Tag: Travel Abroad

• København, Danmark – Pt. 2

  Posted at 5:00 AM by Brittany, on August 19, 2019

  It’s a good thing visiting a new city means lots of walking or biking, because I did not go hungry in Copenhagen! Living with food sensitivities means I have to be picky about where I eat, so when I find a place that works for me I usually stick to it. This was the case in Copenhagen as well, I ate the same breakfast and lunch everyday.

  Breakfast was eaten on the waterfront strip of Nyhavn, at a restaurant called Ved Kajen. The restaurants in Nyhavn clearly showcase how touristy this waterfront strip is, because all of the restaurants have the same menu. The brunch menu had four options: toast or a croissant, eggs and bacon, avocado toast, and “brunch” which was like a leveled up version of bacon and eggs.

  

  

  I got the bacon and eggs, without toast, add avocado. The side salad was cute, about 1/50th the amount of greens I usually eat in one sitting, but I wasn’t there for the greens. I needed fuel to keep me going more than just a couple hours. This breakfast lasted me the morning of my bike adventure, as well as the following day of sitting on the hop on hop off (hoho) bus.

  The hoho bus was a great idea, we just did it too late in the trip. We were only in Copenhagen for three days, two of which were also travel days. We did the hoho bus our last day (our flight wasn’t until 7pm) but we were only able to ride it once. We did get off the bus at one of the stops – the Rosenborg Castle.

  

  

  Sadly because of the time crunch, we didn’t get to go inside. I guess this means I just have to go back someday! The hoho bus was a good way to spend the morning of our final day, I just wish we had more time to utilize the stops. We had already seen a handful of the stops thanks to our bike adventure the previous day, as well as our walking adventure the day we arrived, but the narrative on the bus provided more history of the city.

  The day we arrived in the city, we started exploring around 1pm, and wasted no time exploring by foot. The walk from our hotel towards the city center brought us through the most beautiful and tranquil park. The park had a large loop with runners/walkers/and bikers enjoying the paths around a lake called Stadsgraven.

  Our first stop was Our Saviour Church, to climb the tower. None of us knew anything about this place, and we stumbled upon it while trying to find something else. Naturally we got in line because #everyoneelsewasdoingit.

  

  We got in line in front of an Australian man, who also had no idea what the tower was. We weren’t sure if we had to pay, or if we could pay with a card, but we quickly learned that everywhere in Copenhagen is not only card friendly, but they are often card ONLY! We climbed the 400 steps of the spiraling tower for an amazing panoramic view of the city.

  I also climbed The Round Tower for a city view the following day, but this view was superior. 

  

  One of my secrets for traveling light – I wear the same outfit more than once.

  

  The tower climb has a charge, but the church itself is free to enter. After climbing the tower we decided to visit the inside. The savior himself sits atop the spiral tower, and the inside had a beautiful blue and gold color scheme. I’ve yet to enter a church I don’t gawk at in Europe, but the simplicity of this one was charming.

  

  

  After preparing our souls with the good vibes of the savior, we made our way across the street to Freetown Christiania. Christiania is an alternative district in Copenhagen that is mostly known for its weed selling. This former military barrack area was taken over by squatters (similar to Metelkova) in 1971, and these days over 900 people live there.

  

  

  The community also has restaurants, a music venue, cafe’s, and souvenirs. There is one strip of area called Pusher Street that is completely dedicated to the selling of weed, which is illegal in Denmark. It seems that although weed is illegal in Denmark, people turn a blind eye to the community of Christiania.

  I tried to get my dad to buy a weed brownie, but no such luck. 

  Aside from the edibles, Christiania also has amazing art work from murals to sculptures to giants made of wood. I can see why people enjoy living within this community, the way of life is carefree and chill. I’m not a smoker of the hash, but to each their own! After doing some research on the area, it appears the original community was not a fan of the weed selling, and local residents of this mini community don’t all appreciate the illegal drug selling.

  

  

  

  You’d have thought we indulged in one too many magic brownies after leaving Christiania, because I WAS SO hungry. I mentioned earlier that my lunch of choice was the same during my time in Copenhagen, which was completely unexpected. Copenhagen is known for their hotdogs and for smørrebrød, an open face sandwich with many different varieties, but both of those have too much bread.

  

  I don’t eat bread (unless I want to be a zombie for a day) and I don’t eat hotdogs, so my meal of choice was found at the outdoor street food market called Broens Gadekøkken. Of all the options at the market, the one that seemed the safest for me was at a place called Dhaba. I flew all the way to Copenhagen to have some bomb ass Indian food.

  Go figure.

  

  I got double veg and double chicken, however there is a vegetarian option as well. I loved the simplicity of the menu’s in Copenhagen making the ordering process much easier. Most of my homemade food has no spices or seasoning, because I just enjoy eating things plain. Plain food is safe food, so this was an extra treat because the flavor just about blew my mouth off my face. There was some spice to the sauce too, which was nice.

  Copenhagen is a very sustainable city, and makes an effort to be as green as possible. The plate served with this Indian food was edible, and made from wheat. I didn’t eat it, but edible plates mean compostable plates! Love me a good sustainable city.

  

  Copenhagen is an amazing city. The people are friendly, the pace is slow, the vibe is chill, and the energy is uplifting. I don’t often feel the need to visit a location twice, but I would visit Copenhagen again. I’d love to see more of Denmark in general, specifically the nature outside of the city.

  I’m thankful to have experienced this quaint city with my dad and my stepmom, they made wonderful travel partners. I’m trying to be more present with my travels, and having family with me on this trip helped me slow down and appreciate the moments more. It’s interesting how traveling helps me grow as a person, even in ways I wouldn’t normally think it would.

  Life is too short to live anywhere but the present moment, especially with family.

  

  Q: Would you indulge in Freetown Christiania edibles? No judgement…

  

  | 22 Comments Tagged Brittanys Life Abroad, Copenhagen, Denmark, Europe, Travel Abroad

• København, Danmark – Pt. 1

  Posted at 5:00 AM by Brittany, on August 15, 2019

  Many moons ago I was watching a documentary about happiness, and learned that Denmark was rated as one of the happiest countries in the world. The Danish people have a strong sense of togetherness, often living in communities with others sharing tasks like a big family. This intrigued me, and I had been wanting to visit this Scandanavian country ever since.

