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  • Author Archives: Brittany

    • Metz, France

      Posted at 5:00 AM by Brittany, on May 15, 2019

      In continuation of my last post, I briefly mentioned that in the middle of a somewhat random trip to Luxembourg I also took a slight detour into France for a day and a half. Knowing that Luxembourg was pretty small, but having four days to travel, my friend and I decided to split the time between two locations. We chose Metz France as our second destination because it was a short 50 minute train ride from Luxembourg.

      Just like when I arrived in Luxembourg my first thought of Metz was: “it’s so green here TOO!”

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      I was obsessed with this building.

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      We arrived around 11 am, and after dropping our bags off at our hotel (that’s right, we lived large in France and slept in a hotel instead of a hostel for the same price as our hostel in Luxembourg) we set out to explore the city. It was a bit rainy the day we arrived, so I spent 15 euro to buy an umbrella big enough to fly both Mary Poppins and the children to keep myself dry.

      I sold the umbrella when I returned to Germany because it was too big.

      We wandered for a while before deciding to stop into a French restaurant for a fancy lunch. I had every intention of eating the rotisserie chicken I bought, but once I saw the salad and fresh French baguettes it was game over. Naturally I had to get a French espresso to compare to Italy. It was delicious. Or it could have been the apple dessert I had with homemade ice cream.

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      Terrible photo, but that cinnamon ice cream was life changing. 

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      After lunch the sun came out, and I credit this to the rain dance I did in the bathroom trying to get my pants back on. I blame the dessert and baguettes for the struggle with my pants. This was perfect because we were right around the corner from the Metz Cathedral, which has the largest expanse of stained glass in the world. The light shining through the windows was gorgeous.

      We also came back to the cathedral the following morning for Sunday mass (in French) which was so cool. 

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      The sun stayed out for the remainder of the day, and we wandered a few more hours walking through the Covered Market (indoor farmers market similar to Pike Place in Seattle) before stumbling across Le Temple Neuf protestant church. No matter which angle you look at this building from it’s just as beautiful as the one before it.

      The Metz Cathedral is mesmerizing, but this church was likely my favorite building.

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      Le Temple Neuf

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      We then came across an old church that was turned into an art gallery, displaying odd graphic photos depicting some kind of historical stories. They were quite bizarre, and I don’t read French, but I assume there was some kind of meaning behind the exhibit.

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      Our last stop on day one was at the Centre-Pompidou, which I would have skipped had I been alone. I’m not a big museum person, and I’m also not a big modern art person, and this was a modern art museum. It was the most bizarre presentation of art I’ve ever seen. Rooms with large boulders, with comments to stare at the rock because normally we don’t, rooms with walls painted different colors, rooms with cotton, it was just bizarre and not my cup of tea.

      After the odd art we made our way back to our hotel (behind the train station, which holds the title as most beautiful exterior train station I’ve seen in Europe) and called it an early night. I slept great and woke up the next morning ready for day two. We started our morning at a local cafe, which was hands down the best European cafe I have been to yet. It’s called Fox Coffee, an independent coffee shop run by extremely friendly French folk.

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      My inner crunchy granola wannabe vegan was dying at the vegan and gluten free treats, as well as the adorable interior. I would go back to Metz JUST to go to this cafe. We got a breakfast platter that came with fresh bread, homemade Nutella/peanut butter/jam/local honey, and an egg soufflé. I could have sat in this shop all day.

      After successfully stuffing myself with food my body hates, we were off to explore more of the city. We found a park that was hosting a 5K and my inner runner was dying at this atmosphere too. Most days I have come to terms with my “I don’t run or eat vegan anymore because my body doesn’t like it” lifestyle, but some days I really miss it. I made my friend stand with me while I watched the runners.

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      Archway leading towards the park.

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      Park graffiti.

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      There were only a few more places we wanted to see before catching our train back to Luxembourg at 1600, the most important being the Porte des Allemands which is a fortified city gate that serves as a bridge over the river. Its placement seems somewhat odd as it sits in the center of a city, but it was beautiful nonetheless. Granted, this was built long before the city.

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      Metz was another hidden gem of a city, a place I’d have never seen had it not been for the Lufthansa Surprise (as mentioned in my last post.) Both Luxembourg and Metz France were small and are not tourist destinations which was a nice change of pace. The people were friendly, the food was good, and the architecture was beautiful.

      Another two countries in the books, and I’m now into double digit countries visited. This was my sixth country visited since moving to Germany, what a wild ride.

      Q: Would you attend a mass in a different language? I’m not catholic, but this was a really cool experience. 

      brittany

      | 18 Comments Tagged Brittanys Life Abroad, Cafe, Cathedral, France, Travel Abroad
    • Luxembourg City

      Posted at 5:00 AM by Brittany, on May 9, 2019

      Most of my travels while living in Germany have been solo because I enjoy traveling alone, and because it can be hard to plan a trip with another person here. It isn’t a guarantee that all parties interested will get the time off approved, so it’s best to take advantage of time off when it happens. Often that means traveling solo.

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      Solo travelers meet other solo travelers.

      Despite my solo preference, I requested some time off for a trip to Norway with one of the girls I arrived in Germany with. When we received our approvals, we realized our days were staggered and the overlap only gave us four days off together. We then realized four days in Norway is not enough time, so it was back to the drawing board.

