Kullaberg Reserve | Blissfulbritt

I don’t even know where to start with this post. This area of Sweden was unlike anything I have ever seen, and I likely will not see anything like it again. A few days before we were to depart for our mini adventure south, Derek had dinner with his cousins. One of them told him about a “local known” spot within the Kullaberg Reserve that had caused a lot of controversy over the years.

Naturally this was intriguing, and this was the main motivator behind Derek suggesting we abort our plan to go all the way south on one of our days and instead go visit the Kullaberg Reserve. I just wanted to see the coastal waters, so anything else for me was a bonus. I saw a photo of Nimis, where we planned to go after the lighthouse, but I didn’t quite grasp the magnitude of this place until I was standing in front of it.

Nimis, which is fittingly Latin for “too much“, is a maze like structure of driftwood built by a Swedish artist named Lars Vilks, and it is not easily reached. I had assumed this was something right off the trail, and while half of our mile long walk to Nimis from the car was on a man made trail, the other half split off the path and we had to follow yellow “N’s” painted onto trees.

This was not a dainty walk, it was a relatively steep drop down off the path.

I started off in good spirits. Google Maps told us it was a short walk and after the previous days of non stop activity my body was hopeful for a quick jaunt. My brain thought this was going to be one tower of driftwood, which would be cool to see, but nothing to bat my eyes at. Boy was I wrong. The trail starts off passing beautiful red and white buildings, and heads into the forest where the wind in the trees brought life to my soul.

The uncertainty of where we were going took the wind out of my sails pretty quickly. As I mentioned, this is not a well known area and it certainly is not advertised within the reserve. In fact, the construction of this maze structure began in 1980, was discovered by authorities in 1982, and was in a legal battle until 2004. The authorities wanted to tear down the structure (understandably so, it is within a nature reserve after all), but somehow Lars won the legal battle.

I don’t quite understand how this is possible, but there was a loophole of sorts where Lars was able to turn this plot of land into an independent nation named “Ladonia.” Today the structure is somewhat of a historic piece, and it seems to be one of those places people aren’t quite sure what to do with. The structure is made with 70 tons of driftwood, and while it was incredibly sturdy, there are certainly areas I can see to be unsafe.

Of course that did not stop us from walking inside.

Vilks is no longer alive, he was in a car accident in 2021 (the backstory on this is also controversial, and I fell down a Google rabbit hole), making Nimis all the more sought after by those who know of its existence. I’m glad I continued on the trail after loosing interest, because this was one of, if not the most unique things I have ever seen. This guy has a cool four minute video walking through the structure, with a little more history.

This day with the lighthouse (my previous post) and Nimis ended up being a wonderful introduction to the Kullaberg Reserve.

After gallivanting through Ladonia we made our way north a bit to Jönköping (another word that took me a bit to master, but I am now proficient), a city on the shores of Lake Vättern. This was our “halfway point” for our drive back to Dereks aunt and uncle’s place in Täby. For dinner I had salmon and potatoes (again), but I purchased sushi grade salmon from Norway and it was the best salmon I have ever had in my life.

I will forever dream about that salmon.

I had the most magical nights sleep in the Jönköping tiny house, and the following morning we walked along the lake for a while to shake out the legs before our drive back “home.” Our three day adventure south came and went quickly, as most adventures do, and I am thankful everything went smoothly.

*I got the magically lit bedroom, Derek slept in the loft.*

Our Swedish escapade had a few days left, and our last few days were spent relaxing with family, walking around locally, and eating delectable Swedish waffles within the presence of beautiful cows. Next Up: Small Town Sweden.

Q: Would you walk through Nimis?

When Derek and I were planning our Sweden trip, we only spent one afternoon together looking at a few ideas. I did some research on my own, but we mostly just wanted to get out of the country. We were also visiting his family, and I didn’t want to get too wild by throwing too many ideas at him. While we were planning the trip I suggested we drive to the southernmost tip to see some popular stone formations, and I also suggested in that same day we drive slightly north east to see the Kullaberg Reserve.

I mostly wanted to see Kullaberg, but I had already suggested the stones and I thought Derek was interested in them, so I said perhaps Kullaberg could be a bonus if we were feeling the extra drive. Fast forward to the night before we left for our three day adventure south, and per the input of Dereks aunt and cousin he suggests we skip the stones and go straight for Kullaberg.

I am so thankful we chose to change the plan, because this was my favorite spot of the entire trip.

I was enamored by these jagged rocks and the crashing waves from the sea. I could have sat here all day. We didn’t have a solid plan, but we knew there was a lighthouse at the very tip of the nature reserve, so this was our first destination. We ended up walking around the rocks for a while because I wanted to get closer and closer to the water. We walked down to a tiny lighthouse of sorts which provided a better view of the large lighthouse on the hill.

According to the Google, this is the largest, and brightest lighthouse in all of Scandinavia.

After wandering the rocks for a short while, I noticed far off in front of us it looked like an arrow was painted onto the rocks. I then saw what looked like a cave, and sure enough there were arrows guiding a rocky trail to a cliffside cave fully equipped with drippy walls and critters. We walked over to the cave just as a tour was arriving, so we sat and savored the view until they left.

This was a wonderful wrench in the moment because I loved having to sit and wait.

After our cave diving (rather my cave diving, Derek wouldn’t go inside), we made our way back up the rocky precipice and back to the car. This area reminded me of the Isle of Skye in Scotland, and perhaps that is why I loved it so much. I thoroughly enjoyed the hike we had done the day prior, but the Kullaberg Reserve felt so wild to me. It was quiet, there were little to no people around (other than the tour), and the waves showed no mercy to the rocks they crashed upon.

A beautiful adventure I shan’t soon forget. The second half of this day was spent exploring another area on the Kullaberg Reserve, unlike anything I have ever seen in my entire life. Next up: Nimis.

Q: Would you go into the cave? Full disclosure, I only went in enough to see the opening from the other side. Nothing gives me the willies more than a tight, dark space.