  

  While I’m not usually drawn to big cities, Copenhagen was at the top of my list of places to visit while living in Europe, and after spending a few days visiting I can see why the Danish folk are so damn happy. My dad, my stepmom, and I spent a few days exploring the city, eating the local cuisine, and riding bikes along the back roads.

  Can you even visit Copenhagen without riding a bike?

  One of the perks of traveling with family, is that I get to stay in fancy hotels. Sure, I could buy myself a fancy hotel if I really wanted to, but I typically like traveling light – including where I sleep. We stayed at The Raddison Blu, and the hotel offered all day bike rentals. We spent an entire day riding bikes around to some of the popular locations in Denmark.

  

  Places like…The Marble Church, which is made out of…you guessed it, marble. Before arriving at The Marble Church we passed through the royal courtyard of Amalienborg, home of the Danish royal family.

  

  

  

  Places like…The Citadel, also known as one of Copenhagens Fortresses. This fortress was commissioned in 1662 and sits in a star shape along a beautiful park, with a long trail to wander. I wanted to come here mostly to see the giant windmill tucked in the back.

  

  

  Places like…The Little Mermaid statue, because Hans Christian Andersen, the author of The Little Mermaid book was Danish and lived in Copenhagen. The mermaid has had a rough life, being decapitated twice, painted different colors, and even had an attempted bombing. These events have made her stronger than ever.

  Keep fighting the fight mermaid!

  

  Places like…The Round Tower which happens to be the oldest functioning observatory in Europe. The tower provides a nice view of the city, and has a beautiful spiral ramp, but my favorite part is the original bathroom from the 17th century. The bathroom showcased what it was like to poo into a bottomless pit.

  PortaPotty before it was a thing.

  

  Places like…Gefion Fountain, where according to an ancient legend, Gefion was the goddess who ploughed the island of Zealand out of Sweden. The Swedish king Gylfe offered the goddess Gefion as much land as she was capable of ploughing within one day and one night. Gefion turned her four sons into oxen and ploughed a ton land, thus creating the island of Zealand.

  What a boss. I’d consider having kids if this were an option.

  

  Places like…like places we weren’t sure of what they were. My favorite thing about biking around a new city is discovering things I’d likely miss without the easy transportation.

  

  

  

  

  

  

  Copenhagen Cathedral

  We saw a lot of cool places on our self guided bike tour, but my favorite place was Nyhavn, the 17th century waterfront canal you’d see in a typical photo of Copenhagen. The area was riddled with tourists, but it was a dream. We took a boat cruise our first evening in the city, and this was the central hub of all our adventures.

  

  

  

  Fun fact about Nyhavn: the world’s oldest functioning tattoo parlor is located in the basement of Nyhavn 17. In fact it has been operating since 1884. Notably their most famous client was King Frederik IX.

  Damn, I knew I should have gotten a tattoo!

  

  

  To end our day of biking we parked near a corner restaurant that was a bit less touristy than Nyhavn. We had dinner next to the water, and our server was a charming man from Canada. He didn’t speak a lick of Danish, which makes me want to move to Denmark and work. The amount of English spoken in this city was surprising.

  

  We saw a handful of other places while in Copenhagen, but this post just highlights the things we saw while biking. This was a fun way to explore with only a tentative plan of where we would go. In my next post I’ll share the other places we visited, and the other food I ate!

  Q: What’s your favorite way to see a new city? Bike/formal tour/car/etc…? 

  

  | 21 Comments Tagged Biking, Brittanys Life Abroad, Copenhagen, Denmark, Europe, Nyhavn, Travel Abroad

• Appenzell, Switzerland – Pt. 1

  Posted at 5:00 AM by Brittany, on June 24, 2019

  I’ve been living in Europe for five months now, and it took me five months to go on a trip that sparked a fire in my soul reminding me why I’m here. Don’t get me wrong, the opportunities and experiences I’ve had are amazing, but a lot of the travel I’ve done has felt rushed. I’ve been to Innsbruck, Venice, Prague, Salzburg, Luxembourg, Metz, and Krakow, but none of those trips felt quite like my most recent trip to Switzerland.

  

  Maybe it was the last minute decision – leaving no time to think about anything other than where I was going to sleep, maybe it was the company I had showing me solo travel isn’t something I need as much anymore, maybe it was the rental car providing absolute freedom without stress of transportation, maybe it was the lack of activities – the only goal was to hike, or maybe it was the quiet/isolated mountain town with no tourists.

  Whatever it was, this trip officially holds the top spot of my best trip since living abroad.

  

  My roommate was planning a trip to Appenzell for a few weeks to visit her friend from back in the states, and she extended the invite to my other roommate and I. My schedule doesn’t usually come out until a week in advance, so I didn’t know if I’d have the dates off until the week she was planning to go. The moment I saw I had the two days off, I booked a room in an Air B&B and mentally prepared for two days of hiking in the Swiss Alps.

  

  Appenzell is only a three hour drive from where we live in Bavaria, so my roommate and I left after work on our Friday to maximize our time off. We arrived in the evening, settled into our places of rest (we stayed in different places), and met back up the next morning around 10. The weather was rough our first day, but we didn’t dare waste the opportunity.

  It was raining and cold, but thankfully I’m used to cold and wet hikes. 

  

  

  Our plan for the first day was to summit the Ebenalp, 1644m into the clouds. Before starting our ascent we stopped to walk around the Seealpsee, an amazingly beautiful and moody alpine lake. The cloud cover provided a mystical feel, like a scene out of Lord of the Rings. The lake made a circular loop, but there were small electric fences around it to keep the cows in.

  We didn’t learn how to pass through them until the second day, and when I tried to move one of the fences I shocked myself. 

  

  After waking up all my nerves we decided to walk halfway around the lake and turn around to start our ascent. Mostly because I didn’t dare touch another electric fence. The rain started to slow down as we turned around to start our ascent, which was perfect timing because I was starting to get really cold. I lost feeling in my fingers, which isn’t hard to do (holla Raynaud’s), so I was welcoming the incline to come for some blood flow.

  

  The three of us ended up separating on the hike, moving at our own paces which was great. I settled into the middle and focused solely on putting one foot in front of the other. The hike wasn’t overly strenuous, but it was a decent climb. It was an easy path to follow, but there were still trail markers along the way that were fun to look for.