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      After throwing around a few other possible places to visit, we decided to play travel roulette and book a Lufthansa Surprise. The way this works is you first choose from a handful of categories consisting of: Go East, Arts & Sights, The Great Outdoors, Follow the Sun, Go With the Bro, Urban Adventures, Party On, For the Lovers, and Shoes and Shops.

      I’ll give you one guess which category I chose.

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      Each category then has subcategories consisting of 7-9 countries that you could possibly go to, as well as a price attached to it. The price starts at a flat rate ranging from 69-99 euro for a round trip plane ticket, and the price goes up by 5 euro for each subcategory country that you deselect. The idea is that the more flexible you are for where they might send you, the cheaper your flight will be.

      The Lufthansa Surprise only works for travel to and from two airports – Munich and Frankfurt. 

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      Once you’ve chosen your category, and deselected any subcategories that you reallllyy don’t want to visit – you book your ticket. The kicker is you don’t find out where you are being sent until after you pay – hence the surprise. We chose the category The Great Outdoors which consisted of: Copenhagen, Gdansk, Gothenburg, Larnaca, Luxembourg, Oslo, and Stockholm.

      We deselected Gdansk and Larnaka because she didn’t want to go to Poland, and I didn’t want to go to the beach.

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      We would have been content with any of the other locations, but our last choice was Luxembourg. Luxembourg is a small country that is sandwiched between Germany, France, and Belgium. It’s not a big tourist destination, and I honestly knew nothing about it. After a snap, crackle, and pop the computer screen showed us we were being sent to……Luxembourg! HA.

      Initially I was indifferent about this destination, but after spending a couple days in Luxembourg City I was pleasantly surprised by how beautiful it is. It’s small, and you don’t need much more than two days there (we also spent some time in France, which will be my next post) but I am so glad that I was able to visit this city. I would have never gone to Luxembourg had it not been for the Lufthansa surprise.

      Most activities in the city are free, the bus system is fantastic (4 euro gets you a pass for all public transportation for the entire day), and the city was SO GREEN.

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      The city is very walkable, and while there aren’t any huge tourist attractions I loved the parks that are smack dab in the middle of the city. The above four photos are from the central park area where they had layers of areas to walk, a playground area, and an outdoor exercise area. I didn’t realize how much I missed the idea of a simple park until visiting Luxembourg.

      We arrived our first day in the city around 3pm, and spent a good four hours just walking around and seeing all the beauty. The only “museum” thing we did in the city was walking the Casemates du Bock, which is basically a series of tunnel forts in a cliff wall dating back to 1443.

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      View from the Bock, peeking towards another area of the Bock – window holes.

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      We stayed at the Luxembourg City Hostel, which was great, and one of the guys at the front desk told us to ride up the Pfaffenthal Lift, which is a glass bottom elevator giving a lift from the bottom of the city to the upper part and provides a great view. The lift is free and worth every penny.

      I also spent some time inside the Norte Dame Cathedral, listening to a mass take place in French. The language in Luxembourg is predominately French which was surprising to me. I assumed because it was close to Germany that German would be their language, alas I was wrong.

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      The rest of day one in the city was spent wandering and seeing the beautiful architecture. We were blessed with great weather, which wasn’t the case for the majority of our trip. Day two and half of day three were spent in France, but the second half of day three and day four were spent back in Luxembourg.

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      Day four was dedicated to a trip just outside of the city, north in Luxembourg to a town called Vianden. Here I had my heart set on visiting the Vianden Castle aka Chateau de Vianden. This castle is considered one of the largest and most majestic feudal manors dating from Romanesque and Gothic periods in Europe.

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      To get to the castle we took a train to Ettelbruck, and from Ettelbruck took a bus to Vianden – all for four euro (round trip!) thanks to Luxembourg’s cheap transportation system. We spent a few hours in Vianden, admiring the 10th century castle, walking along the river, and riding on a ski lift. The ski lift took us up to a wooded area where we then walked towards the castle.

      We ended our Vianden adventure at a fancy schmancy restaurant where I had a delicious salad, and an older gentleman next to me looked at my meal and said “bon appétit” and it was legit cause he spoke French.

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      Luxembourg was indeed an outdoor lover’s destination and I felt I spent the perfect amount of time there. Overall I had about two days to explore the city center and Vianden. Don’t mark this tiny country off the list just yet, it has some hidden beauty not many tourists get to see! Up next is the other half of this trip, a day and a half spent in Metz, France.

      Q: Would you ever book a Lufthansa Surprise?

      brittany

      | 23 Comments Tagged Brittanys Life Abroad, Castle, Europe, Luxembourg, Vianden Castle
    • My First German Summit

      Posted at 5:00 AM by Brittany, on April 29, 2019

      I’ve been posting about my travels outside of Germany lately, but haven’t said much about my time spent IN Germany. It’s so easy for me to loose track of the beauty around me because anytime I have three days off (sometimes even just two) I’m looking at other countries I can travel to. It’s funny how Germany feels like “home” and just like when I’m back in Washington, I want to get away from my home and into the world.

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      Contrary to popular belief, I DO work here. I work close to full time averaging around 35 hours a week, but I make it a priority to get out and away as much as I can. Something as simple as a walk (or soon a bike ride!) into town is a helpful reprieve and reminds me I am in another country. The hotel I work at is American, and after a few days of not leaving the American military bases I am in dire need of an escape. Hearing people speak German, or exploring the alps is all I need to recharge.

