit the most? I’d reallllyy like to find my way back to MacKenzies….

      brittany

      | 36 Comments Tagged Eilean Donan Castle, Fairy Pools, Highland Cow, Isle of Skye, Neist Point Lighthouse, Old Man of Storr, Quiraing, Scotland
    • The West Highland Way

      Posted at 5:00 AM by Brittany, on November 20, 2018

      This is a long, moderately informative post for those who are interested in learning more about a first hand experience walking The West Highland Way in Scotland. This post will break down my route day by day with a small detailed snippet, including where I stayed.

      Last year I was sitting on my couch finishing up a homework assignment, when I decided to take a break and read some blogs. I somehow stumbled across a blog post about a distance walk in Scotland I’d never heard of, but that immediately intrigued me. After learning the very basics of the walk, I told myself “after you graduate, you’re doing this walk.”

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      Fast forward to a year and some change later I graduated college, and had a trip booked to walk the 96 mile trail. My friend and I planned the trip ourselves, however there are options to have others plan your trip if you don’t want to do the dirty work yourself. We went in October, which meant the fall colors were alive, there were very few people on the trail, and when it rained…it POURED.

      Good thing we’re from Washington. 

      The trail starts in Milngavie, which is about a 10 minute cab ride from where we stayed in Glasgow. We flew into Glasgow, took a bus to our B&B, and took a cab to the start of the trail. We stayed at the Clifton Hotel the night before we started, and the woman that checked us in was very helpful. We didn’t use a GPS, and we didn’t use a map, but if I could provide one travel tip for a well marked walk like this it would be: plug the end location for each day into the map app on your phone. You won’t have step by step directions, but this way you’ll know you’re heading in the right direction because the location dot still moves without a wireless connection.

      Let’s start from day one, shall we? With a belly full of black pudding, we headed to the start of the trail. 

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      Day one: Milngavie to Drymen – 12 miles

      The start of the trail is in a small shopping center, which felt a bit odd. Especially after coming from five months living in Yellowstone. I quickly learned it was going to be impossible to get lost, and was thankful for the trail markers along the way. Day one walked along the road quite a bit, and was a warm up for the days to come.

      Don’t let this day be the judge for the days to come, it felt more like a walk around country neighborhoods, but you have to start somewhere. The walk was quick on day one. We arrived a mere five hours after we started, with plenty of time to prepare for day two. Once arriving in Drymen, we got a bite to eat at the only pub in town which had delicious chicken and crispy chips. The town was quiet and quaint. We slept at The Drymen Inn, which was clean and cozy.

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      The thistle trail marker.

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      Pub grub

      Day two: Drymen to Rowardennan – 14 miles

      We ate a delicious breakfast at The Drymen Inn, and headed off for day two. Day one and two had something in common – they both had never-ending farm gates we had to walk through. The gates meant we walked past plenty of farm animals, which is always a good time. The sheep and cows were just as exciting the fifth time I saw them as they were the first. I also saw my first Highland cow this day, which was 95% of the reason I wanted to visit Scotland.

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      This section of the trail took us into Loch Lomond National Park, where we would spend the next couple days of the walk. The route took us up a solid mountain, giving amazing views of Loch Lomond. This day was a bit blustery, (and by that I mean I literally almost blew off a mountain and it was slightly terrifying) but the first half of the walk was dry.

      The second half of the day it started to rain, and I mean RAIN. 

      We arrived in Rowardennan around 5pm sopping wet, and this area is even smaller than Drymen. There is literally one hotel with a restaurant, and a couple hostels down the way. We stayed at the Ben Lomond Bunk House, which is a hostel run by the park rangers. All the funds go back to supporting the park. How cool. At this bunkhouse we met a girl from Germany who was solo walking the trail, and we ended up seeing her everyday after that.

      Day two was much more isolated than day one, which was nice, but still walked into towns and along the road. The terrain was ever changing from mountains, to meadows, to forests, to lakeside. It was bizarre, in the best way possible. I met a nice man at the Loch Lomond Visitor Center, and he gave me a national park pin for my collection. He was a grand fella.

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      Loch Lomond

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      Day three: Rowardennan to Inverarnan – 14 miles

      The perk of staying at a bunkhouse was that we spent a whopping 18 euros per person, the downside was that they didn’t serve breakfast. We hiked 6 miles on an empty stomach, which was a mistake. I thought my partner in crime was going to pass out, or quit, or both. The first half of this day walked alongside Loch Lomond, up over rocks and trees. It felt like an adventure through Lord of the Rings.