  

  The first 3/4 or so of this hike is in a wooded forest area with tree covers blocking the views of the surrounding mountains. Once the canopy of trees opened up the clouds started to clear providing an expansive view of the valley below. We stopped for lunch at Aescher Gausthaus, a restaurant built into the wall of the mountains.

  There are a few rooms in the restaurant people can sleep in, but most people stop here for the food. 

  Let me tell you all…the food was divine. I mean loose your mind divine. I had goulash for the first time and spent $24 on it, but it was worth every overpriced penny. Actually it was so good I wouldn’t say it was overpriced at all. It was hearty, flavorful, WARM, and fresh. Plus, I was on a mountain in Switzerland overlooking the alps so I could have been eating chalk and would have enjoyed it.

  

  

  I am still dreaming about that goulash, and this is coming from someone that doesn’t eat red meat nor typically enjoys the flavor of red meat. We sat at the restaurant for a good hour enjoying our pitstop before the last 20 minutes to the top. The staff was incredibly friendly, and our server was accommodating to my food needs which always helps me feel less anxiety when eating out with food sensitivities.

  

  

  The rain had completely stopped, but the weather was still ominous. Despite feeling like a soggy rat I was on cloud nine. Give me a good overcast and chilly day and I feel like I can hike Mount Everest. My body has become extremely sensitive to heat, and I thrive when it’s cold. We made our way the remaining distance to the top, where we spent an additional 30-45 minutes in awe of our surroundings.

  

  

  Cross marks the summit.

  

  

  

  I would have enjoyed a bit more visibility at the top, but I was thankful that it cleared as much as it did. I couldn’t help but sit and stare at the endless rolling hills and thank God for this amazing weekend getaway. I am thankful for my roommate, and her adventurous spirit, and for her invite to Switzerland.

  After our hike we walked around the tiny town of Appenzell, before heading back to my roommate and her friends barn house Air B&B where we grilled over an open flame. I bought chicken, they bought brats, and we literally made a fire in a cave like rock pit where we cooked over hot coals. I’ve never made chicken that tasted so good.

  

  

  

  A belly full of food, a heart full of joy, and a spirit full of adventure, I went to bed that night fully content. I learned on this trip that I am needing more human interaction than I thought I did, and after spending a majority of the last five years alone (by choice) I am seeing (and feeling) the value of being with others.

  The key is finding people who provide a genuine connection, a friendship with substance rather than just an acquaintance.

  Isolation is comfortable for me because it’s easy. It’s easy to avoid rejection from others when you don’t give them the opportunity to reject you, but humans are meant to be social. While I still plan to do things alone, I’m going to start emphasizing the importance of spending time with others. Thankfully I have a small handful of friends here (I can literally count on one hand) that I feel a connection with.

  If all else fails, I can always spend more time with the locals.

  

  Stay tuned for the second part of my trip to Switzerland, including my roommates short video compilation.

  Q: Do you prioritize quality connections with others?

  

  | 14 Comments Tagged Brittanys Life Abroad, Hike, Switzerland, Travel Abroad

• Kraków, Poland

  Posted at 5:00 AM by Brittany, on June 17, 2019

  Had it not been for my interest in visiting Auschwitz, Kraków would not have been a city high on my list of places to see. After spending a few days exploring the city, I can now say it should have been. In fact, I feel the need to go back because there are parts of the city I didn’t spend much time in because my trip was only four days.

  

  

  Getting from the airport to my hostel was simple by bus, and I chose a place within walking distance of the Old Town area and the Main Market Square. I arrived around 5pm, so I spent the final daylight hours on my first day walking the city. I splurged for dinner and bought my first taste of pierogi’s.

  It was in that moment I realized how insanely cheap Kraków is. 

  My pierogi’s cost 10 Polish złoty, which is the equivalent of about $2. I spent the 10 złoty I was gifted from Arlene, a woman I met in Luxembourg last month. She had just visited Poland, and when I told her I was going the following month she gifted me the 10 złoty. Thanks for the meal Arlene!

  

  

  

  I headed back to my hostel for an early night because I had the Auschwitz tour the following morning at 5am. I had every intention of sleeping, but a combination of the pierogi’s (holla food sensitivities!), no AC in the hostel (Poland is humid!), a room right next to the LOUD tram running all night, and the guy on the bunk next to mine with the worst case of bruxism I’ve ever heard – I slept MAYBE two hours.

  Seriously, I thought he was going to wake up with no teeth. 

  Needless to say I felt like hell the next day, and after that I cancelled the remaining two nights in the hostel and booked an apartment. I’m getting too old to sleep in a dorm with other people, because I never sleep well when I do. Day two started at 4am thanks to not being able to sleep, so I walked around before my tour to Auschwitz. I returned to the city around 1 pm after the tour, and once I arrived back in the city I did more exploring by foot.

  

  

  I found my way to Wawel Royal Castle, and spent some time wandering the grounds. It’s free to walk the grounds and to enter the cathedral, which was enough for me to see. Buried in the tombs of the cathedral are some of Poland’s most important people (not that I know any of them), but I didn’t need to know that to want to go inside. I’m all about seeing the inside of a European cathedral.

  Cathedral aside, the grounds of this castle were stunning. Likely some of the most beautiful I’ve seen, and the cathedral exterior is the most eclectic cathedral I’ve seen. 

  

  

  

  

  It’s like whoever built this couldn’t decide what design look they wanted.

  Unfortunately the time I decided to visit Wawel was the time everyone else decided to visit. Including a TON of school kids. I walked into the cathedral and had to walk right back out because the crowd was giving me anxiety. That plus I had coffee and ate a brownie before…two things I typically avoid. Whoops. I still felt like I saw enough though.

  

  Delicious, but actually not worth the anxiety it brought. Food is medicine ya’ll.

  To balance my sugar and caffeine splurge, I grabbed dinner at a traditional Polish restaurant…where I ordered a chicken salad. What can I say, I had to stop splurging. I ended up offering to share my table with two other travelers, who happened to be German. We chatted about Germany and they were lovely dinner friends.