      I’ve managed to get into the surrounding mountains a few times, and as the snow continues to melt I look forward to my summer of hiking in my “hometown” of Garmisch. My first taste of the alps was a short 30ish minute hike to what we call “the swing.” I have been to the swing twice, and the second time I happened to meet a German guy admiring the view. He casually mentioned he built the swing, and has only ever met American’s at the hidden spot.

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      After I visited the swing I explored more of the area nearby. I’m literally surrounded by mountains, but have mostly stuck to a mountain called the Kramer. I plan to summit the Kramer soon, but my first semi climb on the Kramer was to one of the many hütte’s in the alps. One thing I love about the German mountains is that they have hütte’s all over them, which are restaurant cafe’s where people stop for a bite, a beer, or a baked good.

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      I made my way up to Sankt Martinshütte on one of my days off for a view of the city and a cup of tea. It was a moderate climb and felt good to dust off my heart muscle after a sedentary winter. Both the swing and Sankt Martinshütte are accessible by foot from the hotel I live in/work at, and there are so many other trails nearby that will be great for a day off or for an after work decompression.

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      My third mountain adventure, and first official summit since living in Germany was on the Wank. The Wank is a bit further (will be easy to get to when I buy a bike), so I drove with some friends the first time I explored it, and took a bus the second time. The first time I went I didn’t summit, I just went up part way to Tannenhütte for a post work adventure. My friends had a drink, and I soaked up the views.

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      After figuring out how to get to the Wank I felt comfortable going alone the second time so I could summit. I was a bit premature with this decision, because there was still quite a bit of snow at the top. I wore trail running shoes with minimal traction and was a bit scared coming back down, but I was too stubborn to turn back without hitting the top. I was the first of my coworkers (that I know of) to summit the Wank for the season, and three weeks later others started to make the Wank their first summit of the season too.

      Shameless brag. 

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      I met two German women at the top that thought I was crazy for not having the right shoes or any trekking poles. The Wank is 5840ft with about 3500ft of elevation gain. I was surprised I hit the summit as easily as I did. It was a push, but I felt stronger than I expected. It was probably the waffles and coffee I splurged on for breakfast. Thanks to Alfred, I felt the push after my hike (and thanks to my breakfast choice) and was out of commission for a day or so, but these things are just a part of life with an autoimmune disease.

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      At the top of the Wank there is a hütte called the Wankhaus. It was closed when I went because I went before it was open for the season, so I’ll have to return sometime for a tea. I tried to hike the Wank again a few weeks later, but my body was not having it. I only made it 1/3 of the way up and had to turn back. I had a small pity party and then had to get over it. The hardest part about living with Sjogrens is listening to my body when it tells me “no.”

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      View from my bedroom, where I spend a good amount of time resting.

      Any movement is better than no movement, and I love how the German culture in Bavaria is very active. I love seeing the locals out walking the trails. Old, young, dogs, pointy ear squirrels – you name it. Regardless of age, people are out walking the flat and manageable trails and sometimes I need those reminders that it’s ok to not always climb UP a mountain, but walking around one is just as beneficial.

      Admittedly it can be hard not to compare my abilities now to my abilities before I was diagnosed with Sjogrens. Mentally I still want to run all the miles, and climb all the mountains, but physically I just don’t always have it in me. I feel lazy when I struggle, but my fatigue can be so bad it’s hard to put one foot in front of the other. When I push too hard my joints hurt, my back aches, my organs feel funny, my lungs struggle to get air in them, my skin breaks out in itchy rashes, and then I take days to recover.

      Alas, I will not quit I just have to moderate. Without the climbs, there are no amazing views. 

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      View of Munich from St. Peters Church after climbing 300 steps.

      All this to say life is Germany is moving along. I’d be lying if I said it were easy, and most days I struggle with my health, but I’m doing the best I can for now. Bavaria is beautiful, and I’d be remiss not to make the most of my time here. One day at a time!

      Q: Do you listen to your body when it tells you it needs to rest?

      | 20 Comments Tagged Brittanys Life Abroad, Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany, Hike, Hiking, Solo Hike, Travel Abroad
    • Salzburg, Austria – Pt.2

      Posted at 5:00 AM by Brittany, on April 23, 2019

      Before I went to Salzburg, I knew that the city was famous for some of the Sound of Music filming locations. I did some Google searching to find out my options to visit these locations, and settled on a three hour bike tour. I’m not normally one to take a formal tour, but when there are bikes included I can be convinced. The tour turned out to be one of the best decisions I had made all month. 

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      Most people take a bus tour, but I knew I wanted to ride a bike around Salzburg so this was the perfect activity for me. My group had eleven people consisting of mostly other Americans, some British folks, and a cute Australian guy. The tour took us to multiple filming locations, and through some of the outskirts of Salzburg. Getting out of the city center was so much fun, and the weather was absolute perfection.

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      Maria’s Abbey

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      The lake terrace scenes at the von Trapp’s family home were all shot at the baroque Leopoldskron Palace dating back to 1736.

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      The actual “16 going on 17” gazebo.

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      View of Untersberg Mountain – referenced in movie.

      While riding through the outskirts of the city, we had a stereo playing songs from the movie. The wind was slightly blowing, the sun was out, and I couldn’t slap the smile off my face if I’d tried. 

      One of my favorite filming locations, which I visited multiple times while in Salzburg, was the Mirabell Palace and Gardens. The gardens at the palace are said to be among some of the most beautiful gardens in the world. I visited the gardens the previous day, as well as later that evening for a concert.