      We stopped for food at the Inversnaid Hotel along the way, where we met up with our German friend. The hotel was beautiful, and the staff was very accommodating to walkers. We were rained on about an hour after we started, and continued to get good use of our ponchos. This day introduced us to the waterfalls in Scotland. I have literally never seen so many waterfalls in my life. I also discovered what Scottish mountain goats smell like, it wasn’t pleasant.

      The second half of this section felt like a scene from Jurassic Park. 

      Our day ended at the infamous Drovers Inn, which was decked out for Halloween. The building is over 300 years old, and it was amazing. The food was great, the staff was amazing (and quite attractive), and the room was cozy.

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      Drovers Inn

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      Day Four: Inverarnan to Tyndrum – 12 miles

      By day four the walk felt like second nature, after two back to back 14 mile days it was nice to have a 12 miler. The weather was dry, and we got our first real taste of the Highlands to come. This route was nothing short of magical, the colors, the views, and the animals. We walked through open farmland, and came face to face with herds of cattle free ranging everywhere.

      One of the main perks of going in the off season is having the hills to yourself. Sure, we saw a few people, but nothing like it would have been in the peak of the summer. Plus, I’d rather need a jacket and a poncho than be dripping sweat or overheating. Upon arrival in Tyndrum we stayed at Muthu Ben Doran Hotel, which had amazing staff and a beautiful garden look, but mediocre food. We ate dinner down the road at the Tyndrum Inn, which is where I’d stay next time.

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      Muthu Ben Doran

      Day Five: Tyndrum to Inveroran – 9 miles

      Day five should have been the easiest day of the walk, however for me it was the hardest.  On day two I started to notice discomfort in the arch of my left foot, but ignored it thinking it would pass. Day three and four it didn’t pass, and by day five the pain was so bad I could barely walk. The route from Tyndum to Inveroran is mostly flat, and the terrain is like a gravel backroad, but I was hobbling behind my friend a good 50 feet almost the entire way.

      About a mile into the walk I decided to ditch my hiking shoes (which I last minute decided to wear, I should have stuck to my gut and wore my Nike Free’s) and walk in my Teva sandals. Yes, sandals. I wore two pairs of wool socks and tightened up my sandals and embraced wet feet. Thankfully this day for us was the sunniest of them all, and it was amazingly beautiful. I cried for a few hours on this day, because I wasn’t sure if I would be able to continue.

      I had planned to do this walk for over a year, and was destroyed by the thought of having to quit because of a rookie mistake. I cried, and cried, and cried some more, and then I pulled my shit together and told myself to take each step at a time. I enjoyed this route as much as I could, and upon arrival into Inveroran we were officially in the heart of the Scottish Highlands. Talk about AMAZING. From here on forward, we no longer walked through roads, neighborhoods, or even woods – this was the true Highland experience.

      We stayed at the Inveroran Hotel, which was by far the best stay along the way. The hotel is in the middle of no where, and follows the route perfectly. The staff was WONDERFUL, and the food was the most amazing food I’d had since arriving. 10/10 would recommend. The rooms felt like a room in your grandmothers house, and the food was all handmade from scratch – you could truly taste the love.

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      Day Six: Inveroran to Kinlochleven – 19 miles

      I ended up throwing away my hiking shoes in Inveroran, and planned to walk the remaining 35ish miles in my Teva’s. Where there is a will, there is a way. Now, before you drop your jaw to the floor, we didn’t actually walk 19 miles this day. Usually people stop halfway at a place called the Kingshouse, however due to reconstruction the Kingshouse was closed. After hiking my ass off in Yellowstone, including plenty of 12-16 mile hikes and one 20 miler, I wasn’t phased by 19 miles. Until my foot failed and my partner in crime lost interest in the walk all together.

      I had every intention of walking to the Glencoe Ski Resort about 8 miles from Inveroran with my friend, and then continuing on alone to Kinlochleven. 

      The weather on day six was great (so thankful for expansive views of these amazing hills) just until we hit the ski resort, and then it was absolutely atrocious. Winds strong enough to knock over a horse, rain hard enough to flood a small city, and it got COLD. The second half of this route takes you up to the highest point of the walk, and my ego really wanted to finish this part of the trail. Realizing there would be zero visibility, and that climbing a mountain in sandals while the wind was roaring would be miserable, I decided to skip this section with my friend and take a bus from Glencoe to Kinlochleven.