  As I started to head back to my apartment I walked past Church of St Peter and Paul. Out front was a sign advertising a classical concert…in ten minutes. It was perfect timing, and I bought a ticket (cost me about $15, again so cheap.) I didn’t go to a classical concert on my last trip (trying to go in as many new countries as possible), and I was excited to see one in Poland. The venue was beautiful and the music was mesmerizing.

  

  

  

  When I exited the concert it was dark, but I didn’t feel at all unsafe. Typically I don’t like to be out at night alone, but this city was still very much alive. I slowly walked back to my apartment through the city park soaking in the hustle and bustle of those around me.

  It was my favorite evening of the trip. 

  My third day I booked a tour to the Wieliczka Salt Mine, which turned out to be WAY cooler than I expected. I booked the tour because I didn’t know what else to do for the day, and I was pleasantly surprised by how much I enjoyed it. The mine also has a health resort, good for those with respiratory problems. The air is the cleanest air I will ever have breathed due to the salt killing the bacteria.

  

  When I first started to climb down the stairs into the mine, I felt a bit of panic and claustrophobia, but once I was down below the surface of the earth I felt ok. There are still old routes within the mine that miners used to take, however the mine is no longer used for mining. It is still considered active though because the evaporation of water that leaves salt above ground is collected and sold.

  I regret not buying any salt, instead I bought salted chocolate for my mom, and ate half of it. Scheisse.

  

  Salt brine saltier than the Dead Sea.

  

  King carved out of complete salt.

  

  There is an active church within the mine where people can come to get married, and there are carvings in the walls portraying the life of Jesus. It was such a unique room within the mine. Our tour guide told us that because of the bacteria killing properties in salt, we could lick the walls (or floor.) No one took him up on it, but I did after we left the church.

  I figured licking Jesus would be a bit inappropriate. 

  

  NaCl Last Supper.

  The salt mine tour was only about three hours, bringing me back to Kraków in the early afternoon. I headed to the Old Town area to get some food. The outdoor market in the Old Town is like a giant year round farmers market, and I loved it. I bought my pierogi’s from here on my first day, and on that first visit I saw a place cooking chicken and veggies. 

  This was the most expensive meal I had in Kraków, costing me a total of around $12. I was shocked by how “expensive it was” after spending so little the previous meals I had eaten. Then I realized how ridiculous I was for thinking $12 was expensive. The boiled potatoes, veggies, and chicken were amazing and worth every penny.

  

  I stood at an outdoor table under an umbrella in the rain with people around me speaking languages I couldn’t decipher. It was a meal I shan’t soon forget. After I ate I wandered some more, and bought a ticket to climb the towers of St. Mary’s Basilica for a better view of the city. While waiting to enter the tower I saw a guy that sat behind me at the concert the night before.

  He recognized me and stopped to say hello. He was from Brazil, but living in Ireland. We exchanged a few words, and he continued on.

  

  Tower from the ground.

  

  

   

  

  

  My fourth and final day in Kraków I checked out of my apartment and walked over to Oskar Schindler’s Factory. The museum opens at 10 am, and I was in line by 10:30. I spent a little over an hour walking through the museum and by the time I came back out the tickets for the day were sold out. Needless to say I made it just in time.

  While I was waiting in line to enter I met a lovely couple from Belgium. They were on a road trip and planned to stay in Poland until they ran out of Polish złoty. They hadn’t booked their place to stay yet for the night, and everything about what they were doing made me smile. One day I hope to live a life like that with my husband. The woman tried to marry her son off to me, but then we got separated within the museum. Drat.

  

  This museum was not what I expected, it was very cool, but I was hoping for a more authentic feel of the factory. The museum is built in the factory where Oskar Schindler worked and saved the lives of over 1000 Jewish people, but there was so much done to the building for the museum that it didn’t have the factory feel to it.

  Either way, I’m glad I came. 

  My last stop before heading back to the airport was a very quick walk through the Jewish Quarter, which I regrettably didn’t spend more time in. Should I be lucky enough to visit Kraków again I will spend more time in the Jewish Quarter. I will also eat hummus, lot’s of hummus.

  

  

  

  My trip to Poland was just what I’d hoped for, and there was very little stress on this trip (aside from poor choices regarding food, but that was to be expected.) Poland is beautiful, and the park that ran between the city was something I continue to miss in Germany. A park with benches and tall trees and a path.

  I feel completely comfortable traveling alone to other countries now which is such a great feeling. I am confident when navigating public transportation regardless of language barriers, and I daydream of the day when I will travel for longer periods of time without having to return to a home base, or to a job.

  Until then, I will check off new cities as often as I can.

  Q: Where is somewhere you visited that pleasantly surprised you?

  

  | 12 Comments Tagged Brittanys Life Abroad, Kraków, Poland, Travel Abroad

• Metz, France

  Posted at 5:00 AM by Brittany, on May 15, 2019

  In continuation of my last post, I briefly mentioned that in the middle of a somewhat random trip to Luxembourg I also took a slight detour into France for a day and a half. Knowing that Luxembourg was pretty small, but having four days to travel, my friend and I decided to split the time between two locations. We chose Metz France as our second destination because it was a short 50 minute train ride from Luxembourg.

  Just like when I arrived in Luxembourg my first thought of Metz was: “it’s so green here TOO!”

  

  

  I was obsessed with this building.

  

  

  We arrived around 11 am, and after dropping our bags off at our hotel (that’s right, we lived large in France and slept in a hotel instead of a hostel for the same price as our hostel in Luxembourg) we set out to explore the city. It was a bit rainy the day we arrived, so I spent 15 euro to buy an umbrella big enough to fly both Mary Poppins and the children to keep myself dry.

  I sold the umbrella when I returned to Germany because it was too big.

  We wandered for a while before deciding to stop into a French restaurant for a fancy lunch. I had every intention of eating the rotisserie chicken I bought, but once I saw the salad and fresh French baguettes it was game over. Naturally I had to get a French espresso to compare to Italy. It was delicious. Or it could have been the apple dessert I had with homemade ice cream.

  

  Terrible photo, but that cinnamon ice cream was life changing. 

  

  After lunch the sun came out, and I credit this to the rain dance I did in the bathroom trying to get my pants back on. I blame the dessert and baguettes for the struggle with my pants. This was perfect because we were right around the corner from the Metz Cathedral, which has the largest expanse of stained glass in the world. The light shining through the windows was gorgeous.