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      My only regret of this tour, was not being able to visit Werfen, aka the picnic meadow where they sang “Do Re Mi.“ This town is about a 40 minute train ride outside of Salzburg, so I plan to return to walk the “Sound of Music Trail” INTO the Austrian alps. Overall this was such a fun way to see the city and to see some of the filming locations. I wish I had watched the movie the night before (my hostel shows the film every night at 8p) but I’m an old lady and need my sleep.

      After the bike tour I lost my morals and grabbed a Salzburg Pretzel, which was basically a pastry in the shape of a pretzel covered in chocolate. The pretzel was the size of my face…twice. It was intense. I chomped on my sins as I walked towards Mozarts Geburtshaus, aka Mozarts birthplace. It only made sense to stand in the room where Mozart was born, before listening to his music at a concert in Mirabell Palace later that evening.

      As regular readers know, I’ve made it a priority to see a classical concert in each new country I visit while living in Europe, and Salzburg was no exception.

       

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      “In this room Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was born on January 27, 1756.”

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      I stood in the birth room for a full five minutes soaking in the music playing through the speakers. It was a surreal moment to stand in this room. Regardless of whether you’re a fan of his music or not, Mozart was a huge influence on classical music. His talents will live on forever. Sorry, I think the sugar rush from the pretzel was seeping through my fingers as I typed that.

      After I visited Mozarts birthplace, I made sure to walk past the house the Mozart family moved to next. I didn’t feel the need to go inside, and I started to feel the effects of the pretzel and the Mozartkugel I had eaten and needed a small break from wandering. I headed back to my hostel for a bit to shower and change, and then it was time to visit the Mirabell Palace and Gardens again, but this time to go inside. I had booked a ticket for a Mozart concert and I got a front row seat.

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      The palace was built in 1606, and is used today for concerts and weddings. The room where the concert was held is full of gold and marble, I can see why people want to get married there. The palace staircase felt like a scene from Titanic, and every detail was immaculate. The musicians were amazing, and they all looked so young.

      I’m constantly in awe of those who can play a musical instrument. I played the clarinet for a few years when I was in school, but couldn’t play a song if my life depended on it today (except for hot cross buns, forever for the HCB.) I’d always wanted to learn piano, but never made the time for it. I’m a sucker for piano, and my future husband will not only be able to build me a house in a flannel with a beard, he will also play the piano.

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      I left the next morning around 10am. I would have stayed a bit longer, but the weather turned crummy and I felt I’d seen all I needed for this trip. Plus the longer I stay places the longer I’m off track with my eating and start to feel like I’ve been hit by a train. I had a great last minute trip to Salzburg, and am happy I live so close to such amazing cities full of history.

      Q: Are you a Sound of Music fan?

      brittany

      | 28 Comments Tagged Austria, Bike, Brittanys Life Abroad, Mozart, Salzburg, Sound of Music, Travel, Travel Abroad
    • Salzburg, Austria – Pt. 1

      Posted at 5:00 AM by Brittany, on April 17, 2019

      Last week I was lucky enough to snag another three day weekend. If it hasn’t become obvious to those of you who regularly read my blog, I have a bit of an addiction to traveling. Sometimes I need to take it down a notch and remember to appreciate the trip I just went on before trying to jump into another one. Living in Europe makes that difficult! I decided to go to Salzburg for a couple days because it’s only about a 3.5hr train ride away.

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      I actually ended up deciding the day of that I wanted to go, and booked my train and hostel in a matter of minutes. I had looked up options a few days prior, but didn’t pull the trigger until an hour before I was to catch the train. Sometimes last minute decisions are the best. I arrived in Salzburg around 3pm, which gave me enough daylight to get acclimated to the city for a few hours.

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      I dedicated my first afternoon to wandering the city, and the Hohensalzburg Fortress. The Fortress was built in 1077 and is the largest fully preserved castle in Central Europe. To access the fortress you can walk up a relatively large hill, or you can ride up in a Funicular. I’m always down for a walk, and I’m too cheap to pay for the easy way, so I walked up the hill and earned my view. The museum was closed when I visited, which I was more than ok with, so I only had to pay 4 euro to walk around the grounds.

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      The fortress was huge, and I spent about an hour walking around and appreciating the views. I can’t help but wonder what it was like living in castles like this when they were actively used by European royalty. I also wonder what the view was like back then. The view now is amazing, and provides an arial shot of the Salzburg Cathedral. The view walking up to the fortress was great too, and each twist and turn provided a different angle of the city.

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      Salzburg Cathedral dome and towers in the middle/right.

      After I pretended I was Salzburg royalty I walked around the city for a while before it got dark. Near the hill up to the fortress is a gate that leads into St. Peters Abbey and Cemetery. Never have I ever seen a more beautiful cemetery in my life. It was small, but the effort the families put into each burial spot was amazing. This cemetery was the inspiration for one of the scenes in the Sound of Music, when the Trapp family fled through the cemetery to hide before fleeing to Switzerland.

      More on the Sound of Music filming locations later. 

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      Notice the dwelling in the wall of the cliff? Upper left.

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      Salzburg Cathedral dome in the back.