      My ego is still a little bruised, but now I have a reason to return. I ended up skipping about 10 miles of the overall trail. 

      We took a bus from the ski resort to the heart of Glencoe, and ended up meeting a Scottish woman coming home from her trip to Greece. She offered us a ride in her taxi, which we accepted. We arrived in Kinlochleven shortly after and this was the first time in a few days we were in actual civilization. The town was adorable, and we stayed at the Blackwater Hostel. We ate dinner with our German friend at the MacDonald Hotel, where I had the most amazing chicken and sweet potato fries.

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      So cold I lost blood flow. 

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      Day Seven: Kinlochleven to Fort William – 16 miles

      The final, and most amazing day of the entire trail was day seven. I ended up walking the final day solo, and while I love my friend (hi Sam!) there was nothing more meditative than walking a trail like this alone. I was in my element, and all the pain and stress from the previous few days disappeared. My foot still hurt, but the Teva’s were still better than my other shoes that were long gone in the trash.

      I ate breakfast at the MacDonald Hotel, because the hostel in Kinlochleven did not provide breakfast (usually people make their own food in the communal kitchen.) I’m a big fan of the traditional English/Irish/Scottish breakfasts. They’re very similar, with a few small differences. The start of this route climbs a hill to get out of Kinlochleven, which ends up bringing you DEEP into the hills of the Highlands. It was pure, and absolute bliss. The weather was moderate, with rain here and there, and my feet were soaked from the get go, but there was nothing that could dampen my spirits being surrounded by the Scottish Highlands.

      I passed a few people, but for the most part had the entire 16 miles to myself, aside from some sheep of course. This part of the trail had plenty of rolling hills, but nothing overwhelming physically. Upon arrival in Fort William, I felt a wave of emotions. I was sad that the walk was over, but excited to have completed it. Once I made it to the town center of Fort William, I was ready for a meal and a shower. My friend arrived by bus, and had checked into our B&B for the night, which was an adorable house right next to the city center. The Gowan Brae House is a highly recommended spot in Fort William, our host was amazingly accommodating, friendly, and the breakfast was wonderful.

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      Did you really complete the WHW if you didn’t take a photo with the man on the bench?

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      Fort William

      It can be hard to prepare for a distance walk, if you have no idea what the terrain or weather will be, but here are my main takeaways and tips for walking the WHW.

      • Be in shape. You don’t need to run marathons everyday, but I spent my entire summer hiking at least once a week before doing this walk. This made my experience enjoyable. The trail itself is not difficult, but you mustn’t be fresh off the couch or you’ll be in pain.
      • Hiking shoes are great, but tennis shoes will do just fine. Or in my case, Teva sandals. If you’re a big stickler about wet feet, then definitely bring waterproof shoes (even in the summer, it’s Scotland.) October wasn’t a cold month, so wet feet were fine for me.
      • Don’t buy a GPS. It’s just not necessary. The way is very well marked, and it is difficult to get lost. I didn’t even buy a map.
      • Use your cell phone GPS instead, just as a worst case scenario.
      • This website is super helpful for getting started, as well as a reference while walking. It has a more detailed breakdown of each day.
      • Depending on the time of year, pay attention to when it gets dark and leave early enough to avoid walking in the dark.
      • You’re able to camp along the way, which might be nice in the warmer months, but planning to stay at B&B’s ensured we had a big, hot meal before we started (aside from the two hostels.) A nice meal before the start was necessary, and I didn’t need to eat again until the end of each day.
      • Be flexible. Things don’t always go according to the blueprints.
      • Don’t overthink it. Just walk. Whether you complete this in seven days, six days, eight days, or five, it goes by quick. Enjoy it because it’s a memory that will last a lifetime.

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      It’s been a handful of weeks since I completed this walk, but I constantly crave the simplicity of this type of activity. I really enjoyed waking up and thinking of nothing more than what I wanted for breakfast (which was always the same) and where I was going to end up that night. This was the deepest form of meditation I’ve experienced, and it was amazing. I can’t wait for the next distance walk, I’m officially addicted.

      Q: Would you/have you ever done a distance walk?

      brittany

      | 24 Comments Tagged Distance Walk, Highlands, Scotland, West Highland Way
    • BRITTANY- Self proclaimed minimalistic nomad striving to maintain a balanced, healthy life with good food, long bike rides, deep connections, exploration, and lots of cucumbers.
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