  We also came back to the cathedral the following morning for Sunday mass (in French) which was so cool. 

  

  

  The sun stayed out for the remainder of the day, and we wandered a few more hours walking through the Covered Market (indoor farmers market similar to Pike Place in Seattle) before stumbling across Le Temple Neuf protestant church. No matter which angle you look at this building from it’s just as beautiful as the one before it.

  The Metz Cathedral is mesmerizing, but this church was likely my favorite building.

  

  Covered Market – meat, fish, cheese, produce, pizza, you name it.

  

  Le Temple Neuf

  

  We then came across an old church that was turned into an art gallery, displaying odd graphic photos depicting some kind of historical stories. They were quite bizarre, and I don’t read French, but I assume there was some kind of meaning behind the exhibit.

  

  

  Our last stop on day one was at the Centre-Pompidou, which I would have skipped had I been alone. I’m not a big museum person, and I’m also not a big modern art person, and this was a modern art museum. It was the most bizarre presentation of art I’ve ever seen. Rooms with large boulders, with comments to stare at the rock because normally we don’t, rooms with walls painted different colors, rooms with cotton, it was just bizarre and not my cup of tea.

  After the odd art we made our way back to our hotel (behind the train station, which holds the title as most beautiful exterior train station I’ve seen in Europe) and called it an early night. I slept great and woke up the next morning ready for day two. We started our morning at a local cafe, which was hands down the best European cafe I have been to yet. It’s called Fox Coffee, an independent coffee shop run by extremely friendly French folk.

  

  

  

  My inner crunchy granola wannabe vegan was dying at the vegan and gluten free treats, as well as the adorable interior. I would go back to Metz JUST to go to this cafe. We got a breakfast platter that came with fresh bread, homemade Nutella/peanut butter/jam/local honey, and an egg soufflé. I could have sat in this shop all day.

  After successfully stuffing myself with food my body hates, we were off to explore more of the city. We found a park that was hosting a 5K and my inner runner was dying at this atmosphere too. Most days I have come to terms with my “I don’t run or eat vegan anymore because my body doesn’t like it” lifestyle, but some days I really miss it. I made my friend stand with me while I watched the runners.

  

  Archway leading towards the park.

  

  

  Park graffiti.

  

  There were only a few more places we wanted to see before catching our train back to Luxembourg at 1600, the most important being the Porte des Allemands which is a fortified city gate that serves as a bridge over the river. Its placement seems somewhat odd as it sits in the center of a city, but it was beautiful nonetheless. Granted, this was built long before the city.

  

  

  

  Metz was another hidden gem of a city, a place I’d have never seen had it not been for the Lufthansa Surprise (as mentioned in my last post.) Both Luxembourg and Metz France were small and are not tourist destinations which was a nice change of pace. The people were friendly, the food was good, and the architecture was beautiful.

  Another two countries in the books, and I’m now into double digit countries visited. This was my sixth country visited since moving to Germany, what a wild ride.

  Q: Would you attend a mass in a different language? I’m not catholic, but this was a really cool experience. 

  

  | 18 Comments Tagged Brittanys Life Abroad, Cafe, Cathedral, France, Travel Abroad

• My First German Summit

  Posted at 5:00 AM by Brittany, on April 29, 2019

  I’ve been posting about my travels outside of Germany lately, but haven’t said much about my time spent IN Germany. It’s so easy for me to loose track of the beauty around me because anytime I have three days off (sometimes even just two) I’m looking at other countries I can travel to. It’s funny how Germany feels like “home” and just like when I’m back in Washington, I want to get away from my home and into the world.

  

  Contrary to popular belief, I DO work here. I work close to full time averaging around 35 hours a week, but I make it a priority to get out and away as much as I can. Something as simple as a walk (or soon a bike ride!) into town is a helpful reprieve and reminds me I am in another country. The hotel I work at is American, and after a few days of not leaving the American military bases I am in dire need of an escape. Hearing people speak German, or exploring the alps is all I need to recharge.

  I’ve managed to get into the surrounding mountains a few times, and as the snow continues to melt I look forward to my summer of hiking in my “hometown” of Garmisch. My first taste of the alps was a short 30ish minute hike to what we call “the swing.” I have been to the swing twice, and the second time I happened to meet a German guy admiring the view. He casually mentioned he built the swing, and has only ever met American’s at the hidden spot.

  

  

  After I visited the swing I explored more of the area nearby. I’m literally surrounded by mountains, but have mostly stuck to a mountain called the Kramer. I plan to summit the Kramer soon, but my first semi climb on the Kramer was to one of the many hütte’s in the alps. One thing I love about the German mountains is that they have hütte’s all over them, which are restaurant cafe’s where people stop for a bite, a beer, or a baked good.

  

  

  I made my way up to Sankt Martinshütte on one of my days off for a view of the city and a cup of tea. It was a moderate climb and felt good to dust off my heart muscle after a sedentary winter. Both the swing and Sankt Martinshütte are accessible by foot from the hotel I live in/work at, and there are so many other trails nearby that will be great for a day off or for an after work decompression.

  

  

  My third mountain adventure, and first official summit since living in Germany was on the Wank. The Wank is a bit further (will be easy to get to when I buy a bike), so I drove with some friends the first time I explored it, and took a bus the second time. The first time I went I didn’t summit, I just went up part way to Tannenhütte for a post work adventure. My friends had a drink, and I soaked up the views.

  

  

  After figuring out how to get to the Wank I felt comfortable going alone the second time so I could summit. I was a bit premature with this decision, because there was still quite a bit of snow at the top. I wore trail running shoes with minimal traction and was a bit scared coming back down, but I was too stubborn to turn back without hitting the top. I was the first of my coworkers (that I know of) to summit the Wank for the season, and three weeks later others started to make the Wank their first summit of the season too.

  Shameless brag. 

  

  

  

  I met two German women at the top that thought I was crazy for not having the right shoes or any trekking poles. The Wank is 5840ft with about 3500ft of elevation gain. I was surprised I hit the summit as easily as I did. It was a push, but I felt stronger than I expected. It was probably the waffles and coffee I splurged on for breakfast. Thanks to Alfred, I felt the push after my hike (and thanks to my breakfast choice) and was out of commission for a day or so, but these things are just a part of life with an autoimmune disease.