      The dwellings in the cliff wall apparently served as both hermitages and burial sites. I didn’t discover the dwelling was accessible until after I left. There are stairs leading up to the dwelling, and the entrance is found at the foot of Mozarts sisters grave. Yea, the Mozart. Honestly I’m super bummed I didn’t know about the stairs leading up, looks like I’ll have to return!

      From the cemetery I found my way to the Dom zu Salzburg, aka the Salzburg Cathedral. The large onion dome and two smaller towers in front of it are seen in a few of the above photos. The cathedral was destroyed and rebuilt multiple times by fires, but you’d never know by walking through the isles. It was beautiful inside, as are all European cathedrals. There is a lot of history inside the cathedral, but the one that resonated most with me was that Mozart was baptized in this cathedral.

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      Photo of a photo I was given for making a donation.

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      The rest of my first day in Salzburg was spent preparing for the following morning. Day one was a mere four hours in the city, but it was already off to a great start. I stayed at the YoHo Int. Youth Hostel, and it was very close to both the train station and the city center. I stayed in a four female dorm, and my first night there were three Koreans in the room with me. Thankfully they were very quiet, as I needed a good nights sleep for day two!

      ….to be continued!

      Q: Can you make last minute decisions for an adventure, or do you need everything planned prior?

      brittany

      | 22 Comments Tagged Austria, Brittanys Life Abroad, Europe, Salzburg, Travel, Travel Abroad
    • Prague, Czech Republic

      Posted at 5:00 AM by Brittany, on April 12, 2019

      I’ve been living in Germany for nearly three months now, and I have yet to take a trip where I had to actually request time off (those will come.) The beauty of proximity is that when I have three days off in a row thanks to the luck of the draw, I can go most anywhere within the surrounding countries for a last minute trip. This was the case for a visit to Prague at the beginning of last month, I had three days off and it just so happened my roommate and some friends were going to Prague.

      I booked my bus ticket a few nights before, snagged a spot in the hostel they were staying, and prepped myself for my first overnight bus ride. The best way to maximize travel time for trips like this is to take a night bus. We all worked our last shift before our extended weekends, and took a bus that evening. The bus left around 8pm, and arrived in Prague around 6am the next morning.

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      Arriving at 6am allowed for two full days in the city, which was a great amount of time to explore the highlights. We dropped off our bags at our hostel (we stayed at the Czech Inn) and ventured towards the city center. Our first stop was somewhat unexpected, but we walked passed a shop selling a treat that Prague is famous for (although these treats are not only in Prague.) I try my damndest to avoid all things gluten, grain, sugar, carb heavy and dairy, but I wanted to partake.

      I definitely payed for it later, but when in Prague! #effyouAlfred

      The treat is called a trdelník, which is basically a sugared ball of dough that is cooked by rolling it over a flame, and then can be stuffed with a myriad of things. I chose ice cream, because I’m a sucker for pain. It was an amazing 5 minutes of my life consuming this treat with a shot of espresso. These trdelník treats were everywhere, some stuffed with savory things like mac and cheese and roasted duck.

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      After a successful sugar rush, we walked around a farmers market of sorts on our way to the Astronomical Clock. This clock is the oldest working astronomical clock in Europe, and has been working for over 600 years. This was by far the coolest clock I’ve ever seen. So much detail went into the making of this medieval piece of history. Next to the clock is a beautiful cathedral called Church of Our Lady before Tyn. The church was built in the 14th century, and has two noticeably pointy towers.

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      After watching the clock go off, we headed towards the Charles Bridge. The bridge is just around the river bend from the Old Town Square where the clock is located. Prague is a very walker friendly city, and I felt like a local after the first day. It is said that egg yolks were mixed into the mortar to strengthen the construction of the bridge, what an interesting choice. The bridge began construction in 1357, and was finished in the 15th century.

      On the bridge there are many religious and historical statues and plaques, some of which have significance if you touch them. Apparently the hand rubbed plaques bring good luck, and will ensure your return to Prague. I touched multiple plaques just because…when in Prague. The views from the bridge are beautiful, and there were performers along the way that warmed my soul. I love me a good street performance.

      The photos below are from the bridge on two different days, one with overcast and one with sun.

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      Across the bridge leads to the Prague Castle, as well as our next destination. A trip to Prague would not be complete without a visit to the John Lennon Wall, a rainbow attraction of love and peace. After his murder on 8 December 1980, John Lennon became a pacifist hero for many young Czechs. 40 years after his death his memory continues to shine at this unique wall. I added my own contribution to the wall (which is apparently what people do) and wrote “love all beings” in an outline of a dog.

      My legacy of animal love will forever be in Prague. Unless someone paints over it. 

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      The Fab Four.

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      After getting our fix of love, we headed towards the castle. It turned out the castle was closed to the public this day, for a reason we never discovered. Thankfully we came back the next morning and were able to tour around the grounds. The castle itself, though HUGE, was underwhelming. What stole the show was surely St. Vitus Cathedral. Have I mentioned I LOVE the cathedrals in Europe!? The walk to the castle was lovely, and we stopped for a cuppa Joe, and a petta the puppa.

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      We ended our first day in Prague with a Thai foot massage…aka tiny fish eating away at all the dead skin on our calves and feet. I’ll spare you the photos, but rest assured this was a bizarre and amazing experience. I don’t think I’ll ever need to do it again, but…when in Prague! Day two consisted of visiting the castle, wandering more around the city, and capping off our trip with a Vivaldi concert.

      I am loving my tradition of finding a classical concert to attend each new country I visit.