  

  

  

  At the top of the Wank there is a hütte called the Wankhaus. It was closed when I went because I went before it was open for the season, so I’ll have to return sometime for a tea. I tried to hike the Wank again a few weeks later, but my body was not having it. I only made it 1/3 of the way up and had to turn back. I had a small pity party and then had to get over it. The hardest part about living with Sjogrens is listening to my body when it tells me “no.”

  

  View from my bedroom, where I spend a good amount of time resting.

  Any movement is better than no movement, and I love how the German culture in Bavaria is very active. I love seeing the locals out walking the trails. Old, young, dogs, pointy ear squirrels – you name it. Regardless of age, people are out walking the flat and manageable trails and sometimes I need those reminders that it’s ok to not always climb UP a mountain, but walking around one is just as beneficial.

  Admittedly it can be hard not to compare my abilities now to my abilities before I was diagnosed with Sjogrens. Mentally I still want to run all the miles, and climb all the mountains, but physically I just don’t always have it in me. I feel lazy when I struggle, but my fatigue can be so bad it’s hard to put one foot in front of the other. When I push too hard my joints hurt, my back aches, my organs feel funny, my lungs struggle to get air in them, my skin breaks out in itchy rashes, and then I take days to recover.

  Alas, I will not quit I just have to moderate. Without the climbs, there are no amazing views. 

  

  View of Munich from St. Peters Church after climbing 300 steps.

  All this to say life is Germany is moving along. I’d be lying if I said it were easy, and most days I struggle with my health, but I’m doing the best I can for now. Bavaria is beautiful, and I’d be remiss not to make the most of my time here. One day at a time!

  Q: Do you listen to your body when it tells you it needs to rest?

  

  | 16 Comments Tagged Brittanys Life Abroad, Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany, Hike, Hiking, Solo Hike, Travel Abroad

• Salzburg, Austria – Pt.2

  Posted at 5:00 AM by Brittany, on April 23, 2019

  Before I went to Salzburg, I knew that the city was famous for some of the Sound of Music filming locations. I did some Google searching to find out my options to visit these locations, and settled on a three hour bike tour. I’m not normally one to take a formal tour, but when there are bikes included I can be convinced. The tour turned out to be one of the best decisions I had made all month. 

  

  

  Most people take a bus tour, but I knew I wanted to ride a bike around Salzburg so this was the perfect activity for me. My group had eleven people consisting of mostly other Americans, some British folks, and a cute Australian guy. The tour took us to multiple filming locations, and through some of the outskirts of Salzburg. Getting out of the city center was so much fun, and the weather was absolute perfection.

  

  Maria’s Abbey

  

  The lake terrace scenes at the von Trapp’s family home were all shot at the baroque Leopoldskron Palace dating back to 1736.

  

  The actual “16 going on 17” gazebo.

  

  View of Untersberg Mountain – referenced in movie.

  While riding through the outskirts of the city, we had a stereo playing songs from the movie. The wind was slightly blowing, the sun was out, and I couldn’t slap the smile off my face if I’d tried. 

  One of my favorite filming locations, which I visited multiple times while in Salzburg, was the Mirabell Palace and Gardens. The gardens at the palace are said to be among some of the most beautiful gardens in the world. I visited the gardens the previous day, as well as later that evening for a concert.

  

  

  

  

  

  My only regret of this tour, was not being able to visit Werfen, aka the picnic meadow where they sang “Do Re Mi.“ This town is about a 40 minute train ride outside of Salzburg, so I plan to return to walk the “Sound of Music Trail” INTO the Austrian alps. Overall this was such a fun way to see the city and to see some of the filming locations. I wish I had watched the movie the night before (my hostel shows the film every night at 8p) but I’m an old lady and need my sleep.

  After the bike tour I lost my morals and grabbed a Salzburg Pretzel, which was basically a pastry in the shape of a pretzel covered in chocolate. The pretzel was the size of my face…twice. It was intense. I chomped on my sins as I walked towards Mozarts Geburtshaus, aka Mozarts birthplace. It only made sense to stand in the room where Mozart was born, before listening to his music at a concert in Mirabell Palace later that evening.

  As regular readers know, I’ve made it a priority to see a classical concert in each new country I visit while living in Europe, and Salzburg was no exception.

   

  

  

  “In this room Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was born on January 27, 1756.”

  

  I stood in the birth room for a full five minutes soaking in the music playing through the speakers. It was a surreal moment to stand in this room. Regardless of whether you’re a fan of his music or not, Mozart was a huge influence on classical music. His talents will live on forever. Sorry, I think the sugar rush from the pretzel was seeping through my fingers as I typed that.

  After I visited Mozarts birthplace, I made sure to walk past the house the Mozart family moved to next. I didn’t feel the need to go inside, and I started to feel the effects of the pretzel and the Mozartkugel I had eaten and needed a small break from wandering. I headed back to my hostel for a bit to shower and change, and then it was time to visit the Mirabell Palace and Gardens again, but this time to go inside. I had booked a ticket for a Mozart concert and I got a front row seat.

  

  The palace was built in 1606, and is used today for concerts and weddings. The room where the concert was held is full of gold and marble, I can see why people want to get married there. The palace staircase felt like a scene from Titanic, and every detail was immaculate. The musicians were amazing, and they all looked so young.

  I’m constantly in awe of those who can play a musical instrument. I played the clarinet for a few years when I was in school, but couldn’t play a song if my life depended on it today (except for hot cross buns, forever for the HCB.) I’d always wanted to learn piano, but never made the time for it. I’m a sucker for piano, and my future husband will not only be able to build me a house in a flannel with a beard, he will also play the piano.

  

  I left the next morning around 10am. I would have stayed a bit longer, but the weather turned crummy and I felt I’d seen all I needed for this trip. Plus the longer I stay places the longer I’m off track with my eating and start to feel like I’ve been hit by a train. I had a great last minute trip to Salzburg, and am happy I live so close to such amazing cities full of history.

  Q: Are you a Sound of Music fan?

  

  | 28 Comments Tagged Austria, Bike, Brittanys Life Abroad, Mozart, Salzburg, Sound of Music, Travel, Travel Abroad

• Salzburg, Austria – Pt. 1

  Posted at 5:00 AM by Brittany, on April 17, 2019

  Last week I was lucky enough to snag another three day weekend. If it hasn’t become obvious to those of you who regularly read my blog, I have a bit of an addiction to traveling. Sometimes I need to take it down a notch and remember to appreciate the trip I just went on before trying to jump into another one. Living in Europe makes that difficult! I decided to go to Salzburg for a couple days because it’s only about a 3.5hr train ride away.

  

  I actually ended up deciding the day of that I wanted to go, and booked my train and hostel in a matter of minutes. I had looked up options a few days prior, but didn’t pull the trigger until an hour before I was to catch the train. Sometimes last minute decisions are the best. I arrived in Salzburg around 3pm, which gave me enough daylight to get acclimated to the city for a few hours.

  

  I dedicated my first afternoon to wandering the city, and the Hohensalzburg Fortress. The Fortress was built in 1077 and is the largest fully preserved castle in Central Europe. To access the fortress you can walk up a relatively large hill, or you can ride up in a Funicular. I’m always down for a walk, and I’m too cheap to pay for the easy way, so I walked up the hill and earned my view. The museum was closed when I visited, which I was more than ok with, so I only had to pay 4 euro to walk around the grounds.

  

  

  The fortress was huge, and I spent about an hour walking around and appreciating the views. I can’t help but wonder what it was like living in castles like this when they were actively used by European royalty. I also wonder what the view was like back then. The view now is amazing, and provides an arial shot of the Salzburg Cathedral. The view walking up to the fortress was great too, and each twist and turn provided a different angle of the city.

  

  

  

  

  Salzburg Cathedral dome and towers in the middle/right.

  After I pretended I was Salzburg royalty I walked around the city for a while before it got dark. Near the hill up to the fortress is a gate that leads into St. Peters Abbey and Cemetery. Never have I ever seen a more beautiful cemetery in my life. It was small, but the effort the families put into each burial spot was amazing. This cemetery was the inspiration for one of the scenes in the Sound of Music, when the Trapp family fled through the cemetery to hide before fleeing to Switzerland.

  More on the Sound of Music filming locations later. 

  

  Notice the dwelling in the wall of the cliff? Upper left.

  

  

  Salzburg Cathedral dome in the back.

  The dwellings in the cliff wall apparently served as both hermitages and burial sites. I didn’t discover the dwelling was accessible until after I left. There are stairs leading up to the dwelling, and the entrance is found at the foot of Mozarts sisters grave. Yea, the Mozart. Honestly I’m super bummed I didn’t know about the stairs leading up, looks like I’ll have to return!

  From the cemetery I found my way to the Dom zu Salzburg, aka the Salzburg Cathedral. The large onion dome and two smaller towers in front of it are seen in a few of the above photos. The cathedral was destroyed and rebuilt multiple times by fires, but you’d never know by walking through the isles. It was beautiful inside, as are all European cathedrals. There is a lot of history inside the cathedral, but the one that resonated most with me was that Mozart was baptized in this cathedral.

  

  Photo of a photo I was given for making a donation.

  

  

  The rest of my first day in Salzburg was spent preparing for the following morning. Day one was a mere four hours in the city, but it was already off to a great start. I stayed at the YoHo Int. Youth Hostel, and it was very close to both the train station and the city center. I stayed in a four female dorm, and my first night there were three Koreans in the room with me. Thankfully they were very quiet, as I needed a goodnights sleep for day two!

  ….to be continued!

  Q: Can you make last minute decisions for an adventure, or do you need everything planned prior?

  

  | 22 Comments Tagged Austria, Brittanys Life Abroad, Europe, Salzburg, Travel, Travel Abroad

• Prague, Czech Republic

  Posted at 5:00 AM by Brittany, on April 12, 2019

  I’ve been living in Germany for nearly three months now, and I have yet to take a trip where I had to actually request time off (those will come.) The beauty of proximity is that when I have three days off in a row thanks to the luck of the draw, I can go most anywhere within the surrounding countries for a last minute trip. This was the case for a visit to Prague at the beginning of last month, I had three days off and it just so happened my roommate and some friends were going to Prague.

  I booked my bus ticket a few nights before, snagged a spot in the hostel they were staying, and prepped myself for my first overnight bus ride. The best way to maximize travel time for trips like this is to take a night bus. We all worked our last shift before our extended weekends, and took a bus that evening. The bus left around 8pm, and arrived in Prague around 6am the next morning.

  

  

  Arriving at 6am allowed for two full days in the city, which was a great amount of time to explore the highlights. We dropped off our bags at our hostel (we stayed at the Czech Inn) and ventured towards the city center. Our first stop was somewhat unexpected, but we walked passed a shop selling a treat that Prague is famous for (although these treats are not only in Prague.) I try my damndest to avoid all things gluten, grain, sugar, carb heavy and dairy, but I wanted to partake.

  I definitely payed for it later, but when in Prague! #effyouAlfred

  The treat is called a trdelník, which is basically a sugared ball of dough that is cooked by rolling it over a flame, and then can be stuffed with a myriad of things. I chose ice cream, because I’m a sucker for pain. It was an amazing 5 minutes of my life consuming this treat with a shot of espresso. These trdelník treats were everywhere, some stuffed with savory things like mac and cheese and roasted duck.

  

  

  

  After a successful sugar rush, we walked around a farmers market of sorts on our way to the Astronomical Clock. This clock is the oldest working astronomical clock in Europe, and has been working for over 600 years. This was by far the coolest clock I’ve ever seen. So much detail went into the making of this medieval piece of history. Next to the clock is a beautiful cathedral called Church of Our Lady before Tyn. The church was built in the 14th century, and has two noticeably pointy towers.

  

  

  

  

  After watching the clock go off, we headed towards the Charles Bridge. The bridge is just around the river bend from the Old Town Square where the clock is located. Prague is a very walker friendly city, and I felt like a local after the first day. It is said that egg yolks were mixed into the mortar to strengthen the construction of the bridge, what an interesting choice. The bridge began construction in 1357, and was finished in the 15th century.

  On the bridge there are many religious and historical statues and plaques, some of which have significance if you touch them. Apparently the hand rubbed plaques bring good luck, and will ensure your return to Prague. I touched multiple plaques just because…when in Prague. The views from the bridge are beautiful, and there were performers along the way that warmed my soul. I love me a good street performance.