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      This quick trip to Prague was a great way to see the city. Our bus back to Germany left around 11am the third morning, and we made it back home about 10 hours later. The bus rides aren’t quick, but they’re cheap. Usually the bus ride isn’t terrible, because there is so much to see along the way to or from. My only regret is not getting a second trdelník (I was in my head too much on this trip, something I’m always trying to learn from.)

      I withdrew around 1000 Czech Koruna, which was around 40 euro. Spending 100 koruna at a time was misleading, I often had to check my currency converter to see how much I was really spending. As with all my travels, I don’t seek out souvenirs unless they speak to me, and when wandering the farmers market area on day one I found my must have souvenir. The cost was 50 koruna, which was a little over $2. I’m really into art work from different countries, so this steam punk looking cat with the old town view in the background was everything I could have wanted out of a souvenir.

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      And just like that, I’d marked my eighth European country off my list.

      Q: What’s a must for you when you visit a new country?

      brittany

      | 18 Comments Tagged Charles Bridge, Czech Republic, Europe, Prague, Travel, Travel Abroad
    • Dachau Concentration Camp

      Posted at 5:00 AM by Brittany, on March 25, 2019

      There are few moments in my life that have touched me on such a deep level that words could not be formed, and breath was sucked from my lungs. Moments where emotions are felt so strongly that tears well up in my eyes and knots are felt in my throat. I had one of these sobering moments when visiting Dachau, the first concentration camp created in 1933 shortly after Adolf Hitler became Reich Chancellor.

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      “Work sets you free”

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      Front gate

      Despite the unfathomable events that took place behind this gate, I truly believe everyone needs to visit places like this. Not only to learn about the grotesque history that occurred in our world, but to put things into perspective. I sometimes get so wrapped up in my physical body, and the things I cannot do, that I forget to remember how blessed I am. Sadly, I believe the closed minded principals that fostered Dachau are all too relevant in the world today.

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      Detention bunker

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      Bunker

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      Bunker

      This camp served as a model for all later concentration camps and as a “school of violence” for the SS men under whose command it stood. In the twelve years of its existence over 200,000 people from all over Europe were imprisoned here and in the numerous subsidiary camps. 41,500 were murdered between the multiple camps. The conditions worsened as time went on, but on April 29 1945, American troops liberated the survivors.

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      One of many places where ashes were left.

      The current grounds of the camp have changed, but some buildings have been preserved and some replicas have been built to showcase what it was like back when the camp was in operation. Upon walking into the gate, you see the roll call square where prisoners were called every morning and night for punishment, and for work duty assignments. I took a left turn after entering the gate, heading towards to detention bunker first.

      The photos above and below show what it was like inside the bunker, the place where the most frequent punishments were held. Inside the bunker prisoners would be flogged, hung by their arms, kept in dark small spaces, or even executed. Walking the halls of this remaining bunker left a chill in my heart that I still carry with me today. I cannot even imagine.

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      Roll call ground

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      Bunker

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      Bunker

      From the bunker I found my way into the onsite museum, where I learned so much more about the camp. I discovered that on camp road, where the living barracks were located, there were nine medical buildings. The medical care was inadequate, but the most horrifying part about these buildings were the human medical experiments that went on. A former prisoner, Nico Rost recalls one of these medical barrack buildings:

      “This was the barrack the prisoners feared the most – the barrack of experiments, the realm of Doctor Rascher. Atrocities were committed here which surpassed all the other cruelties carried out in German concentration camps, SS doctors committed them on defenseless prisoners, abused them for their so-called medical experiments: here prisoners were placed in icy water until they froze, often for hours on end so as to identify the average time that elapsed when it no longer made any sense to search for men who had parachuted into the English Channel after being shot down. Bone transplants, phlegmon and hyperthermia experiments were carried out in these barracks, ending in agonizing death after horrific suffering.”

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      Camp road – the barracks were all lined on the sides. The buildings are no longer there.

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      One of the old barrack platforms

      The end of camp road now leads to religious memorials, which was a much needed reprieve before the final and hardest location I visited at Dachau. Up until this moment I had mostly kept my composure. My soul ached the entire day, but I completely lost it when I turned the corner and saw the crematorium. The ovens were in operation day and night, and by then end of 1944 the capacity was too high to cremate all the bodies. Upon liberating the camp in 1945, American soldiers discovered countless corpses piled up inside.

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      This photo hurts my heart.

      32,000 deaths were documented at Dachau, but there is an unknown number of unregistered deaths as well. Around the crematorium are gardens and a beautiful walkway. It was hard to see such beauty surrounding the place of death, but the commemorations and grave stones for those who died were beautiful. I lost my breath one last time after walking by a wall that was designated for execution. Prisoners would stand by the stone wall and wait to be shot, and the bullet marks are still visible today.

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      Dachau had a gas chamber, however it was not used for mass murder like some of the other camps. Prisoners did report that the SS would use the chambers for smaller executions by poison gas. The gas chamber was within the crematorium, and there were three different rooms prisoners would go through. A waiting room, and room to take off their clothing, and the gas chamber. Prisoners were under the impression they would be taking a shower.

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      Entrance to gas chamber, the word brausebad translates to shower.