  The photos below are from the bridge on two different days, one with overcast and one with sun.

  

  

  

  

  

  Across the bridge leads to the Prague Castle, as well as our next destination. A trip to Prague would not be complete without a visit to the John Lennon Wall, a rainbow attraction of love and peace. After his murder on 8 December 1980, John Lennon became a pacifist hero for many young Czechs. 40 years after his death his memory continues to shine at this unique wall. I added my own contribution to the wall (which is apparently what people do) and wrote “love all beings” in an outline of a dog.

  My legacy of animal love will forever be in Prague. Unless someone paints over it. 

  

  

  The Fab Four.

  

  After getting our fix of love, we headed towards the castle. It turned out the castle was closed to the public this day, for a reason we never discovered. Thankfully we came back the next morning and were able to tour around the grounds. The castle itself, though HUGE, was underwhelming. What stole the show was surely St. Vitus Cathedral. Have I mentioned I LOVE the cathedrals in Europe!? The walk to the castle was lovely, and we stopped for a cuppa Joe, and a petta the puppa.

  

  

  

  We ended our first day in Prague with a Thai foot massage…aka tiny fish eating away at all the dead skin on our calves and feet. I’ll spare you the photos, but rest assured this was a bizarre and amazing experience. I don’t think I’ll ever need to do it again, but…when in Prague! Day two consisted of visiting the castle, wandering more around the city, and capping off our trip with a Vivaldi concert.

  I am loving my tradition of finding a classical concert to attend each new country I visit.

  

  

  

  This quick trip to Prague was a great way to see the city. Our bus back to Germany left around 11am the third morning, and we made it back home about 10 hours later. The bus rides aren’t quick, but they’re cheap. Usually the bus ride isn’t terrible, because there is so much to see along the way to or from. My only regret is not getting a second trdelník (I was in my head too much on this trip, something I’m always trying to learn from.)

  I withdrew around 1000 Czech Koruna, which was around 40 euro. Spending 100 koruna at a time was misleading, I often had to check my currency converter to see how much I was really spending. As with all my travels, I don’t seek out souvenirs unless they speak to me, and when wandering the farmers market area on day one I found my must have souvenir. The cost was 50 koruna, which was a little over $2. I’m really into art work from different countries, so this steam punk looking cat with the old town view in the background was everything I could have wanted out of a souvenir.

  

  And just like that, I’d marked my eighth European country off my list.

  Q: What’s a must for you when you visit a new country?

  

  | 16 Comments Tagged Charles Bridge, Czech Republic, Europe, Prague, Travel, Travel Abroad

• Fasching in Mittenwald

  Posted at 5:00 AM by Brittany, on March 14, 2019

  Every year before Lent, German speaking countries begin a period of religious celebrations called Fasching. Some areas in Germany and Switzerland call this Mardi Gras like carnival celebration something else like Fastnacht or Fastnet, but where I am living it’s called Fasching. This pre-lenten party begins on November 11, and 11:11 a.m. and finishes on Ash Wednesday. The hight of the celebrations happen the week of lent, and in this time the locals party hard and dress in costume.

  

  

  There is a common costume theme among the locals similar to the photos above. Wild animals, witches, and creepy masks that resemble your great uncle Brad that no one really invites to Thanksgiving dinner anymore. According to the internet, these cultural costumes are said to drive out evil spirits of winter in preparation for spring, and to show the contrast between good and evil. The traditional theme has medieval roots giving the costumes their dark creepy vibes.

  Some people dress in typical Halloween like costumes of whatever they fancy, but my favorite were those that stuck to tradition. My town had a late night Fasching party at a restaurant, but my old lady bones wanted to sleep. I was stoked to discover that there was a small celebration a couple towns over from where I live in a town called Mittenwald. The Mittenwald Karneval started at 1 p.m. which is a time of day I can get behind.

  

  

  This was the final day of celebration, and while it would have been fun to travel a bit further to Munich for a bigger celebration, I was glad I went to Mittenwald. There were lots of children running around in costumes hollering weird noises and whipping whips. The whipping was actually slightly terrifying and I cannot seem to find the significance of this. Apparently harassment is a thing during Fasching (playful harassment) because I was hit with a broom by a 4’5″ witch.

  I also saw kids pushing adults, adults poking at other adults with sticks, and of course beer. Plenty of beer.

  

  Although I don’t drink, I enjoy being around those that do in Germany. Only if they’re locals though. Germans don’t get as obnoxious as Americans because it’s legal to drink in public here at all times of day. The bartenders serving shots and beer at this carnival celebration were taking shots with the customers, it was fun. I don’t know what I enjoyed more: watching the workers drink with customers, or watching elderly women taking shots out of mini ice cream cones.

  

  As if the Fasching celebration wasn’t enough, the Marienplatz in Mittenwald is adorable. It’s small, but with the chaos of the carnival it was alive and booming. The music was traditional, and my friend and I grabbed a seat in the middle of all the action so I could enjoy some tea. Not just any tea, but a “this tea is warmed by a tea light candle” type of tea. It was bougie as hell, so I drank it with my pinkies up.

  

  

  Of all the things I saw in Mittenwald, my favorite by far was the mountain directly behind the train station. As we walked off the train towards town, I happened to turn around and there she was. I love the look of snow on top of a mountain, the white really makes the contrast POP. No matter where we went, she was towering above it all.

  

  

  

  This visit to Mittenwald was a short one, but I’ll be back to explore more of the small town eventually. Next year during the Fasching festivities I might be more inclined to stay out after dark, but for my first time I was glad to party with my kind of people. Aka small children and adults that own small children.

  If you happen to be in Germany the week of Lent I highly recommend going to a Fasching event. For those who want to read more about Fasching, this blog post has another first hand experience with a bit more history. Until next year Germany!

  Q: Would you rather go to a big event, or a smaller less touristy event?

  

  | 6 Comments Tagged Fasching, Germany, Lent, Living Abroad, Mittenwald, Travel Abroad

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• BRITTANY- Self proclaimed minimalist "granola" striving to maintain a balanced, healthy life with good food, long hikes, strong relationships, exploration, lots of broccoli, and laughing like it's my J.O.B. Currently living and working in Germany, join me on my adventures abroad!
• Contact: blissfulbritt@yahoo.com

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