      Writing this post stirs up all the same emotions I felt when I visited nearly three weeks ago. I went alone, and spent three hours touring the grounds. I took a train from my town into Munich, and from Munich it was about 20 minutes by another train and a bus to get to Dachau. It was really easy to find, and going in March meant there weren’t too many other people visiting. Despite my earlier comment of wanting people to see this place, I didn’t want to go at a time when it was overly crowded.

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      For as long as I can remember I’ve been intrigued by all things related to the holocaust. I still struggle to wrap my head around the fact that human beings were able to do this to other human beings. The indifference towards others was so strong I can’t help but wonder what the men thought and felt while acting out these horrifying punishments. Can one really feel nothing when torturing another? I’ll never understand.

      I hope to return to Dachau sometime while living here and take advantage of a guided tour to learn even more, but I’m glad my first time visiting was on my own terms and at my own pace. This is an experience I will never forget.

      Q: I talk to people that tell me they couldn’t handle visiting one of these camps, could you?

      brittany

      | 30 Comments Tagged Dachau, Germany, History, Holocaust
    • Fasching in Mittenwald

      Posted at 5:00 AM by Brittany, on March 14, 2019

      Every year before Lent, German speaking countries begin a period of religious celebrations called Fasching. Some areas in Germany and Switzerland call this Mardi Gras like carnival celebration something else like Fastnacht or Fastnet, but where I am living it’s called Fasching. This pre-lenten party begins on November 11, at 11:11 a.m. and finishes on Ash Wednesday. The hight of the celebrations happen the week of lent, and in this time the locals party hard and dress in costume.

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      There is a common costume theme among the locals similar to the photos above. Wild animals, witches, and creepy masks that resemble your great uncle Brad that no one really invites to Thanksgiving dinner anymore. According to the internet, these cultural costumes are said to drive out evil spirits of winter in preparation for spring, and to show the contrast between good and evil. The traditional theme has medieval roots giving the costumes their dark creepy vibes.

      Some people dress in typical Halloween like costumes of whatever they fancy, but my favorite were those that stuck to tradition. My town had a late night Fasching party at a restaurant, but my old lady bones wanted to sleep. I was stoked to discover that there was a small celebration a couple towns over from where I live in a town called Mittenwald. The Mittenwald Karneval started at 1 p.m. which is a time of day I can get behind.

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      This was the final day of celebration, and while it would have been fun to travel a bit further to Munich for a bigger celebration, I was glad I went to Mittenwald. There were lots of children running around in costumes hollering weird noises and whipping whips. The whipping was actually slightly terrifying and I cannot seem to find the significance of this. Apparently harassment is a thing during Fasching (playful harassment) because I was hit with a broom by a 4’5″ witch.

      I also saw kids pushing adults, adults poking at other adults with sticks, and of course beer. Plenty of beer.

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      Although I don’t drink, I enjoy being around those that do in Germany. Only if they’re locals though. Germans don’t get as obnoxious as Americans because it’s legal to drink in public here at all times of day. The bartenders serving shots and beer at this carnival celebration were taking shots with the customers, it was fun. I don’t know what I enjoyed more: watching the workers drink with customers, or watching elderly women taking shots out of mini ice cream cones.

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      As if the Fasching celebration wasn’t enough, the Marienplatz in Mittenwald is adorable. It’s small, but with the chaos of the carnival it was alive and booming. The music was traditional, and my friend and I grabbed a seat in the middle of all the action so I could enjoy some tea. Not just any tea, but a “this tea is warmed by a tea light candle” type of tea. It was bougie as hell, so I drank it with my pinkies up.

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      Of all the things I saw in Mittenwald, my favorite by far was the mountain directly behind the train station. As we walked off the train towards town, I happened to turn around and there she was. I love the look of snow on top of a mountain, the white really makes the contrast POP. No matter where we went, she was towering above it all.

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      This visit to Mittenwald was a short one, but I’ll be back to explore more of the small town eventually. Next year during the Fasching festivities I might be more inclined to stay out after dark, but for my first time I was glad to party with my kind of people. Aka small children and adults that own small children.

      If you happen to be in Germany the week of Lent I highly recommend going to a Fasching event. For those who want to read more about Fasching, this blog post has another first hand experience with a bit more history. Until next year Germany!

      Q: Would you rather go to a big event, or a smaller less touristy event?

      brittany

      | 10 Comments Tagged Fasching, Germany, Lent, Living Abroad, Mittenwald, Travel Abroad
    • Partnachklamm

      Posted at 5:00 AM by Brittany, on March 8, 2019

      I’ve become quite comfortable with public transportation around my small town area of Garmisch-Partenkirchen (GaPa), regardless of the language barrier. I know how to ask for an all day pass, I know where to get off if I am taking a train or another bus out of town, and I know how to get to some surrounding areas for exploration. Eventually I will invest in a bike because GaPa is a big biking town, but for now I explore by bus or by foot.

      One of my recent explorations was the Partnach Gorge, or Partnachklamm.

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      This gorge was a quick 15-20 minute bus ride from the back gate of where I live and easy to find from where the bus drops off. This made it easy to visit after a day of work. Going this time of year meant that I was able to see the gorge covered in ice and snow, and when I say covered I mean cooovveerrredd. Basically Elsa came in and got real angry. I have never seen ice like this in my life.

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      I tend to overheat when I hike, and I wasn’t sure how strenuous the walk to the gorge would be, so I underdressed. This ended up being an easy, mostly flat walk and I regretted my jacket of choice pretty quick. If it looks cold in these photos, it’s because it was COLD. The gorge is somewhat in a cave as well, so little to no sunlight hits the interior. Fitting for me to find a place where my exterior finally matches my interior.

      Joking…sort of. 

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      It costs 5 euro to walk through the gorge, and round trip its about a mile. Once you reach the other end however, there are endless trails to explore. My friend and I walked on one for about 45 minutes, but had to turn around because it was getting dark. I can’t wait for the summer months when the sun stays in the sky until 9. Naturally walking on the trails made my cold inside light a small fire of happiness.

      The irony of my life right now is that back home in Washington I don’t care for the snow. I typically avoid hiking in the winter months because I have slight PTSD after getting lost once due to snow. I also just don’t enjoy trekking through knee high snow, so I don’t. In Germany however, there is something magical about the snow. I guess it takes moving to Bavaria for me to appreciate the white blanket of death.

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      Walking to and from the gorge we passed by the Olympic Ski Jump, where the Winter Olympics were held in 1936. Next to the jump is a quaint restaurant called the OlympiaHaus, and they had delicious food! We sat at a communal table sandwiched between two German parties, and it was pure magic. I love getting away from Americans as often as I can, and sitting around Germans with their coffee and cake made me swoon.

      When I first moved to Germany I was intimidated and slightly anxious about living in a town where I don’t speak the language, but after living here for a month and a half I’m no longer phased. Thank goodness for that because it means I don’t mind exploring alone like I would back home. I look forward to seeing the gorge again in the warmer months, hiking the trails beyond the gorge, and gorging myself with food from OlympiaHaus again when the ice melts.

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      Q: What’s your favorite season for outdoor activities?

      brittany

      | 29 Comments Tagged Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany, Gorge, Hike, Partnachklamm
    • Venice, Italy – Pt. 2

      Posted at 5:00 AM by Brittany, on February 25, 2019

      After a grand nights rest I was ready to take on day two in Venice. I started the day early per usual, and the first plan for day two was to island hop. There are water taxis that take people all over the inner canals of Venice, but there are also water taxis that take people to the surrounding islands. For 20 euro you can buy an all day pass for these taxis and ride them as many times as you’d like.

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      The first island on the route is Murano island, which is a well known island for glass blowing. After a stop into the glass blowing room, a wander around the shops selling glass, and a quick walk around the island, it was time to head to island number two – Burano Island, which was my favorite of all the islands. Burano island is well known for all the colorful houses, and for its seafood.

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      Burano Island is a fishing town, and according to the Google, the houses were painted bright colors to help the fisherman out at sea find their way home on foggy days. Whatever the reason, I loved the pops of color. I spent the longest time on Burano Island of all the islands I visited, and ended up eating lunch at a small outdoor place right by the water. I got a bowl of fried goodness consisting of potatoes, crawfish, squid, calamari, sardines, and anchovies.

      The freshness was unparalleled. 

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      If you can only make it to one island on your visit to Venice, make it Burano. The colors, the quiet, the food, and the feeling of getting off the beaten path from the busy city center are well worth the taxi ride.

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      From Burano I headed to Torcello, then to Mazzorbo, and lastly made a stop in Treporti. These were small and didn’t have much to see. Torcello had a beautiful cathedral, otherwise I’d skip these islands (unless you have a day pass, then it’s a “why not” situation.) I found two island cats on this day, but only one of them let me love on him. The grand total for the day was six islands if I included Venice, and 13 miles walked.

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      Torcello

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      Murano

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      Torcello

      After island hopping for most of the day, it was time to head back to the main city center of Venice to prepare for the highlight of my trip. My first day in Venice while wandering I came across an old cathedral turned music hall called San Vidal, and it just so happened that a classical concerto would be playing both of the nights I was in Venice. I knew I had to go to one of the shows, so I planned to go my second night in the city.

      The performance was only 30 euro, for about an hour and a half of beautiful serenading. Every performer had their own chance leading the group, which was a beautiful way to recognize each musician. No one was the star, and everyone was a team. The music was beautiful, and I got goosebumps time and time again. I also had some nice eye candy with an Adrien Brody look alike, and as I said on my Instagram – I don’t want kids, but I’d have babies with that beautiful Italian man.

      Click the above link to my IG for a clip of their music. 

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      Fourth from the left. Swoon.

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      How I felt when they played.

      This was the perfect ending of my first trip to Venice, and the perfect birthday present to myself. I turned 30 the day after I returned to Germany, so I called this trip to Venice a birthday celebration. I knew I wanted to be in Europe for my dirty thirty, but I didn’t know where and I didn’t know how. It’s funny how the universe works when we manifest our desires. Nothing is impossible.

      I’ll never forget entering a new decade after my trip to Italy. My mom sent me some candles, and after all the splurging I did in EATaly, I shoved them into an apple and called it a day. I was a bit freaked out at the idea of leaving my 20’s behind, but I’m more ready to kick that decade to the curb. The second half of my 20’s were rough, so I’m ready to grab 30 by the horns.

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      If my first month living in Germany is any kind of indicator of how my 30’s will begin, I’d say I have a great decade ahead.

      Q: Do you like classical music?

      brittany

      | 23 Comments Tagged Birthday, Europe, Italy, Living Abroad, Travel Abroad, Venice
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    • BRITTANY- Self proclaimed minimalistic nomad striving to maintain a balanced, healthy life with good food, long hikes, deep connections, exploration, and lots of potatoes.
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